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markl Mod for Denon AH-D5000 (With Pics!) - Page 15

post #211 of 295
Can anyone else with an R10 comment on markl-modded D5k vs "the King" (maybe no longer so? )?? Fing?
post #212 of 295
Thread Starter 

I'm in a unique position to try out and modify several D5000s, you are not. I was premature in posting this thread-- yes all mods detailed here will vastly improve your D5000, but I am asking anyone considering these mods to WAIT until I've had the chance to fully explore every option. I will take all the risks so you don't have to.

When that happens, I will post a final thread with pics that details what you need to do to turn your stock D5000s into true giant killers.

post #213 of 295
what about the d2000?
post #214 of 295
markl, keep exploring and thanks for the effort.
Be prepare to be worship.

BTW are you incorporating options with other manufacturer pads (e.g. DX1000, etc...)?
post #215 of 295
That sounds great markl.
Like you said, there is still vibration apparent even after the mod. If you can make it even better - then I am anxious to see what else you think might help.
Good luck. And is it possible to rewire D2000 cable with D5000 cable? Is it something you can do yourself? Cause I am guessing you might have some extra laying around markl? If availabe, then can I buy some from you?0
Also, if you are recabling all of the D5000s you buy, then why dont you just try buying a D2000 since it is the same except for the cups. And you are pretty much making the benefits of wood obsolete by adding so much dynamat? Also, maybe you could just buy a D2000 anyway to compare levels of vibration of wooden vs plastic cup. Because you stated you could feel the vibration by placing your hands on the outside of the cups, but no one with the D2000 has stated the same (as far as i remember).
post #216 of 295
Thread Starter 
Hi Philimon,
Someone else claimed the old D5000 cable before the Head-Fi blackout, but I haven't heard from him since. If that doesn't happen, I'll PM you on it.

As for the D2000, meh, I like the look of the wood, and I don't want to take a chance on their being other unknown shortfalls of that phone vs. D5000.
post #217 of 295

I'm really close to buying a set and getting down and dirty with 'em. I do have a few questions first...

1. Is this a good "first mod"? It seems pretty basic.

2. I'd like to get a better feel for what you consider desirable in a set of cans, since I haven't heard the R10. Could you rate the following cans in order of preference (if you've heard them, of course)--Omega 2, HD650, K701, DT880 and GS-1000. These are the ones I own, so this would be really helpful.

3. What else are you considering for further mods?

4. How long do you think it will take to get your final version?

post #218 of 295
Thread Starter 
Hi earwicker7,

The mod is incredibly easy to do, anyone should be able to do it without too much trouble.

Of the headphones you listed, I've only spent quality time with the K701 and GS1000. I owned the HD580/600 for years, but have only heard the 650 in passing.

I would rate the GS1000 and K701 about equally in that they are both above-average performers, if not exactly setting me on fire. The 580/600 probably rate a notch lower for me than those others.

For me, the most crucial thing a phone has to do is get tone right. It's the most fundamental thing and sadly where most phones fall short. Most phones sound fake and "headphone-y". After that it's about resolution/focus/clarity, then soundstaging/air/imaging.

There are two other aftermarket cables I'm looking at having installed on a new D5000. I'm allergic to pure silver, so these will be largely copper cables. Best case scenario, I end up with 3 more or less identically mod-ed Denons, each with a different cable on it so i can decide which aftermarket cord is best.

I also want to experiment with placement of the Dynamat within the earcup and on the back of the driver to make sure I've got the right amount in the right places.
post #219 of 295
Originally Posted by markl View Post
For me, the most crucial thing a phone has to do is get tone right.
Have you listened to any electrostats? They seem to me to be very realistic with the exception of the bass response. If you could get that kind of resolution with the bass of a dynamic... I'm hoping this is what you're aiming for.

There's something I noticed on Amazon's page for this... they say there are holes in the enclosure to make them more like ported speakers. I don't see any holes in the wood; am I missing something?

Guess I'll find out soon... I couldn't pass up overnight shipping for $3.99!
post #220 of 295
what's a good amp under 800 for the D5000?
post #221 of 295

Worried about other shortfalls of the D2000? It is less than half the price of the D5000, and so you could potentially save yourself $400, that is if it turned out that there really were no shortfalls at all besides the lack of wood styling.

And thankyou. Please keep in touch about the D5000 cables.
post #222 of 295
I used a headamp GS-1 with great success. I also used the Stello HP-100 but it ws to warm sounding and needing more detail.
Right now I am using a Rudistor RPX-33 and is heavenly but double that price.
post #223 of 295
Markl... my cans should be here tomorrow, so I've got a last minute question.

If I'm understanding you correctly, you believe the driver is the highpoint of the cans and the enclosure is the lowpoint. What I'm confused about is why it would be better to use the dynamat on the driver instead of the sponge in the enclosure. It would seem to be damping the wrong thing. I'm leaning towards doing the sponge thing, but I'm certainly open to the other if you really think it makes an improvement.


EDIT--Also, if I do the earpad mod where you taper the amount of cotton, do I still add the cut cup the same way, or is that altered at all?
post #224 of 295
Thread Starter 
Hi earwicker, I don't recommend the sponge anymore, put Dynamat on the inside of the earcup. Please ignore the first post in the thread and look at the pics a few pages back, that has the most recent list of mods I did.

I'm not sure I fully understand what you are asking, but you have to be VERY careful about how much Dynamat you put on the rear of the driver assembly. If you use any more than I show in my pics, it will be too much, and you will experience too much bass attenuation.

I also STRONGLY urge you not to put the full amount of Dynamat I ended up using in at first. Just put the minimum in that I showed earlier in the thread in the inside of the ear cup and on the rear of the driver assembly. Seal it up and take several listening sessions with it. Do not rush to judgement. Decide if that level of bass tightening is sufficient for you. If it is, you're done. If it's not, only then put the extra bits of Dynamat on that I show in the later photos. If you ar at all on the fence about it, you are best to stay put right there and DO NOT apply the extra bits. Why? Because if you do, and you decide there's too much bass attenuation, you really can't go back. There's a very thin paper-ish membrane on the rear of the driver assembly. If you decide to remove any Dynamat from it, you will end up ripping it off.

If it's at all possible, I would strongly recommend waiting until say mid-January when I have my other Denons and I can post a proper thread with what I thinks are the best mods, illustrated step by step.
post #225 of 295
Thread Starter 
EDIT--Also, if I do the earpad mod where you taper the amount of cotton, do I still add the cut cup the same way, or is that altered at all?
yes, with the taper mod, you will still need the cup, but you will need to get a 3" diameter cup, not the 2.5" one in the original mod.
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