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Review: ZERO 24 BIT/192KHz DAC/Headphone Amp/Pre-Amp - Page 58

post #856 of 9242
1/17/08 at 1:54pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Normality View Post
Well they say that the metal can versions of opamps generally have a less laidback sound compared to their DIP counterparts, along with a little bit more detail.

Personally for the Zero I'd go with the ceramic. Me, I ordered 2 of them so I can decide whether to use it in the Dac or in the Amp, i.e. DY2000 + LT1469 or the other way around. LT1469 + DY2000 is very tempting too, especially after Penchum's findings about the LT1469 used in the Dac.

The LT1469, btw, is said to be as clear as the OPA627 but with more of a neutral sound to it. While the LT1364 is more of a "live" sound.
I'll just get the ceramic then. Wheres the best place to order them? I live in the uk. Cheers.
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post #857 of 9242
1/17/08 at 3:04pm
no replies on email yet, are we scamed?
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post #858 of 9242
1/17/08 at 3:05pm
Which is supposed to be the best op amp out of the two, the LT1361 OR the LT 1364? I have tried both with the opa 627 and i think i prefer the 627 with the 1361.

Can anyone suggest an op amp to go with the 627 that has wide soundstage characteristics please.
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post #859 of 9242
1/17/08 at 3:06pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by davve View Post
no replies on email yet, are we scamed?
Did you pay via paypal or ebay? If so you should be ok to get your money back at least.
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post #860 of 9242
1/17/08 at 3:19pm
He replayed to me today and said that due to amount of order he couldn't reply to all. He will send an email to each when the parcel will be shipped. He also had a problem with transportation and only half of the stock arrived last days. The other half will arrive very soon ready to be shipped. That was Lawrence wrote to me today. I also was worried about not replying, but now I'm more patient.
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post #861 of 9242
1/17/08 at 4:19pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Normality View Post
There's nothing wrong with preferring the LT1361! Actually they're nearly the same thing; the LT1364 is even faster (but we're talking 800 vs. 1000V/us fast ) thus slightly livelier. For a less bright version belonging to the same series, you could try the LT1358 (600V/us).

In any event, I'd recommend the 1361 or 1358 in the amp, rather than the 1364 which is better for the Dac.

From a numerology perspective the LT1358 + LT1469 combination has much promise. Someone should try it to prove I'm right Maybe myself.

Btw, why exactly do you prefer the LT1361 in the amp with the OPA627 in the DAC?
I think it just sounded more open with more weight to the music, it could have been the music though. I have tried a few variations but i love the opa 627 in the dac. So would you say the 627 + LT1361 is the better set up?
Lawrence suggested for me to put two more 627's in the headphone and the dac. Apparently he thinks they will fit, its a tight squeeze in the headphone. Id have to bend some resistors down. What u think?
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post #862 of 9242
1/17/08 at 4:20pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by fault151 View Post
Yeh i didn't have to pay tax either.
...me either FWIW
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post #863 of 9242
1/17/08 at 4:50pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Normality View Post
Yup I also recall the LT1361 having more sense of weight.

Indeed OPA627 and LT1361 should sound great! I highly doubt you would get anything better with 4 more OPA627 in the amp. The LT1361 is a clearer sounding opamp than the OPA627, though the 627 has great naturalness and sense of body. Tonality wise, they should complement each other perfectly.



Btw, if you're feeding your Solo with the Zero, I'm not surprised that you prefer the OPA627. The Solo has the AD823 inside which is 'electrostaticy' a little like the LTs, so it could be too much


edit- at this point I'm thinking of trying LT1364 + LT1361.
Yeah i have the OPA627 in the dac and it does sound pretty nice with the solo. The LT1361 is in the headphone section of the zero at the minute. I have been doing most of the listening from the zero headphone amp and just using the solo to compare to.

I do really like the 627 and 1361. I must try a few more though.

Do you think it would be a good idea to try a few i'm my solo too?
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post #864 of 9242
1/17/08 at 4:52pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Normality View Post
Well they say that the metal can versions of opamps generally have a less laidback sound compared to their DIP counterparts, along with a little bit more detail.

Personally for the Zero I'd go with the ceramic. Me, I ordered 2 of them so I can decide whether to use it in the Dac or in the Amp, i.e. DY2000 + LT1469 or the other way around. LT1469 + DY2000 is very tempting too, especially after Penchum's findings about the LT1469 used in the Dac.

The LT1469, btw, is said to be as clear as the OPA627 but with more of a neutral sound to it. While the LT1364 is more of a "live" sound.
Hmm can anyone point me to some info on how to install a metal can in a two-row pin socket? I've got a couple of metal can LME49720s I haven't tried yet
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post #865 of 9242
1/17/08 at 4:58pm
Incidentally - I've done some more swapping - here are the results:

Starting point was the last combo I was fairly happy with - DAC board: LM4562, Headamp: LME49720

Swapped to

DY2000 in the DAC board: smoother, but didn't like it overall (less detail, lack of pace..)

Swapped to LT1364 in the Dac board: "hmm maybe...", without being able to compare back-to-back wasn't sure, but thought it sounded a bit dull especially in the mids..

Confirmed when I swapped back to the starting configuration: "wow huge improvement!"

Swapped the two over, i.e. LME49720 in the DAC, LM4562 in the headamp: sounded very similar to the other way round/couldn't really say if there was any difference to be honest, but somehow got the impression I liked it back the other way a little more, not really sure why... So for anyone interested... out of the op-amps I have to play with, I would say DAC board: LM4562, Headamp: LME49720 is definitely the best combo so far for my RS1

Sounds almost better than the Total Bithead now - I would say the Zero's noticeably more detailed, but still loses on warmth and/or 'musicality': changed music to some progressive trance type stuff - say the track by Vibrasphere - Sweet September (Perfect Stranger Remix) - the Bithead has this bubbling rumbling-tumbling-bass thing going on, which the Zero kind of lacks at the moment (though as I say it sort of/almost makes up for it by having slightly more detail) - that could well change with burn-in (which if I'm honest I don't really believe in until I hear it for myself ), though I'm pretty keen to try some other op-amps - maybe even those they use in the Bithead (think they're those famous Burr Brown 627s!) and I really need to get my hands on those 797s that got lost in the post )
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post #866 of 9242
1/17/08 at 5:04pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Normality View Post
For sure! I'd try the LME49720 instantly. Also the LT1361 possibly, but I'm not entirely sure that the Solo accepts bipolar opamp with its input bias current level. If the Solo can accept the NE5532, then it surely accepts the LT1361 too.

In any event, the LT1361 is like a direct upgrade on the AD823.
Im not sure if it is or not? Will it damage the amp if i try one out that it doesn't accept? I haven't got any of the LME49720. I might get hold of some. If i put the LT1361 in the solo will it be ok?

Also, i think i have a damaged LT1028 when i put it in the headphone amp i got an almighty crack as i put the headphones in. There was not light on in the headphone amp either. It was definitely in properly, it just didn't work. Any ideas?
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post #867 of 9242
1/17/08 at 5:43pm
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by fault151 View Post
Im not sure if it is or not? Will it damage the amp if i try one out that it doesn't accept? I haven't got any of the LME49720. I might get hold of some. If i put the LT1361 in the solo will it be ok?

Also, i think i have a damaged LT1028 when i put it in the headphone amp i got an almighty crack as i put the headphones in. There was not light on in the headphone amp either. It was definitely in properly, it just didn't work. Any ideas?
It sounds like you got a bad chip. I does happen. On a side note, and everyone should be using universal precautions with Opamps:

Unplug the DAC before entering the insides. Ground yourself to the DAC chassis before touching the Opamps. If you can't get the Opamp out without touching other components, wait 10 minutes to let any capacitance drain down before attempting to change the Opamp. The grounding to chassis issue is the MOST important. Slight static charges can kill chips without your knowledge. It sucks too!!
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post #868 of 9242
1/17/08 at 5:46pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Penchum View Post
It sounds like you got a bad chip. I does happen. On a side note, and everyone should be using universal precautions with Opamps:

Unplug the DAC before entering the insides. Ground yourself to the DAC chassis before touching the Opamps. If you can't get the Opamp out without touching other components, wait 10 minutes to let any capacitance drain down before attempting to change the Opamp. The grounding to chassis issue is the MOST important. Slight static charges can kill chips without your knowledge. It sucks too!!
Yeh it's definitely faulty, i tried all the other and they are fine. I'll try get some more.
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post #869 of 9242
1/17/08 at 5:49pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Penchum View Post
It sounds like you got a bad chip. I does happen. On a side note, and everyone should be using universal precautions with Opamps:

Unplug the DAC before entering the insides. Ground yourself to the DAC chassis before touching the Opamps. If you can't get the Opamp out without touching other components, wait 10 minutes to let any capacitance drain down before attempting to change the Opamp. The grounding to chassis issue is the MOST important. Slight static charges can kill chips without your knowledge. It sucks too!!
LT1028 in the headamp? Penchum are you sure? i.e. isn't this the same mistake I made the other day? - seem to remember it was you (or maybe not - can't be fussed looking back through the thread ) who told me they're singles and so won't work, as somewhat surprisingly the headamp takes two duals? (don't think we've managed to establish the exact reason for this)

(or fault151: do you mean you had four of them on two browndogs running with the top open?)
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post #870 of 9242
1/17/08 at 5:50pm
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by dsmudger View Post
Incidentally - I've done some more swapping - here are the results:

Starting point was the last combo I was fairly happy with - DAC board: LM4562, Headamp: LME49720

Swapped to

DY2000 in the DAC board: smoother, but didn't like it overall (less detail, lack of pace..)

Swapped to LT1364 in the Dac board: "hmm maybe...", without being able to compare back-to-back wasn't sure, but thought it sounded a bit dull especially in the mids..

Confirmed when I swapped back to the starting configuration: "wow huge improvement!"

Swapped the two over, i.e. LME49720 in the DAC, LM4562 in the headamp: sounded very similar to the other way round/couldn't really say if there was any difference to be honest, but somehow got the impression I liked it back the other way a little more, not really sure why... So for anyone interested... out of the op-amps I have to play with, I would say DAC board: LM4562, Headamp: LME49720 is definitely the best combo so far for my RS1

Sounds almost better than the Total Bithead now - I would say the Zero's noticeably more detailed, but still loses on warmth and/or 'musicality': changed music to some progressive trance type stuff - say the track by Vibrasphere - Sweet September (Perfect Stranger Remix) - the Bithead has this bubbling rumbling-tumbling-bass thing going on, which the Zero kind of lacks at the moment (though as I say it sort of/almost makes up for it by having slightly more detail) - that could well change with burn-in (which if I'm honest I don't really believe in until I hear it for myself ), though I'm pretty keen to try some other op-amps - maybe even those they use in the Bithead (think they're those famous Burr Brown 627s!) and I really need to get my hands on those 797s that got lost in the post )
I forgot, what is your DAC feeding?
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