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Cardas Myrtle Wood Blocks - Page 3

post #31 of 195
9/29/07 at 11:41am
I have entire drawer of footer tweaks, have tried many designs over last 20 yrs. For the Myrtle blocks they should contact gear case not under existing feet, I would use only 3 since weight support not an issue and this gives you even stable mount platform.

There is guy at Audiogon tweak section that makes/sells his own Myrtle blocks for cheaper price........without the Cardas logo.

Personally I do not use the Myrtle blocks in my systems, but they are simple and easy. I currently use Herbies 1" Tenderfeet and Isocup footers and Mapleshade Brass cones with Maple platforms.

In the past I found the bearing designs like Aurios and Rollerblock very effective buy a real hassle and heavy cables can mess them up, so to simplify I quit using them.
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post #32 of 195
9/29/07 at 1:20pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by nick20 View Post
How much did you pay for the pod/cone combo?

The myrtle wood blocks are about $7 a block, which isn't very expensive, of course you have to buy 6, which allows you to use 3 per component, but nonetheless, $7 a piece is very in-expensive IMO.

I have also seen the cork/rubber blocks you mentioned too.. I think I'll pick up these instead:

http://www.dedicatedaudio.com/inc/sdetail/2650

and maybe the Cardas blocks, and see what difference I can tell, if any.
I think I paid $12.00 per pod/cone (so that would be $36.00 per component if three are used). I misunderstood the price of the Myrtle blocks, and agree that $7.00 per block is quite reasonable, especially given the nice aesthetics of the finished product.
The article from Stereophile was interesting too, and has me wanting to try some Myrtle blocks myself.
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post #33 of 195
9/29/07 at 4:42pm
I would not use cardas block unless you have a good rack; cardas block transmits vibrations both ways, so bad rack means vibration up into the component; and that just defeats the purpose of the block.
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post #34 of 195
9/30/07 at 4:00am
vcoheda, have you placed the Apache on top of the Meridian, or next to it? I've read reports that weighting down CD players can be just as effective a vibration isolation method as isolator feet or blocks, was wondering if you've tried it. Heavy books can work if the Apache isn't heavy enough, they seem to be a common method.
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post #35 of 195
10/1/07 at 1:48am
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Asr View Post
vcoheda, have you placed the Apache on top of the Meridian, or next to it? I've read reports that weighting down CD players can be just as effective a vibration isolation method as isolator feet or blocks, was wondering if you've tried it. Heavy books can work if the Apache isn't heavy enough, they seem to be a common method.
my apache power supply and amp sit atop my G08 - maybe that is isolation in itself. i tried the cardas blocks under the G08 with and without the apache components on top. couldn't detect any difference.
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post #36 of 195
10/1/07 at 9:05pm
Hrmm, I guess the Meridian is already optimally designed to counter vibration then. Interesting to learn that the blocks had the most effect under the Apache's PSU, I guess there really is some credit to the theory that stabilizing power transformers can result in better sound.
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post #37 of 195
10/12/07 at 5:01pm
Thread Starter 
EDIT: i was wrong about the G08. the bottom is covered in a different kind of material than the top, but it is not rubber. it is hard kind of plastic. only the corners have the rubber protrusions. also, i experimented more with the blocks and actually do think they make a subtle difference under the G08 - but i noticed that placement is key. before i was using two blocks in back an one front. after playing around with the player, it is clear that the front end is heavier than the back end. so i now use two blocks up front and one back and i think this combination has a beneficial effect - although it is not as apparent as using the blocks under the Apache power supply. to be safe, it is probably easier to use four blocks under all pieces of equipment. i may buy some more just for this purpose.
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post #38 of 195
10/12/07 at 5:58pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by vcoheda View Post
i tried the cardas blocks again under my Meridian G08 and did not notice any difference. i found this odd, because site after site people recommend using isolation components under the CD player, because of a noticeable effect. however, when i was taking another look at the G08, i noticed that the entire bottom is covered in a layer of rubber material which then protrudes at the corners to form feet. i think this is the reason the blocks do not work - i.e., there is already isolation there.

not sure why i didn't notice this before, but it is a semi-heavy player and i do not find myself lifting it up at such an angle as to see clearly the entire bottom half. from what i have read and my experience with them under my Apache, i do think it is likely that the cardas blocks will have a positive effect on other CD players.

I went ahead and ordered a 6-pack of the small blocks.

I think your CDP's of much better quality, right? And probably uses better isolation/dampening material.


My next cheap "tweak" is going to be add some Dynamat dampening material inside my CDP, because of some vibrations I can feel with my hand applying pressure to the CD tray. I found some of these stuff for $12 online, and retails for $40 in stores.







-Nick
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post #39 of 195
10/16/07 at 6:22pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by vcoheda View Post
i tried the cardas blocks again under my Meridian G08 and did not notice any difference. i found this odd, because site after site people recommend using isolation components under the CD player, because of a noticeable effect. however, when i was taking another look at the G08, i noticed that the entire bottom is covered in a layer of rubber material which then protrudes at the corners to form feet. i think this is the reason the blocks do not work - i.e., there is already isolation there.

not sure why i didn't notice this before, but it is a semi-heavy player and i do not find myself lifting it up at such an angle as to see clearly the entire bottom half. from what i have read and my experience with them under my Apache, i do think it is likely that the cardas blocks will have a positive effect on other CD players.
i've had really excellent results with my myrtle blocks under all compenents that are in the speaker/hi-fi chain, except my TT - i prefer my FIM iso-bearings. i have a Salamander rack with shelves made of mdf. the blocks clean up the bass quite a bit, including overall speed and transient detail throughout the other registers - the music just flows better.

these tweaks fall in the YMMV category. the myrtle blocks are cheap enough to suck it and see. an excellent VFM tweak in my hi-fi.

PACE
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post #40 of 195
10/16/07 at 10:12pm
Silly question for Myrtle block users.

How are you supposed to orientate the blocks under the equipment? Is it with the Cardas logo facing upwards or facing forwards?

Thanks.
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post #41 of 195
10/16/07 at 10:17pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tbln View Post
Questions for Myrtle block users.

How are you supposed to orientate the blocks under the equipment? Is it with the Cardas logo facing upwards or facing forwards?

Good question. I just received my 6 blocks today, and had the same question.

I don't think there is a right or wrong answer however, you may want to experiment with them.

This is how I have them; and this is also what I was told was the "proper" way.





"The Cardas logo facing you..."




Hope this helps..


-Nick
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post #42 of 195
10/16/07 at 10:45pm
Thread Starter 
the logo (i believe) serves two purposes - one is decorative and the second (more importantly) is to mark the alignment of the wood. i read that when using wooden isolation blocks, the grain of the wood should all run in the same direction.

also, if you using 3 blocks, you will use a pyramid formation - 2 in the back and 1 in the front. this formation could be reversed depending on the where the weight of the component falls - the heavier part is where the 2 blocks should be.
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post #43 of 195
10/17/07 at 12:18am


mine are the lower right with a single notch. Cardas makes these for Ayre with their own logo. the notch is to lift/secure cables if one so chooses to use these for that purpose - i do not.

per the dealer i bought them from, it doesn't matter which way they are oriented, just make sure that you are consistant with orientation, and place 2 of them under the heavier side of the component.

PACE
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post #44 of 195
10/17/07 at 12:20am
Quote:
Originally Posted by fishski13 View Post


mine are the lower right with a single notch. Cardas makes these for Ayre with their own logo. the notch is to lift/secure cables if one so chooses to use these for that purpose - i do not.

per the dealer i bought them from, it doesn't matter which way they are oriented, just make sure that you are consistant with orientation, and place 2 of them under the heavier side of the component.

PACE

Just out of curiosity, these are the same price as the Cardas blocks, correct? From the places I found both the Ayre and Cardas blocks, they were consistent with pricing.

Is that true on your end? Mind me asking how much you paid for yours?





-Nick
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post #45 of 195
10/17/07 at 12:31am
Quote:
Originally Posted by nick20 View Post
Just out of curiosity, these are the same price as the Cardas blocks, correct? From the places I found both the Ayre and Cardas blocks, they were consistent with pricing.

Is that true on your end? Mind me asking how much you paid for yours?





-Nick
i think i paid $7 or $7.50 a piece + tax.

the dealer i bought them from swears by these blocks and sells mdf Salamander and Sanus racks, placing them under every piece of electronics. they really work well with my Salamander rack.

PACE
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