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THE DIY HEADPHONE STAND THREAD - Page 112

post #1666 of 2929

Ill see If I can get pics in the morning. 

post #1667 of 2929
Quote:
Originally Posted by V-Duh View Post


I agree! Artistic and has multiple uses. Are those birch twigs in the lamp? The cloth emulates paper birch bark well with the white LED. 👍

Thanks! Yes It's birch twigs inside, and the leds are behind stacked birch twigs to cover the source of light. I think my favorite is the white :)

post #1668 of 2929

Here is the "Tap Handle of the Week" headphone stand.  Spring training starts this week.  Play ball!!

 

post #1669 of 2929
Quote:
Originally Posted by TrollDragon View Post

It's the new stand for my DT880's. biggrin.gif


TrollDragon,

 

That's another beautiful piece!

 

Did you use a store-bought can to spray-on the lacquer, or do you have a spray gun set up?

post #1670 of 2929
Quote:
Originally Posted by Deathdeisel View Post

Ah..crap..Im gunna cry if I gotta resand...I went from 220-400-1000-2000..Took me an hour and 30min. Gunna try and use the finer sandpaper maybe to remove it, if that wont work then ill have to re-do it maybe..


Before re-sanding you could try a bit of ScotchBrite or '0000' steel wool. Very gently buff off stuck dust particles. Another option if you are using an oil finish is to wet sand with the oil and 600 wet/dry sandpaper between coats.

 

For future reference, with wood there is no need to go that high in sandpaper grits. Especially before putting stain on. You only need to go really high with the top coats of finish. If you're getting splotchiness with the stain, sanding doesn't really cure that. I has to do with the orientation of the grain structure and absorption rates. Sanding sealer or grain sealer is your best bet for evening it out (before the stain is applied).

 

When I was doing custom cabinetry we never went above 220gr before passing off to the finisher. When I was doing custom furniture with exotic hardwoods 320gr was about max and with the oil 600gr wet/dry was all that was required to get an excellent finish.

 

Now if you're going for something like "piano black" with paint then you'll be using finer and finer grits (on the paint). Even then the base coats of the paint will fill in the micro scratches left by 220 or even 320. The same with thicker clear finishes like Poly or Acrylic. Someone mentioned "gym floor" finish and you have to realize that and "bar top" finishes are poured on, spread out, allowed to level and cure, then buffed.

post #1671 of 2929

Ah, I really wasnt sure. I just wanted to make sure I got a really smooth surface all said and done. Oh well no huge harm done. Regardless, I did take 2000 grit sandpaper, and managed to easily remove all the little dust particles, and just put another coat of stain on. Will be pouring on liquid glass later today. And will keep it in mind next time im dealing with wood to not go above 400 grit lol...

post #1672 of 2929
Quote:
Originally Posted by edriley View Post


TrollDragon,

 

That's another beautiful piece!

 

Did you use a store-bought can to spray-on the lacquer, or do you have a spray gun set up?

Thanks edriley!

 

This time the copper was soldered instead of epoxied, yes the soldering makes a mess on the pipe... Also I didn't use any lacquer at all on the copper since there is not a lot of it showing, I also want to see how long it takes to tarnish or patina.

dt880smile.png

post #1673 of 2929
Quote:
Originally Posted by Deathdeisel View Post

Ah, I really wasnt sure. I just wanted to make sure I got a really smooth surface all said and done. Oh well no huge harm done. Regardless, I did take 2000 grit sandpaper, and managed to easily remove all the little dust particles, and just put another coat of stain on. Will be pouring on liquid glass later today. And will keep it in mind next time im dealing with wood to not go above 400 grit lol...


Good to hear it was an easy fix, don't forget we need pix!  biggrin.gif

 

Also thanks @dogwan for the tips as well.

 

dt880smile.png

post #1674 of 2929
Quote:
Originally Posted by enoyzzaj View Post

Here is the "Tap Handle of the Week" headphone stand.  Spring training starts this week.  Play ball!!

 

 

thats awesome

post #1675 of 2929

My stand is two 2x4's and a piece of chromed steel that was about 18'' long. I bent the steel on each end with enough length to fit about 4" into the wood. Rounded the top 2x4 in a band saw, sanded and varnished both of them. Drilled a row of small holes in the ends of 2x4's so I could cram the ends of the steel into the wood. It's really good for my hps with the mono cable. Otherwise, still dealing with cables everywhere.

post #1676 of 2929
Quote:
Originally Posted by TrollDragon View Post


Good to hear it was an easy fix, don't forget we need pix!  biggrin.gif

 

Also thanks @dogwan for the tips as well.

 

dt880smile.png

Dont worry ill post the stand on here all said and done, has been a lot of work so far. 

post #1677 of 2929

I'm in the middle of working on a new one as well.  Using scrap pine and PVC for now (glued the PVC last night), but I'm going to look at getting a different wood for the base.

 

At some point (probably today, but I'm not sure) I will have to do some sanding to remove the manufacturer's marks on the cap I'm using... That's going to be fun... blink.gif
 

post #1678 of 2929

I dont think it gets any more DIY than this. I took the two rods, from a garden hoe. The top block was literally a 1x4 I took a 36 grit sanding disc on a air powered dremel. And the bottom chunk, made from live oak, I literally found a stump cut down from previous years trimming, and chainsawed a chunk out, hacked it down to size, and sanded it smooth. Dont think Ive ever sweat and worked so much over such a small piece of wood. 

 

Had quite a few messups, stain got ruined once more after the initial dust in it, so it got resounded and stained. Some glue didnt end up working out, so it got re-sanded again and stained. At this point I was beyond sick of it, and simply wanted it done. Luckily after that it was smooth. Put it all together, clear coated, put another coat on, and here she is. Im gunna follow up with a coat of caranuba wax, to make it smooth, it currently has that new laquer/clearcoat feel to it. 

 

 

Oak chunk after much hard work of sanding cutting and etc. All the sawdust on the floor/bench/area, is from this project only. Including all the tools on the ground were used. 

 

post #1679 of 2929
Quote:
Originally Posted by Deathdeisel View Post

I dont think it gets any more DIY than this. I took the two rods, from a garden hoe. The top block was literally a 1x4 I took a 36 grit sanding disc on a air powered dremel. And the bottom chunk, made from live oak, I literally found a stump cut down from previous years trimming, and chainsawed a chunk out, hacked it down to size, and sanded it smooth. Dont think Ive ever sweat and worked so much over such a small piece of wood. 

 

Had quite a few messups, stain got ruined once more after the initial dust in it, so it got resounded and stained. Some glue didnt end up working out, so it got re-sanded again and stained. At this point I was beyond sick of it, and simply wanted it done. Luckily after that it was smooth. Put it all together, clear coated, put another coat on, and here she is. Im gunna follow up with a coat of caranuba wax, to make it smooth, it currently has that new laquer/clearcoat feel to it. 

 

 

 

 

Oak chunk after much hard work of sanding cutting and etc. All the sawdust on the floor/bench/area, is from this project only. Including all the tools on the ground were used. 

 

 

incredible!

post #1680 of 2929

Wicked job Deathdeisel!

 

Much props for the use of ChainSaw and Air tools!

beerchug.gif

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