Review: ZERO 24 BIT/192KHz DAC/Headphone Amp/Pre-Amp - Page 534

putting the soundcard inside the zero!? how would the soundcard be connected to the zero then?wouldn't there still be an spdif connection?

The connection is still through SPDIF. I guess a better way would be using a USB receiver chip capable of output I2S, then route I2S directly to AD1852 - bypassing CS8416 altogether, it'll be a huge and risky mod though ...

haha im dumb
i didn't know the thing was a cover... i had to pull it out. oops

oh... there goes my hopes of having a USB zero.

It seems to me that this Zero DAC is in the same relative pricerange as an LD Mk2....If I am using my Hd580's, would it be more beneficial to purchase this Zero and use it as both a DAC and an amp? Or would the LD MK2's superiority as an amp surpass that utility?

I might end up buying both of them and using Zero as the source.

Just some opinions please.

Ok, here's the follow up regarding my problem I've been meaning to post but I've been busy, I bought multiple units with the intent of reselling. Two of them were fine, to recap the problem with the other two, after playing for a few minutes one channel started to degrade quickly and became distorted then would only play at a much lower volume as well. This was through the preamp as well as the HA so the problem seemed to be in the DAC section. wsz (the seller) suggested I try swapping the OPA627 from the good units in to the bad ones and they worked fine, I test ran them for over 12 hours trying all inputs and outputs and had no further problem. So it turns out I had bad OPA627 Opamp modules not really sure how that happens but whatever. Anyway I was sent replacements and all is good now.

So, if you've got a problem with one channel in particular being distorted or playing really quietly through both the pre- outs and the HA it's likely the DAC opamps are bad.

wsz on eBay has awesome communication and great customer service. He was prompt and as helpful as he could be in troubleshooting and solving the problem. He took care of the problem with no question as well, I would highly recommend him to anyone who has concerns about not getting a perfect unit.

LT1364 - I ordered samples from Linear Tech and popped them in. I'd listened to the stock HA section and it was Ok, with the LT1364s it got..different, in a better way I suppose. I didn't do any back and forth A/B but my first impression was that it opens up the sound as if you're in a bigger environment, if I didn't know better I'd say it was like a subtle Dolby effect or an EAX effect in games. It's not something I'd been used to in headphones so it sounded odd at first but I've gotten used to it and it's pretty nice. It doesn't actually change the source material, tightly mic'd or 'closed' recordings or don't have added reverb or anything like that but ones that are meant to have an open sound expand beyond what one would expect from headphones.

I also did the cap-cutting mod on the one I'm keeping, actually I unsoldered them because leaving leads sticking out of the board doesn't suit my anal-retentive style I sort of did it before listening much but the thought of filtering anything right at the output stage didn't sit well with me. Both my speaker system and headphones are sort of bright, or rather non-bass enhanced - NS-1000M speakers and Grados SR-80s. I can see how people with those phones might not like the mod but if so they might be better off with other phones instead. The LT1364s may help in smoothing things out a touch too but it's hard to tell. The next mod will be a better volume pot for sure, the stock one works OK but with low impedance phones like the Grados the volume difference between channels at very low levels is apparent. I'd actually like to try adding an impedance switch across the headphone out but that's for the mod thread.

Lengthy post, just figured I'd share in case anyone else is having a similar issue.

oops nvm

FOR PC USERS

I currently run my PC's optical output to a Zero DAC/AMP to Sennheiser HD-650 cans. The setup sounds pretty darn good. However, I may help a friend out by giving him the Zero and purchasing a new sound card - the HT Omega Claro Halo. The Halo has a built-in headphone amplifier and is supposed to be top-notch, but I wonder if it would sound better or worse than the Zero DAC/AMP I am using now.

Here's some Head-Fi discussion on the Halo.


Here's the product's homepage (lots of specs).

What do you think? The Zero cost a little under $200, the Halo costs a little over $200, and I would be helping out a friend if I do this. However, I do not want to replace the Zero with the Halo if the sound quality will suffer. I need some advice.

Thanks Head-Fi!
-Garret

I'd be cautious of replacing your Zero with an internal sound card unless you've heard it first. This card doesn't even look like it's shielded, meaning it will be susceptible to a lot of interference going on inside of the computer case.

I certainly wouldn't replace such an acclaimed unit as the Zero with an internal soundcard with no shielding that you haven't heard. Just my opinion though.

Hi,
I have an HT Omega Stryker. They make great SC's and their support is unsurpassed. I am a contributor to that thread also. I had the same questions. I went with the Zero and feel it was the very smart move now. There is a ton more flexibility to the Digital out of the soundcard to the zero setup. I also don't have to climb behind the computer to futz with my headphone cable.

With the zero, you have a great customizable DAC, a Good customizable Head amp. You can change opamps, you can go out the Preamp of the dac to an external Headamp. Looking at all the sound card has to do, how can that little board compare to an external dac and headamp?

I will say that a Claro SC to the zero is a great combo and probably where I will eventually go, although I probably won't see/hear any difference between it and the Stryker I have now.

The biggest deal is that with the Claro, you are done and locked in. I also think that the Headphones, like Sennheisers and others will never be driven properly from the Claro, so you will be limited with how "Well", you can drive Headphones. I have HD650's and the more I throw at them, the better they sound.

The good side of the Claro.... Your spending days are over!

[QUOTE
What do you think? The Zero cost a little under $200, the Halo costs a little over $200, and I would be helping out a friend if I do this. However, I do not want to replace the Zero with the Halo if the sound quality will suffer. I need some advice.

Thanks Head-Fi!
-Garret[/QUOTE]

Incidentally I had a chance to listen to both through Zero (un-moded) and Auzentech Meridian Sound card, at a friend's place (which I believe is one of the best med level sound card and had that some time back)

I dont have much idea about HT Omega Halo, but in compared to Claro, Meridian is far superior as it even allows opamp swap at both stages and just not the output stage.

I found the sound coming out of Meridian, close if not better than the unmoded Zero, in terms of seperation and dynamics, through his HD600, mind you, he has no graphic card (only onboard) and his hard disc is shieded in a seperate enclosure (two of the many factors that cause distortions in a PC).

All said and done, the Zero we know can be moded to ones taste and to a great level. which will easily surpass many soundcards including the Meridians.

It really depends how far one wants to go with the Zero mods. To me, standard Zero against Meridian, I found the latter tad better, but then I know the zero can easily surpass that with a few additions..

In any case, you have to listen and compare to make that choice..

I realize, this does not help as far as your question goes, but then you might look into the Meridians too, to my mind it is going to be tough for Halo to beat it..

[QUOTE
What do you think? The Zero cost a little under $200, the Halo costs a little over $200, and I would be helping out a friend if I do this. However, I do not want to replace the Zero with the Halo if the sound quality will suffer. I need some advice.

Thanks Head-Fi!
-Garret[/quote]

One more consideration, the Zero setup can be moved around to other sources. The SC is the SC, soup to nutz.

The card would be - IMO - broadly comparable to the stock Zero. Possibly slightly better, possibly slightly worse.

The real benefit of owning a Zero is how good it sounds with a little time and a few mods. I've got a modded Zero, and it would need to be a product of noticeably better sound quality for me to consider changing. Unfortunately, it would take much more money to have an appreciable increase in quality...

~Phewl.

Thanks Phewl. What mods would you say are the best bang-for-your-buck? I have the OPA627AU and LT1364 in the headphone amp, but where should I go from here?

A Moon HDAM for the DAC section. Make sure you ask for one with the extension leads.