Looks interesting but my next home amp for next year wouldn't be cheaper than 3k for retail price if possible.
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How much do you weight the power cord from outlet? - Page 2
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Also, I prefer solid-state. (couldn't delete double post)
post #18 of 83
9/1/07 at 7:41pm
- Icarium
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Shrug those amps if you max it out with boutique parts can easily reach 3k+. But even at build prices of ~1600 for balanced they will equal the other solid states in the 3k price range (In fact the only ones I can think of are Rudistor and Headroom amps which aren't even fully discrete so the beta22/dynamight/dynafet will walk all over it). But up to you. All those listed are solid state.
post #19 of 83
9/1/07 at 7:55pm
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Power cord should be foremost on your upgrade list ahead of all interconnects and spkr/headphone cable. Power is 50% of sound, and garbage in, garbage out
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The garbage, if you have it, will be in, regardless of which power cord you use. The power cord do not remove any anomaly from the line at all, it is a passive device, you are mistaking a power conditioners with a power cord, it only lets flow what you feed in through, IMO...myabe a ferrite core will stop some RF or some EMI, but that is the best you will get from it...in a really nasty enviroment, not our cases in the majority of the situations...
Also regardless of how bad the AC is, later on the transformer reduces it to a usable value (or increases it for tube amps) and rectify to DC, that means that it makes it as flat as it could be, in that process all anomalies are reduced to almost cero and practically removed. Note that I say practically, what could remain is not procatical to be removed at all, as will not make any difference in the sound. But even though, some power supplies go even further and remove even those, which are impractical, as they are oversized and overdesigned for the task they will do...the power supply try to get as pure DC as you can, so no anomalies to spek off here...
post #20 of 83
9/1/07 at 8:17pm
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I can say with confidence that 1600$ amp + 2400$ cables gives better sound than 3000$ amp + 400$ cables in terms of hi-fi sound.
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If you really believe so, I do beleive that we are wasting our time in this thread, good luck....

Patrick, come here please and help this fellow headfier to find the way out...



Quote:
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Shrug those amps if you max it out with boutique parts can easily reach 3k+. But even at build prices of ~1600 for balanced they will equal the other solid states in the 3k price range (In fact the only ones I can think of are Rudistor and Headroom amps which aren't even fully discrete so the beta22/dynamight/dynafet will walk all over it). But up to you. All those listed are solid state.
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from your logic, then 0$ headphone with 3400$ amp should sound a glory...right? c'mon. There's limit for improving. It's not that cables or amps are more important to each other. Everthing has to be improved together. paying for both amp and cables at the same price range shouldn't sound like I value cables more than amp, right? And about rudistor, my friend used to have RP010B and he sold it away because it doesn't give what he wants from the original source. Now he's demanding for my grace m902 and ask me if there's anything better.....strange?
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From your logic, so 0$ headphone with 3400$ amp will sound like heaven, right? C'mon. Spending money for amp and cables equally doesn't mean I valued cables more than amp. I showed that example because it's what I found from my experiments but doesn't mean I will use it. Anyway, I tried RP010B once from my friend machine and found it's very good amp. However, it changes music signature a lot and make sound like tubed-like amplifier. soft, sweet, too much compared to the source.
post #23 of 83
9/1/07 at 8:44pm
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from your logic, then 0$ headphone with 3400$ amp should sound a glory...right? c'mon. There's limit for improving. It's not that cables or amps are more important to each other. Everthing has to be improved together. paying for both amp and cables at the same price range shouldn't sound like I value cables more than amp, right? And about rudistor, my friend used to have RP010B and he sold it away because it doesn't give what he wants from the original source. Now he's demanding for my grace m902 and ask me if there's anything better.....strange?
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Quote:
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From your logic, so 0$ headphone with 3400$ amp will sound like heaven, right? C'mon. Spending money for amp and cables equally doesn't mean I valued cables more than amp. I showed that example because it's what I found from my experiments but doesn't mean I will use it. Anyway, I tried RP010B once from my friend machine and found it's very good amp. However, it changes music signature a lot and make sound like tubed-like amplifier. soft, sweet, too much compared to the source.
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If he likes other amps, that is fine with me, BTW that is why Ultrasone is using now the RPX33 in the shows, instead of the Grace 902, which IMO is a fine amp, but not at that level, the RPX33 is below of the RP010B in performance, so go and do your math...Something is wrong definitelly in that setup...IMHO...
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I tried refreshing the page but found no new post so I posted it again. Anyway, it's my friend's decision, not mine. For me, it's just that tone-balance of that amp doesn't suit me right even it sounds better than grace m902 in terms of hi-fi sound.
post #25 of 83
9/3/07 at 4:11am
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More people will walk the path of truth while the skeptics are left behind.
The electronics in my system matter the least and the tweaks matter the most. With the same tweaks, there is almost no difference in electronics.
Since power cords color the sound it doesn't matter how much you spend on them compared to the electronics. Because you keep the flavor your whole life. If you change the amp, you keep the flavor from the power cord, and the best part is that the power cord doesn't break.
I found that I get better sound from cheaper electronics when I use the same cables. Cary 303/300 ($4000) + Nordost Vishnu ($600) sounded worse than Benchmark DAC1 ($975) + Nordost Valhalla ($3000).
The problem with DAC1 was that it's "bright" which removes low-level detail, but the power cord smoothened it out so more detail was revealed, soundstage got huge as well. The Cary was already too smooth and adding more tweaks just made it smoother and more veiled. Without any tweaks Cary is better, but with the tweaks, DAC1 is better in every way.
The component that is the brightest from the beginning has more potential for low-level detail if you tweak it.
The electronics in my system matter the least and the tweaks matter the most. With the same tweaks, there is almost no difference in electronics.
Since power cords color the sound it doesn't matter how much you spend on them compared to the electronics. Because you keep the flavor your whole life. If you change the amp, you keep the flavor from the power cord, and the best part is that the power cord doesn't break.
I found that I get better sound from cheaper electronics when I use the same cables. Cary 303/300 ($4000) + Nordost Vishnu ($600) sounded worse than Benchmark DAC1 ($975) + Nordost Valhalla ($3000).
The problem with DAC1 was that it's "bright" which removes low-level detail, but the power cord smoothened it out so more detail was revealed, soundstage got huge as well. The Cary was already too smooth and adding more tweaks just made it smoother and more veiled. Without any tweaks Cary is better, but with the tweaks, DAC1 is better in every way.
The component that is the brightest from the beginning has more potential for low-level detail if you tweak it.
post #26 of 83
9/3/07 at 6:13am
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Guys, the power comes into your house via cable that costs about $5 a metre, and the cable to your power outlet is about $2 a metre and is terminated by a guy who earns $60 an hour and couldn't care less about audio terminations of power cables (if such a thing existed).
What is it that you think the $50, $500 or $500 power cable is putting back in?
What is it that you think the $50, $500 or $500 power cable is putting back in?
post #27 of 83
9/3/07 at 6:51am
Quote:
| The electronics in my system matter the least and the tweaks matter the most. |

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Because we don't know everything about power cord so we can't end up making such promising conclusion, right?
post #29 of 83
9/4/07 at 12:48am
I found that I improved the sound of both of my systems by about 35% by treating all aspects to power.
That is:
*clean and reattach earth stake
*clean breaker bars
*about 15 ferrites on all non-audio equipment
*3 chokes in parallel to audio system outlets
*1 RC network between audio circuit and breaker box
*unshielded 14awg or greater cables for pre and power amps
*shielded 14awg power cables on all digital equipment
*isolating transformer on front end equipment
*Oyaide and Furutech male AC plugs, IEC conectors and wall outlets
*ERS paper lining chassis, and a sheet below and above all digital equipment
That is:
*clean and reattach earth stake
*clean breaker bars
*about 15 ferrites on all non-audio equipment
*3 chokes in parallel to audio system outlets
*1 RC network between audio circuit and breaker box
*unshielded 14awg or greater cables for pre and power amps
*shielded 14awg power cables on all digital equipment
*isolating transformer on front end equipment
*Oyaide and Furutech male AC plugs, IEC conectors and wall outlets
*ERS paper lining chassis, and a sheet below and above all digital equipment
post #30 of 83
9/4/07 at 12:59am
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Quote:
|
I found that I improved the sound of both of my systems by about 35% by treating all aspects to power.
That is: *clean and reattach earth stake *clean breaker bars *about 15 ferrites on all non-audio equipment *3 chokes in parallel to audio system outlets *1 RC network between audio circuit and breaker box *unshielded 14awg or greater cables for pre and power amps *shielded 14awg power cables on all digital equipment *isolating transformer on front end equipment *Oyaide and Furutech male AC plugs, IEC conectors and wall outlets *ERS paper lining chassis, and a sheet below and above all digital equipment |
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