Originally Posted by wquiles
Keep us posted and please do show pictures once you have a chance. I am also wondering if the sanding marks can easily be buffed out?
I found some good info on polishing Acrylic. I'm sure FMT LW's could be polished out to shine like a new penny.
Scratch Removal: In the event that, after taking meticulous steps to prevent it, your fine piece of acrylic becomes scratched, HAVE NO FEAR. Fine scratches can be removed with a mild abrasive polish such as Novus #2, or Novus #3. Heavier scratches, such that you can feel with your fingernail, will require some elbow effort to remove with a bit of sanding and buffing. A series of grits (100,120, 220, 400, 600) followed by a buffing wheel and available buffing compound, will restore the luster of your acrylic!
Final polishing will give acrylic a high luster. Power-driven buffing tools are recommended without exception. Buffing wheels are available as attachments for electric drills.
A good buffing wheel for acrylic consists of layers of 3/16" carbonized felt, or layers of unbleached muslin laid together to form a wheel. Solidly stitched wheels should be avoided.
The wheel should reach a surface speed of at least 1200 feet per minute. Speeds of up to 4000 feet per minute are useful for acrylic.
Acrylic should be polished using a commercial buffing compound of the type used for silver or brass, or you can use a non- silicone car polish that has no cleaning solvents in it.
First, however, tallow should be applied to the wheel as a base for the buffing compound. Just touch the tallow stick to the spinning wheel, and then quickly apply the buffing compound.
To polish, move the piece back and forth across the buffing wheel. Be careful not to apply too much pressure. Keep the work constantly moving to prevent heat buildup.