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How To Create Your Own Board By Photo Etching
Last edited: 10/24/10
Build, Overall Usage: I have Sennheiser RS 130 for over 8 years now (and still lasting!) which says enough about their durability, and which is the most thing fascinating for me, I haven't...
Before I start my review, I would like to Thank CTC Audio for providing me with a review sample of T-Peos Baguette IEMs in exchange for my honest opinion. This IEM is available at...
At the time this review was written, the T-Peos Amadeus dual hybrid earphone was on sale for $79.00 USD on CTC Audio’s website. Here is a link to a listing of their product at the time of the...
I recently upgraded my 16GB version to 64GB for less than 200 bucks. I wanted to upgrade to the newer models, but I'm not going to waste my money on something that can play the same music for more...
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Post Your Photography Here #2 (new dial-up 800X600 friendly) - Page 710
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I'm not sure--I'm flattered that you're asking, though! I'll look into it.
(Click to see full size.)
I think I posted this in the Nikon thread back when I took it.
This is the Woo Audio WA7 Fireflies 24/192 USB DAC and tube amp.
Oh my holy Zeus!!!!!!!!!! Bolt my Ass..... where can i get it from Jude?
Thanks for the comments. This just a review photo so I didn't helicon it or anything. However, the back of the case and the top do not disappear into the background. I wonder if your monitor is a tad bright. Mine is calibrated to the printer I use and the printer shows the back and the front, however the back is fuzzy as I didn't helicon the thing. I've noticed at the print shop that a lot of digital prints look dark and I think it is because people's monitors are too bright. I would go so far as to say they are almost 2x too bright.
Ah yes, I was on my work screen which is a bit bright. Looking at it on my normal editing monitor the whole side of the case is there. I often forget how bright my work monitor is.
I know what camera Jude is using, I want to see his light set is.
Camera schmamera. Any camera can make a great photo, and as long as it isn't 1:1 or needs perfectly straight lines, a cheapo lens can do the trick. The only things that really matter in product photography are lights and a good support system. That's it. I've seen some very good product photography taken with point and shoots - as long as they could control the light. I reckoned Jude used a simply one light solution as I love that, but he's a king with directional work. The man is stacked.
EDIT: I was trying to agree with you - and reply to AHorseNamedJeff. Sorry.
Thank you, Rosmadi! There'd have been no such shot without you. (I took several more photos of it, which I'll post later.)
Unfortunately, I don't think this particular edition of the MOMENTUM is going to be widely available. According to the Sennheiser / Infiniti Red Bull Racing announcement, "This limited edition [Sennheiser MOMENTUM] will be available to the [Infiniti Red Bull Racing] teams and its very special guests."
Again, thanks for the nice comments!
I was definitely using flashes--two studio flashes with a soft box on each. At f/22 with no windows in the room, there essentially is no light without flashes. I used the two flashes because I wanted the light to wrap a bit, but I also wanted that center dark gradient on the headband to show the headband's curved shape more clearly, and to also help show the texture of the brushed metal.
The shot settings were: 1/200 shutter, f/22, ISO 100. The lens is the Nikon 105mm f/2.8 macro. The one shot from this set I posted so far was handheld. With the small-aperture flash capture and the vibration reduction mechanism in the lens, I certainly wasn't shooting at 1/200 for reasons of camera shake. I just metered the lights, and had everything dialed in, and then used different shutter settings to tweak exposure from there--1/200 was just where I ended up for the look I was after in this shot (given all the other settings).
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