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Review: ZERO 24 BIT/192KHz DAC/Headphone Amp/Pre-Amp - Page 608

post #9106 of 9226
I need some help, i have the Zero DAC with the HDAM, LT1364, and upgraded volume pot from 2008, i didnt used for some time but i manage to buy a new motherboard for my pc and i have optical and coaxial on onboard sound, the problem is that i have sound only on the right side on my headphones, i tried the headphones directly to the card and they are working perfectly, i tried coaxial and optical connection to be sure is not the cables but still the same issue, i think my Zero DAC is broken and im noob, dont know anything about this, can you give me some advise, what can i try, im totally sure the problem is from Zero DAC because like i said i tried the headphones directly to the onboard card, i tried different cables, so the problem can be only from the Zero DAC.
post #9107 of 9226
I'd first check the 1/4" output jack inside. be sure it is solidly connected to the circuit board, and that the connections inside make good contact. Those jacks are pretty cheap.
post #9108 of 9226
Quote:
Originally Posted by oatmeal769 View Post
I'd first check the 1/4" output jack inside. be sure it is solidly connected to the circuit board, and that the connections inside make good contact. Those jacks are pretty cheap.
1/4 jack is the problem, the biggest problem now is how i changed it?
post #9109 of 9226
Unfortunately, it isn't just a quick swap out of a switchcraft. You will need to desolder it carefully from the board, and replace it with the exact same type of input. Take it with you to the electronics store to be sure, most of those guys are pretty helpful (unless you go to Radio Shack, in which case don't listen to anything they say...).

it is probably just a simple 3 conductor TRS with a switching ground, but I haven't looked at it.
The good news is that the whole repair shouldn't cost more than about $3.50, assuming you have basic soldering tools.
post #9110 of 9226
double post
post #9111 of 9226
I had a similar problem with my output jack. It actually had nothing to do with the solder connections. I would recommend trying some contact cleaner first before getting involved with swapping that thing. It has 8 tabs instead of pins and won't be much fun to replace. If it had a simple jack I would upgrade the thing but it's an annoying el cheapo.

I wasted about two hours thinking I screwed up my installation of a cheap attenuator because some oxidation on the jacks contacts were preventing right channel output. I even ordered the closest things I could find to replace the thing before I figured out the real problem. Luckily, they were only about $10 for 2 of them shipped.
post #9112 of 9226
The only problem im from Europe (Czech Republic), im thinking maybe LAWRENCE can send me a replacement part and i pay to him by paypal or something, ill try to send him a email.
post #9113 of 9226
Quote:
Originally Posted by crapback View Post
I had a similar problem with my output jack. It actually had nothing to do with the solder connections. I would recommend trying some contact cleaner first before getting involved with swapping that thing. It has 8 tabs instead of pins and won't be much fun to replace. If it had a simple jack I would upgrade the thing but it's an annoying el cheapo.

I wasted about two hours thinking I screwed up my installation of a cheap attenuator because some oxidation on the jacks contacts were preventing right channel output. I even ordered the closest things I could find to replace the thing before I figured out the real problem. Luckily, they were only about $10 for 2 of them shipped.
Do you think i can find something similar online somewhere?
post #9114 of 9226
This is the part I ordered. PC mount 1/4" jack Stereo 9 pin Fender amp 88-99 H507-A - eBay (item 180373875682 end time Nov-23-09 02:31:53 PST) It was not easy to find a replacement for the stock jack. I never did put one in though, as the contact cleaner took care of the problem. Try some of this stuff if you can first.
deoxit, great deals on Electronics, Musical Instruments on eBay!
post #9115 of 9226
i did some opamp rolling. i had started with LT1364 (dac) - LT1469 (amp), but the sound was bright and the treble was too harsh for me. after some combos, i settled on LT1469 - LT1361. it just sounded more balanced and the imaging was better.

this unit is a great place for audiophiles to start
post #9116 of 9226
Hi,

I stopped using my Zero( on year or so old) for several months, and wanted to try it again with a Hiface 192kHz USB to SPDIF converter (excellent value for money by the way)

Very nasty result : 16/44.1 works perfectly, but anything above fails (enormous distorsion) : 24/96 or 24/192 namely.

The same occurs if the digital message goes first through my Tact 2150, redirected to the Zero through the amp digital out...

Using my CI Audio VDA2 and a Trends PA10 headphone amp in place of the Zero with the same connections works perfectly well at all frequencies.

Any idea to solve this issue ???
post #9117 of 9226
By 'up-converting' the native stream outside the DAC, I think you are probably changing the code - i.e. the DAC can't read it. Solution would be not to use the adapter.
post #9118 of 9226
In fact I am NOT upconverting the stream : I was speaking of reading 24/96kHz or 24/192 kHz FLACs unmodified...
post #9119 of 9226
Hmmm... That's just weird. You'd think that if it was some kind of 'conversion' issue, it wouldn't do 16/44 either. I'm out of ideas.
post #9120 of 9226
As the same setup works with the CIAudio DAC (at least for 24/96, as it is not capable of 24/192), I would rather fear a hardware issue with the Zero...

I did try something else : send some 16/44.1 in the Tact RCS Preamp and output it upsampled 24/192 (the default output for the RCS) to the Zero: doesn't work either.
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