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knife-fi? - Page 10

post #136 of 1747

Is this a good combo?

Hey guys, I'm thinking of getting two knives, the Leatherman Skeletool and SOG Flash II. I figure I'll carry the Leatherman around on school campus, and since I'll be around a lot of technical equipment for film and media, it should be invaluable in the years to come.

Now, for the SOG, I plan to carry it around when I'm around the city; a more simplistic tool for either cutting things (hopefully not an attacker) or, God forbid, using the serrated part to help cut somebody out of a seat belt in an accident.

Does this sound like a great combo? Thanks guys, for all your insight!
post #137 of 1747
Quote:
Originally Posted by TheMarchingMule View Post
I figure I'll carry the Leatherman around on school campus, and since I'll be around a lot of technical equipment for film and media, it should be invaluable in the years to come.

Now, for the SOG, I plan to carry it around when I'm around the city; a more simplistic tool for either cutting things (hopefully not an attacker) or, God forbid, using the serrated part to help cut somebody out of a seat belt in an accident.

Does this sound like a great combo? Thanks guys, for all your insight!
Get the Skeletool CX instead of getting both. The SOG's blade length isn't much greater than the Skeletools (3.5" vs 3.1") and the CX variant would get you a partially serrated blade in a better steel. It also nets you a DLC coating on the tool itself which will do a great job of resisting the rust that occasionally plagues Leathermans. More than likely, it'll be good enough to do any knife related tasks you have and negate the need for a second knife.

Quote:
Originally Posted by M3NTAL
Why are there so many "tactical" knifes? Are people really going hand to hand that often in underground cage fights or something? Or are there certain animals that can only be killed while wrestling to the death with a knife? Kind of a joke, but seriously?
Fashion.
post #138 of 1747
Quote:
Originally Posted by marvin View Post
Get the Skeletool CX instead of getting both. The SOG's blade length isn't much greater than the Skeletools (3.5" vs 3.1") and the CX variant would get you a partially serrated blade in a better steel. It also nets you a DLC coating on the tool itself which will do a great job of resisting the rust that occasionally plagues Leathermans. More than likely, it'll be good enough to do any knife related tasks you have and negate the need for a second knife.
Sweet, that was my second (and arguably more sensible) plan.
post #139 of 1747
Here's a custom pocket knife I just sold on Bladeforums.













I have a plain one I carry everyday so I didn't need this any longer.


Mitch
post #140 of 1747
Beautiful custom Mitch,

I've carried the Bob Lum Chinese Folder from Spyderco for years. The action is too smooth. What a great knife.

Not my photo, but my blade is identical to the blue model.
post #141 of 1747
Well, I've just relegated the Gerber assisted-open folder back to the glove box of my car.

Twice in 2 weeks it has sprung open in my pocket, once in the left front and cut me when I reached into my pocket, and the other time was today in my right back pocket where it proceeded to cut a hole in a $30 pair of shorts and punch a 1/2" hole in the leather seat of my Subaru as I was sliding into the seat.

I am back to carrying my 4 year old Benchmade Griptillion (Mel Pardue) which is hooked in the back pocket opening (and a S&W 637 with lasergrips in the front pocket).
post #142 of 1747
Quote:
Originally Posted by HeadphoneAddict View Post
Well, I've just relegated the Gerber assisted-open folder back to the glove box of my car.

Twice in 2 weeks it has sprung open in my pocket, once in the left front and cut me when I reached into my pocket, and the other time was today in my right back pocket where it proceeded to cut a hole in a $30 pair of shorts and punch a 1/2" hole in the leather seat of my Subaru as I was sliding into the seat.

I am back to carrying my 4 year old Benchmade Griptillion (Mel Pardue) which is hooked in the back pocket opening (and a S&W 637 with lasergrips in the front pocket).
If you expressed your story to Gerber, I'm positive that they would repair or replace your knife. Tort litigation is something most organizations wish to minimize their exposure to.
post #143 of 1747
Quote:
Originally Posted by Usagi View Post
If you expressed your story to Gerber, I'm positive that they would repair or replace your knife. Tort litigation is something most organizations wish to minimize their exposure to.
Good idea, I'll contact them. I'm really ticked off about it the more I think about it.
post #144 of 1747
I really like my Ritter Mini-Griptilian. I keep it clipped to my pocket, tightly against the rightmost side of my pocket, tip up, with the blade against the edge of the pocket. A little extra insurance against accidental openings, even though the excellent axis lock is naturally sprung to stay closed.

-Ed
post #145 of 1747
Quote:
Originally Posted by Edwood View Post
I really like my Ritter Mini-Griptilian. I keep it clipped to my pocket, tightly against the rightmost side of my pocket, tip up, with the blade against the edge of the pocket. A little extra insurance against accidental openings, even though the excellent axis lock is naturally sprung to stay closed.

-Ed
Well my Benchmade Griptillian has never popped open on me in 4-5 years. I only switched to the Gerber when I lost my Griptillian for 1 day recently. With the Benchmade missing, having had the gerber in my car for 2-3 years I grabbed it as a backup, and liked the Gerber because it was easy to open left handed. Normally the Benchmade is in the right rear pocket, towards the front edge of the pocket.

If I carry it like you do, I have to find a new place to hang my bulky PDA phone, which I hang from the right rear corner of my front right pocket. I think with the Benchmade I'll be safe again.
post #146 of 1747
Got a skeletool for Fathers Day & like it a lot. It's my new jeans knife on weekends & it rides in my briefcase during the week.

For weekday everyday carry, I recently picked up a Browning Shadow that was on clearance at Sierra Trading Post -- It's a looker, with a damascus blade displayed against a single liner. It's not a custom, and the design is somewhat imperfect -- opening the blade requires some pressure, which presses against the liner edge, resulting in a nick on the blade. But it's pretty, and sharp, and small & light. I like it. Here are some pics:


post #147 of 1747
Does anyone use their knife for headphone recable work? Like working with canare? If so - could you tell me what model and how well it works with it?

I just picked up a blue mini-griptilian this weekend from Grand Prairie. I also tried out a Mini-presidio that I really liked, but was a little more pricey.
post #148 of 1747
I have to say it... this thread is awesome!
post #149 of 1747
Quote:
Originally Posted by M3NTAL View Post
Does anyone use their knife for headphone recable work? Like working with canare? If so - could you tell me what model and how well it works with it?
The Victorinox Swiss Army Knife Cyber models are the most useful here. Besides having the practical functionality (and non-aggrssiveness) of a Swiss Army knife, the Cyber models have a driver with multiple screwdriver/hex/torx bits that actually has some reach and works well. Amazon carries them if you want to see what they look like.
post #150 of 1747
Quote:
Originally Posted by M3NTAL View Post
Does anyone use their knife for headphone recable work? Like working with canare? If so - could you tell me what model and how well it works with it?

I just picked up a blue mini-griptilian this weekend from Grand Prairie. I also tried out a Mini-presidio that I really liked, but was a little more pricey.
Use the right tools. A set of tin snips and a wire stripper make things a lot easier than having to rely on only a knife.

Course, that isn't always possible. I've been doing a bit of hasty cable repair/rewire at work (faster than going through the shop) and my Leatherman Skeletool CX works pretty well at it, except for the stripping wires part. The serrations prevent me from choking up on the blade and stripping wire with the base of the blade, so I just use my EDC (Spyderco Stretch 2) for that. Non-CX Skeletool would also work. A quick ring around the the insulation where you want to strip and a bit of flexing will do the trick. The Stretch works well since the jimped choil lets you get a grip that's really close to the edge. The blade is thin enough to shave insulation off too.
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