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Flashlight-Fi (LED & Conventional) - Page 53

post #781 of 804

Heh, some people had to wait over a year.

post #782 of 804

Which brand is the most reliable ?  I think one of my flashlights was destroyed by heat.  

post #783 of 804

I use a lenslight as my main flashlight and a surefire e1b as my well, backup lol 

 

I like rechargable cr123, much easier on the wallet :D 

post #784 of 804
Quote:
Originally Posted by Audio-Omega View Post

Which brand is the most reliable ?  I think one of my flashlights was destroyed by heat.  


There's not really a single most reliable, but Surefire, HDS, McGizmo, Prometheus, Malkoff, etc are well-known for their reliability. Stick to brands that don't overdrive their parts. Simple features, thermal regulation, and potting of the electronics also helps.

post #785 of 804

I hope rechargeable CR123 3.7v won't ruin my Surefire Fury.  biggrin.gif

post #786 of 804
Quote:
Originally Posted by Audio-Omega View Post

I hope rechargeable CR123 3.7v won't ruin my Surefire Fury.  biggrin.gif

 

Uhh two of those will for sure lol. One 17670 will result in lower output, but not by much and thats rechargeable.

post #787 of 804

Do you think Surefire EB1 Backup (200 lumen) could take 3.7v ?

post #788 of 804

Heat dissipation is a serious issue, for anyone who has tried to build homemade LED flashlights.  I use thermal epoxy to mount my LED's on aluminum heat sinks and use them bare to get better performance than a store-bought flashlight.  Does anyone have a better way of making homemade flashlights?

post #789 of 804

Also, I recommend using the lower color temperature LED's because even though their brightness and efficiency ratings are lower, yellowish light reveals more detail than bluish light.

post #790 of 804
Quote:
Originally Posted by Audio-Omega View Post

Do you think Surefire EB1 Backup (200 lumen) could take 3.7v ?

 

You won't have to use those, go order the Tenergy 3.0v li-ons :)

post #791 of 804

Thanks.  Amazon has them.  

post #792 of 804

I've been really pleased with Fenix flashlights. I have an LD25 and bought an E20 for my dad, both discontinued now though.

 

http://www.fenixlight.com/

post #793 of 804
Quote:
Originally Posted by charvak View Post

Heat dissipation is a serious issue, for anyone who has tried to build homemade LED flashlights.  I use thermal epoxy to mount my LED's on aluminum heat sinks and use them bare to get better performance than a store-bought flashlight.  Does anyone have a better way of making homemade flashlights?

I remember reading somewhere in the specs that thermal epoxy doesn't conduct heat as well as thermal paste. On the mag that I modified, I used thermal paste in the middle and applied some regular epoxy around the edges to fix the led. Since thermal paste can conduct some electricity if it's really thin, I used a mounted LED rather than a bare one.

post #794 of 804

I just ordered an EagleTac D25a Mini. I was going to get the click interface version, but after reading some comments and comparing the two, I think the simpler twisty control scheme will be better for my typical needs. That said, the titanium clicky version looks pretty nice.

post #795 of 804
Quote:
Originally Posted by EmptyTalk View Post

I just ordered an EagleTac D25a Mini. I was going to get the click interface version, but after reading some comments and comparing the two, I think the simpler twisty control scheme will be better for my typical needs. That said, the titanium clicky version looks pretty nice.

 

I have the D25C clicky with the XM-L2 and I was hesitant about the clicky interface at first, but I'm glad I went with the clicky. It works really well with the 2 mode groups, where you can turn the light directly on high or low depending on whether the head is loosened or not. 

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