Review: ZERO 24 BIT/192KHz DAC/Headphone Amp/Pre-Amp - Page 77

Just request samples from Linear Technology. Go to their website and look up the opamps in which you are interested.

I'll look into that, going to their website now

I just seem surprising that Lawrence is praising the LT1057 to such a great degree when Penchum just gave it a "good" rating. And it would cost me another set of shipping expenses plus possible VAT to get them seperately not from Lawrence. Oh well..

I think that I remember Penchum declaring his love for the LT1364 specifically somewhere through the first 127 pages though I can't seem to find it anymore.

Have anyone else tried the OPA627 / LT1364 combo other than Penchum? I'm considering to just take the default headphone opamps whatever they may be and then upgrading to the LT1364 later on.

And Penchum if you by some stroke of luck remember this combo in particular do speak up

I just ordered a Zero + OPA627 DAC for 241$ incl. shipping to Denmark. Wohoo I can't wait!

I figured that I might find the purchase of upgrade headphone opamps more satisfactory if I can actually hear the difference at some point so I just went with the default ones. My Senn HD600 just arrived today so within the next week I'll probably begin using them directly on my X-Fi, meaning that I'll notice the Zero amp difference as well. I realize it may take anywhere from a week to little over a month, but in either case I'm sure it'll be worth the wait

IIRC, the list isn't Lawrence list, it is an op-amp list for an entire different amp. He wrote that it was his "cheat" list, since it's not really his doing, nothing wrong with that though

It's not sure that the op-amps in that list will work well with the Zero, and as Penchum already have written, AD797 doesn't work well at all.

Here it is!
In front of me and burning in
It's even nicer than the photos!
I've been waiting for this zero to come for days and now... more waiting to burn in. Pfff... I will have deserved it !

So what can I say right now...
It's the 110/220V version.
It's connected to the coax s/pdif output of my PC (ASUS P5K motherboard), my HD-280pro plugged in the headphone output.

Power on: My first surprise, the leds: wow I will have to wear sunglasses
Coaxial input selected, Phone on: oups the blue leds intensity decreases.. Phone off: increases... Phone on again: decreases... Strange. Makes me wonder about voltage regulation... I'll see later.
Headphone on my head: 20% volume and I can hardly stand it... seems there is some spare power in there.
Music on pause: no noise! In fact I have to turn the knob till about 45 percent to start listening some electronic noise. Perfect! (It was one of my concerns)
I couldn't resist to compare with my PC output: for now zero has less punchy basses and foggy highs (Ok, I am not surprised because Penchum already repeated it so many times :IT HAS TO BURN IN )

So now burn baby, burn ! Eagles will help you for the next 5 days!

PS: For those who, like me, spent nights listening to Hotel California, don't hesitate, Eagles new (and probably last) album "Long Road Out Of Eden" is really a gem. (at least it makes me feel 30 years younger)

How would the ZERO perform with a Little Dot MKIII tube amplifier? I heard that the ZERO is warm as it is, so I wonder if combining it with an already warm tube amp is a good idea? My headphones are AKG K601's. Any ideas anyone?

PS Modding isn't really my cup of tea, so rolling opamps is something I'd rather not do.

EDIT: Maybe I can order the ZERO from BigLawHK (Lawrence) with the opamps rolled to my taste? Does anyone know if he supplies that service? I want detail but LM4562s seem to be too much?

I would if I could - that way I'd appreciate the Zero even more when it finally arrives. But the pump for my watercooling system just said "F U" and died on me a week back. Word of advice NEVER buy premade thermaltake liquid cooling systems, they suck. I assembled the perfect computer myself (Q6600@3ghz, 8800GTX 2xRaptorX150gb @ RAID0 etc.) but the LCS was it's achilles heel. I'm waiting for a replacement POS pump but it keeps getting postponed = no computer = no Call of Duty 4 Multiplayer gaming = No working X-Fi to test testdrive my HD600 ion

But seeing the kind of delivery times people are experienceing in general (3 weeks seem to be about average) I will probably have my computer up and running before the Zero arrives, so I will try them on ASAP!

But omg those LT1364 are cheap as dirt, but it's confusing with three versions - which one to buy if I decided?
Linkage for Linear Technology LT1364 OpAmp

Received both my Zero and Little Dot MKV today, thats 2 days to get the MKV (got the tracking number saturday) the Zero took a bit longer, but I'm happy


Running from my SoundBlaster Audigy 2 (I think?) though the external breakout box then optical into the Zero, and a pair of Linn black interconnects to the MKV.

I am listening to Metallica's ...And Justice for All at themo on my Equinox cabled HD650's, using Foobar 2000v.0.9.5

I think it really sound good, bass it pretty good, not to tight sadly, highs are there, but get a little lost, the mids a little lacking a little, needs some burn in.

Would a different DAC in the Zero help? or is it just burn in on the MKV?

I am also thinking of getting a Auzentech Prelude, would this negate the Zero?

More later, leaving it to burn in overnight.

Firstly I was going to suggest burning in ur HD600's while waiting on ur Zero but Penchum beat me to it.
Also saw you had the P5K and wondered what all you had, sorry to hear about ur H2Opump. You can't overclock the quad's 25% on air? Back that thing down and burn those cans in until your Zero comes, then fix ur pump or get a GOOD effecent air cooler. I know, you wish it was that easy,huh.
Stealing a line from some movie I can't think the name of... There ain't no water in computers!!!!

But seriously, you need to find a way to burn you cans in, otherwise your not gonna know if your coming or going between ur cans burning in, ur amp burning in, ur dac burning in.... swapping opamps around on top of it. Which leads me to something you need to make not of when swapping opamps. Just like the CPU, opamps are marked which way they go in. You'll see an indention on one end offset to one side, thats pin #1. Look at the originals before you remove them and make a drawing or take a pic of all of them for refference. I know it's been mentioned before, but not sure if you've seen it.