A reviewer should be an independent source that verifies or disproves the claims of the manufacturer. He works for the readers, not the magazine or its advertisers. Back in the day, reviewers fiercely protected their independence from the advertising side of the publications they wrote for.
It's a sign of our times that independent voices have been chopped down to mere entertainment. I was reading in the paper about Dan Rather's lawsuit against CBS. Rather is a dirty clown compared to real journalists like Edward R. Murrow. Things like this make me ashamed of our culture. I demand more of the people whose job it is to bring us facts.