THE DIY HEADPHONE STAND THREAD
Feb 10, 2013 at 11:33 AM Post #1,668 of 3,874
Quote:
It's the new stand for my DT880's.
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TrollDragon,
 
That's another beautiful piece!
 
Did you use a store-bought can to spray-on the lacquer, or do you have a spray gun set up?
 
Feb 10, 2013 at 12:28 PM Post #1,669 of 3,874
Quote:
Ah..crap..Im gunna cry if I gotta resand...I went from 220-400-1000-2000..Took me an hour and 30min. Gunna try and use the finer sandpaper maybe to remove it, if that wont work then ill have to re-do it maybe..


Before re-sanding you could try a bit of ScotchBrite or '0000' steel wool. Very gently buff off stuck dust particles. Another option if you are using an oil finish is to wet sand with the oil and 600 wet/dry sandpaper between coats.
 
For future reference, with wood there is no need to go that high in sandpaper grits. Especially before putting stain on. You only need to go really high with the top coats of finish. If you're getting splotchiness with the stain, sanding doesn't really cure that. I has to do with the orientation of the grain structure and absorption rates. Sanding sealer or grain sealer is your best bet for evening it out (before the stain is applied).
 
When I was doing custom cabinetry we never went above 220gr before passing off to the finisher. When I was doing custom furniture with exotic hardwoods 320gr was about max and with the oil 600gr wet/dry was all that was required to get an excellent finish.
 
Now if you're going for something like "piano black" with paint then you'll be using finer and finer grits (on the paint). Even then the base coats of the paint will fill in the micro scratches left by 220 or even 320. The same with thicker clear finishes like Poly or Acrylic. Someone mentioned "gym floor" finish and you have to realize that and "bar top" finishes are poured on, spread out, allowed to level and cure, then buffed.
 
Feb 10, 2013 at 12:35 PM Post #1,670 of 3,874
Ah, I really wasnt sure. I just wanted to make sure I got a really smooth surface all said and done. Oh well no huge harm done. Regardless, I did take 2000 grit sandpaper, and managed to easily remove all the little dust particles, and just put another coat of stain on. Will be pouring on liquid glass later today. And will keep it in mind next time im dealing with wood to not go above 400 grit lol...
 
Feb 10, 2013 at 3:17 PM Post #1,671 of 3,874
Quote:
TrollDragon,
 
That's another beautiful piece!
 
Did you use a store-bought can to spray-on the lacquer, or do you have a spray gun set up?

Thanks edriley!
 
This time the copper was soldered instead of epoxied, yes the soldering makes a mess on the pipe... Also I didn't use any lacquer at all on the copper since there is not a lot of it showing, I also want to see how long it takes to tarnish or patina.
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Feb 10, 2013 at 3:22 PM Post #1,672 of 3,874
Quote:
Ah, I really wasnt sure. I just wanted to make sure I got a really smooth surface all said and done. Oh well no huge harm done. Regardless, I did take 2000 grit sandpaper, and managed to easily remove all the little dust particles, and just put another coat of stain on. Will be pouring on liquid glass later today. And will keep it in mind next time im dealing with wood to not go above 400 grit lol...


Good to hear it was an easy fix, don't forget we need pix! 
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Also thanks @dogwan for the tips as well.
 
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Feb 12, 2013 at 4:21 AM Post #1,674 of 3,874

My stand is two 2x4's and a piece of chromed steel that was about 18'' long. I bent the steel on each end with enough length to fit about 4" into the wood. Rounded the top 2x4 in a band saw, sanded and varnished both of them. Drilled a row of small holes in the ends of 2x4's so I could cram the ends of the steel into the wood. It's really good for my hps with the mono cable. Otherwise, still dealing with cables everywhere.
 
Feb 13, 2013 at 10:25 AM Post #1,676 of 3,874
I'm in the middle of working on a new one as well.  Using scrap pine and PVC for now (glued the PVC last night), but I'm going to look at getting a different wood for the base.
 
At some point (probably today, but I'm not sure) I will have to do some sanding to remove the manufacturer's marks on the cap I'm using... That's going to be fun...
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Feb 14, 2013 at 12:39 AM Post #1,677 of 3,874
I dont think it gets any more DIY than this. I took the two rods, from a garden hoe. The top block was literally a 1x4 I took a 36 grit sanding disc on a air powered dremel. And the bottom chunk, made from live oak, I literally found a stump cut down from previous years trimming, and chainsawed a chunk out, hacked it down to size, and sanded it smooth. Dont think Ive ever sweat and worked so much over such a small piece of wood. 
 
Had quite a few messups, stain got ruined once more after the initial dust in it, so it got resounded and stained. Some glue didnt end up working out, so it got re-sanded again and stained. At this point I was beyond sick of it, and simply wanted it done. Luckily after that it was smooth. Put it all together, clear coated, put another coat on, and here she is. Im gunna follow up with a coat of caranuba wax, to make it smooth, it currently has that new laquer/clearcoat feel to it. 


 
 
Oak chunk after much hard work of sanding cutting and etc. All the sawdust on the floor/bench/area, is from this project only. Including all the tools on the ground were used. 
 

 
Feb 14, 2013 at 1:05 AM Post #1,678 of 3,874
Quote:
I dont think it gets any more DIY than this. I took the two rods, from a garden hoe. The top block was literally a 1x4 I took a 36 grit sanding disc on a air powered dremel. And the bottom chunk, made from live oak, I literally found a stump cut down from previous years trimming, and chainsawed a chunk out, hacked it down to size, and sanded it smooth. Dont think Ive ever sweat and worked so much over such a small piece of wood. 
 
Had quite a few messups, stain got ruined once more after the initial dust in it, so it got resounded and stained. Some glue didnt end up working out, so it got re-sanded again and stained. At this point I was beyond sick of it, and simply wanted it done. Luckily after that it was smooth. Put it all together, clear coated, put another coat on, and here she is. Im gunna follow up with a coat of caranuba wax, to make it smooth, it currently has that new laquer/clearcoat feel to it. 
 
 
 
 
Oak chunk after much hard work of sanding cutting and etc. All the sawdust on the floor/bench/area, is from this project only. Including all the tools on the ground were used. 
 
 

incredible!
 
Feb 14, 2013 at 1:49 AM Post #1,679 of 3,874
Wicked job Deathdeisel!
 
Much props for the use of ChainSaw and Air tools!
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