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THE DIY HEADPHONE STAND THREAD - Page 111

post #1651 of 2929
Quote:
Originally Posted by TrollDragon View Post

It's the new stand for my DT880's. biggrin.gif

That looks fantastic! is that copper pipe?

post #1652 of 2929
Quote:
Originally Posted by Shootinputin187 View Post

That looks fantastic! is that copper pipe?

Thanks!

 

Yes it is with an oak base... and here is it's big shiny sister....

 

The big shiny one... biggrin.gif


Edited by TrollDragon - 2/8/13 at 8:08am
post #1653 of 2929
Quote:
Originally Posted by TrollDragon View Post

Thanks!

 

Yes it is with an oak base... and here is it's big shiny sister....

 

The big shiny one... biggrin.gif

 

How much did it cost? and did you use some sorta polishing paste to make it so shiny cool.gif?

post #1654 of 2929
Quote:
Originally Posted by Shootinputin187 View Post

 

How much did it cost? and did you use some sorta polishing paste to make it so shiny cool.gif?

 

Cost:
6' 1/2 pipe, (4) 90's, (2) Street 90's, (4) 45's, (6) Tee's, (4) Caps and 6' 1/2 Insulation was $30 from Kent Building Supplies.
Lacquer, Steel Wool (Medium & Superfine) and PC7 Epoxy $25 from Home Hardware.
 
Then it was buffed with compound and a 4" Mushroom buffing wheel on a hand drill then lacquered to keep the shine.
post #1655 of 2929
Quote:
Originally Posted by TrollDragon View Post

 

Cost:
6' 1/2 pipe, (4) 90's, (2) Street 90's, (4) 45's, (6) Tee's, (4) Caps and 6' 1/2 Insulation was $30 from Kent Building Supplies.
Lacquer, Steel Wool (Medium & Superfine) and PC7 Epoxy $25 from Home Hardware.
 
Then it was buffed with compound and a 4" Mushroom buffing wheel on a hand drill then lacquered to keep the shine.

 

I'd keep all bright light sources away from that stand, so I wouldn't have to get blinded by the glare!

post #1656 of 2929
Quote:
Originally Posted by daigo View Post

 

I'd keep all bright light sources away from that stand, so I wouldn't have to get blinded by the glare!

Yes Indeed!

I was going to go for a mirror finish but I didn't have the gear and it was just way too much buffing...

 

post #1657 of 2929

Finished my DIY headphone stand. Thanks for all the inspiration this thread has given me! It's made from an oak base sourced from an old shelf and a birch arm with leather for headphone comfort! The lamp is mostly made of birch with curtain cloth wrapped around it and leather on top. Inside there are four red leds and one "warm" white led with a on-off-on switch on the front to choose color. Finally it's powered by USB sleeved with paracord.



 

 

post #1658 of 2929

Nice Job Grumus!

 

I really like the lamp part.
 

post #1659 of 2929
Quote:
Originally Posted by TrollDragon View Post

Nice Job Grumus!

I really like the lamp part.

I agree! Artistic and has multiple uses. Are those birch twigs in the lamp? The cloth emulates paper birch bark well with the white LED. 👍
post #1660 of 2929

Btw guys, what would you reccomend as a good remover of dust particles and whatnot from a stained wood surface? Without removing the stain, trying to get the finish perfect before putting a clear coat on. 

post #1661 of 2929
I am NOT a wood worker... But I have always used a lightly damp tack cloth to remove sanding dust etc... Cover and let dry then lacquer... I don't have the patience for that gym floor finish, I wish I did. biggrin.gif

Sent from my HTC Desire HD A9191 using Tapatalk 2
post #1662 of 2929

I mean stuff has stuck to the finish from staining it, and little dust particles fell on it. Or is that still what you meant? 

post #1663 of 2929

If there is stuff stuck in the stain like dust etc then you'll probably have to sand right back to the bare wood and stain again after making sure everything is clean and dust free.

 

Info below gleaned from the page here

Well... from what I read:

 

Sand the piece

Clean the piece and the room very well to remove all dust particles etc.

Stain the Piece

Apply a layer of Sanding Sealer after Stain completely dries.

Sand the layer of Sanding Sealer

Then Lacquer or Varnish.

 

Sawdust, breeze, temperature, humidity will affect the final outcome.

Also use Water/Water or Oil/Oil stain and poly, never mix water with oil etc...

 

But like I say I am no refinisher, others who have done some of the excellent woodworkers here can chime in.

Getting a nice finish is another whole skill set on its own...


Edited by TrollDragon - 2/9/13 at 8:24pm
post #1664 of 2929

Ah..crap..Im gunna cry if I gotta resand...I went from 220-400-1000-2000..Took me an hour and 30min. Gunna try and use the finer sandpaper maybe to remove it, if that wont work then ill have to re-do it maybe..

post #1665 of 2929

Post some pics of the problem and maybe some others more in the know might be able to provide an easier fix.

It's a lot of work resanding, and I would not want you to do it if you didn't have to.

beerchug.gif
 

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