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Review: ZERO 24 BIT/192KHz DAC/Headphone Amp/Pre-Amp - Page 605

post #9061 of 9228
Well... I've sent my broken Zero to wsz0304, I'm waiting for the new one...
post #9062 of 9228
i swapped in a LT1364 for the DAC and LT1469s for the amp. it was really simple - though removing the chips is ridiculously hard. i bent a few pins on the original op-amps, but it's not like i'm going to switch back. let's see how the zero sounds now
post #9063 of 9228
I'm gonna get one on ebay with opa moon. Anything else I'm forgetting or looking over?

Also why do the pictures of the silver one not have a usb port?

Front (showing colors): http://i28.tinypic.com/msjtx.jpg
Back: http://i25.tinypic.com/29m6hd1.jpg
post #9064 of 9228
I believe there are two models available now one with USB DAC and the older one (Like I have) with just Optical and Coax Connectors for the DAC.
post #9065 of 9228

Zero DAC too bright with opa627!

Hi all,

I have a zero DAC which I use with a john shearne amp and usher s520 speakers. I enjoy the sound very much with headphones but I find it too bright with my speakers.

I did the capacitor snip mod a while ago before I bought these speakers and can't really remember how much of an effect it had. Does it significantly increase the treble output??

I know the opa627 is a very well regarded chip but is it considered bright? If so which alternatives would offer a smoother less bright sound to help tame the highs on my ushers?

Any help would be greatly appreciated!

thanks
post #9066 of 9228
I found the cap snip mod affect the trebles a lot.
post #9067 of 9228
I have limited soldering experience...if I wanted to replace the snipped capacitors (i lost the origionals) will any 22p rated capacitor do the job?

Sorry for my ignorance!

thanks
post #9068 of 9228
The OPA627 is very dark, if anything.
post #9069 of 9228
Hello,

I'm experiencing very loud intermittent clipping ('pop' sound) when turning the volume knob on my upgraded C-2C, both with music playing and without.

I received my C-2C in mid-July and used it then with my HD650 (300 Ohm impedance, 103dB/mW sensitivity). I can't recall if I had this problem then. However, since pairing the amp with my AD2000 (40 Ohm impedance, 102dB/mW), the problem has become more distinct.

I emailed Kingwa, and this was his reply:

Quote:
Dear Low,
C2C upgrade version apply the 23 steps switch for volume control, while turn the switch, it will bread the current switch then close the new switch, that time will has a "click" sound from headphone, but I test by Denon D5K and HD650, these "click" sound not loud , I can clear to hear the "click" but can not let me scare.
If your C2C "click" is loud to scare you, I think maybe either this reason, 1, input signal has high DC offset. 2, or your headphone very high sensitive, 3, or the 23 switch fault, 4, turn the volume too slow at every steps.
If you have any problems, let me know please.
Kingwa
1) I currently have my C-2C paired with the Zero DAC. I tried running the C-2C straight out of my iMac, and while the clicking noise was audible enough (not soft; moderate volume), it was not nearly as loud as when paired with the Zero, which could produce a loud 'pop' noise. However, I'd add that the input signal from the Zero is much higher than that of the iMac (ie. I have to turn the volume knob higher when running out of the iMac to get the same volume).
2) I doubt this is the reason, as the AD2000 has a lower sensitivity than the HD650.
3) Not sure.
4) Doubt so. The clipping occurs regardless of the speed at which the volume knob is turned.

I'm guessing (1) is the most plausible reason, but I thought I'd check if anyone else is experiencing the same issue? Have my headphones been damaged in anyway? They still sound okay to me, for now. If it is my Zero, does it mean it's faulty? What exactly is/causes high DC offset anyway?

Thanks.
post #9070 of 9228
I've had my Zero since around page 200 of this thread and have been enjoying it very much with my Denons (2000 model).

I'm in the market for 2.1 stereo speakers solely for music purposes (and some movie/tv use). I only have my laptop currently, which has a very mediocre audio output (quality and amplification). I was wondering whether it would be possible to use the Zero as the DAC and amp for normal computer speakers, or perhaps something even better? I would use a plug splitter to connect both the speakers and my phones at all times or just use a switch for this purpose.

Is this a viable idea? Does anyone have any experience with this?
Any recommendation welcome.
post #9071 of 9228
anyone who get this dac

REMEMBER to change your voltage to 110 is you're in the US. Got noise only until i switched it and possibly could have damaged the DAC.
post #9072 of 9228
It's a good idea to disconnect the headphone amp section of the zero if I'm not using it anymore?
How I can do that?
post #9073 of 9228
Quote:
Originally Posted by dario View Post
It's a good idea to disconnect the headphone amp section of the zero if I'm not using it anymore?
How I can do that?
press the pre-amp button.
post #9074 of 9228
Obviously I mean phisical disconnection of the board from the DAC board...
post #9075 of 9228
how the heck do i setup the zero for 24bit/192Khz playback?

1. Is it necessary?
2. Is bitperfect even necessary with windows 7/vista?
3. What is the best way to go about bitpefect playback if needed

*edit* It even says in the manual that the USB chip pcm2704 only supports up to 16bit/48khz so 24 bit playback is only possible through optical or coaxial?
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