AMP isn't so powerful. Real problem is that this AMP has crazy high gain.
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Diy Beginners Guide
Last edited: 7/22/13
- Headphone ImpedanceLast edited: 8/18/12
Thanks to slwiser, Spidermeng and Woody469 for some of the pictures used in this video.
This is the first item that dragged me into the world of audiophile, having started as noob with this great cans I must say that Shure SE215 Special Edition is cans for everybody, all things...
below is a review of of the v-moda xs! check out my channel(like and subscribe) recently uploaded a review and comparison with the v-moda m100s
I've read a lot of diverging comments about these headphones and I think there is a problem. These are non-powered studio monitor headphones. They are not meant to have perfect sound quality, and...
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- Headphone Impedance
Review: ZERO 24 BIT/192KHz DAC/Headphone Amp/Pre-Amp - Page 618
Head-Fi's Best Sellers
I think that without soldering there isn't a reasonable solution. Try asking a friend or someone else, it's worth it!
You could use impedance adaptor, but the damping will be very poor then.
is there nothing I can do to the circuitry of the board, i.e. add a resistance cable on the cable that connects the dac to the amp? all of my friends are looking at my going 'wtf, how can your amp be too powerful for a 650' So i guess they won't be of much help :(
looks like my options are running out D:
I'm courious why your friends are so surprised ... HD650 are very sesnsitive.
You're suggesting adding resistance cable ... you would still need to do some soldering to solder the cable to somwhere or do you?
maybe that's because they don't have one lol.
resistance cables.. I don't know. Just a random thought, thinking of something like an 'interconnect' but with a resistor/resistance in the cable.
how about reducing the gain of the amp? is it possible?
Reducing the gain is exactly what I reffered you to few post later!
http://www.head-fi.org/t/575840/you-can-add-resistors-to-lower-the-volume-of-a-zero-dac-amp (first post on second page)
Bought an Zero 09 with usb for about a moth ago..
I got pop sounds after some time (10 hours), headset was then Sennheiser Hd 497. ( OPA 627 dual )
Now i bought genuine LT1361, ( single). Plugged it in, and the sound was great for about 1 hour, and now i got popping sounds all time listening to music.. Now my headset is upgraded to Bowers & Wilkins P5.
I dont know what to to with this.. I have tried optical as source too, but it is just the same popping sounds.
Does someone know? :/
Same problem with click/pops on a new computer:
OS Windows 7 64-bit -> MB Asus P8Z77-V (Realtek ALC892) -> SPDIF (coaxial or optic - no difference) -> Zero DAC
No problems with click/pops on a old computer:
OS Windows XP 32-bit -> MB Asus A8N-Sli (PCI) -> M-audio Revolution 5.1 -> SPDIF (coaxial) -> Zero DAC
No problems with click/pops on a new computer:
OS Windows 7 64-bit -> MB Asus P8Z77-V (Realtek ALC892) -> SPDIF (coaxial or optic - no difference) -> Edifier R2700
I'll try M-audio Revolution 5.1 -> Zero DAC with a new computer in the near future. I hope we find out who clicks / pops - Windows 7 or Realtek or Zero
So you mean that something is too hot to make clear sound?
what should i look after in the amp ? I hate that its not working popertly :(
I have tried it with a lot of sources, cd players, ps3, computers, with different opa amps, but it is the same on every source :-/ Different usb cables and different toslink cables, even tried it in a other house.
So i bought a new Dual BB627, it was quiet for about 6hours with that Amps (happy then :D), but now it popping almost all the time. It's sometimes quiet the first 10 minuets after it's turned on. But most often it crackle / popping just after turn on.
What is the problem? :)
- Review: ZERO 24 BIT/192KHz DAC/Headphone Amp/Pre-Amp
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