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A Question to the Etymotic Experts - Page 2

post #16 of 24
Quote:
FIG. 5 is a schematic diagram of the configuration of the junction unit 15 which connects the earphone cables 13 and 14 to the common cable 16 and which includes special electrical filters for enhancing the performance of the earphones 11 and 12. One conductor 63 and one conductor 64 of the cables 13 and 14 are directly connected to a ground conductor 65 of the common cable 16. A second conductor 67 of the cable 13, a second conductor 68 of the cable 14, and conductors 69 and 70 of cable 16 are respectively connected to pads 71, 72, 73 and 74 of a circuit board 76 which is formed with two circuits operative to increase the signal applied to the receivers of the earphones 11 and 12 as a function of increasing frequency.

As shown, a capacitor 77 and a resistor 78 are connected in series between pads 71 and 73 while a resistor 80 is connected directly between pads 71 and 73, in parallel with the series combination of capacitor 77 and resistor 78. Similarly, a capacitor 81 and a resistor 82 are connected in series between pads 72 and 74 while a resistor 84 is connected directly between pads 71 and 73. It will be apparent that at very low frequencies, when the capacitive reactance is high, the series impedances are determined primarily by the value of the resistors 80 and 84. As the frequency increases, the series impedances are reduced, increasing the amplitudes of higher frequency components of the applied signals.

This electrical filtering operation is found to be highly desirable, permitting the use of an amount of acoustic damping sufficient to smooth out peaks in the acoustic responses of the earphones 11 and 12 while obtaining optimum frequency response characteristics. By way of example, the value of each of the resistors 78, 80, 82 and 84 may be 100 ohms and the value of each of the capacitors 77 and 81 may be 0.22 microfarads. The circuit board 76 and the parts thereon preferably have quite small dimensions. Each of the resistor and capacitor parts preferably has maximum dimensions of 0.150".times.0.300".times.0.100". These dimensions are desirable to obtain a compact junction unit and are such that if desired, as when a single earphone is to be used, the filter for each filter might be located within the earphone, e.g. between the receiver 18 and the end cap 29. In a two earphone assembly such as the illustrated assembly 10, however, it is generally preferable to locate the filters in the junction unit 15.
Here you go. This information pertains to the ER-4B, of course, which was initially the only kind of ER4 there was.
post #17 of 24
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by PiccoloNamek View Post
Here you go. This information pertains to the ER-4B, of course, which was initially the only kind of ER4 there was.
Okay, so I DEFINITELY should have paid attention to my father more. I'm gonna have to print that thing off, along with the instructions, and still ask someone to decipher it for me.

Thanks, though. Looks like I might have a cool project.
post #18 of 24
Quote:
Originally Posted by AudioDwebe View Post
I don't get it.

If the 4S has 100 ohm resisters and the 4P has 27 ohm resisters, with the drivers being identical, shouldn't that just change the speaker's ability to increase in volume with amount of gain and not affect the sound coming out of the speakers, themselves?

I got the resistence figures from Dr. Xin's site and I'm going to Ratshack later to get the supply to make what's going to be a 68 ohm resistive wire (they didn't have 75 ohms and I doubt I'd be able to hear the difference of 7 ohms).

But I still don't get it.
As I understand it, impedance varies with frequency of the signal. The "loudess" of 4P and 4S at different frequencies will be different and hence the 4P and 4S should have a slightly different sound regardless of absolute volume.
post #19 of 24
Thread Starter 
Went to Radio Shack; purchased the cable, resistors, electrical tape, and some soldering iron. So far, so good.

Disconnected the cable (the kind with volume adjustment in the middle) and there were red and white wires, along with an unshielded ground, I presumed. Too easy. Red to red; white to white; connect the ground.

Actually, it really wasn't "too easy." It was a pain in the butt. The wires are so small I couldn't hardly see anything. Dr. Xin said it was easy; others have said it's pretty easy; I must just be getting old 'cuz I could hardly see the bare wires.

So anyway, after about an hour or so I had it finished. Did a quick listen on an iPod just to make sure all the connections were in place. Check. Went upstairs to listen on the home amp. Something sounded awefully wrong. It sounded out of phase, multiplied by about 50. Re-checked the wires. Red to red, white to white, common ground. Tried it again. Still sounded like doo-doo. Disconnected all the wires and tried without the resistors. Still sounded like crap.

Apparently, I'm a candidate for the ones made by Etymotic. I think my Dad's looking down on me with disappointment in his eyes. I don't get it. I checked to see if I could find an additional set of ground within the tiny wires, but saw nothing. It's really sad that I couldn't even do a DIY headphone wire.

At least I tried.
post #20 of 24
You have a tool missing - A Multimeter

Working with ER-4 Impedance adapter requires at least a simple multimeter to gauge the resistance on each channel and for continunity.

For the record, ER-4P cables have exactly 24 oHm resistance on R and L. The drivers itself have 1 oHm (both ER-4P and S).

If you have a multimeter, you would already have known if the resistors are in good shape. Trust me, I have made over 20 P > S adapter, some resisitors tend to "skew" when used.

Don't give up.
post #21 of 24
the etymotic website used to have info on the differences. As I remember it, altho I haven't checked lately, the "p" was more for mp3 players due to its efficiency. May want to check there. My Xin SM IV has switch to make the "p" sound more like an "S". To be honest, I prefer the "p" setting. But that's me
post #22 of 24
Thread Starter 
SUCCESS!!!!

I tried again today using another 1/8" entension I had laying around. This one's a bit thicker so it was somewhat easier to work with. It was a pretty simple procedure. I did the same thing as last night, only didn't bother soldering, but rather just wrapped the wiring around one another and used electrical tape.

Worked like a charm.

My guess is last night, with me trying to solder and operate on what appeared to be two pieces of sewing thread, somehow had wires touching or, maybe I fried the resistors by trying to solder pretty much right next to it (about 1/4 inch wire left protruding from the resistor). Maybe I didn't shield the wire right, who knows?

So now I've got a home-brewed P to S adapter. I'll shorten it and do a better job once I get the portable amp here and find out how long a piece I'll need.

If anyone else is considering doing this, I'd highly recommend not trying to cram everything into the headphone extension with the built in volume pot. Just use a regular extension and tape everything or get one of those heat-shrink things.
post #23 of 24
Congratulations!

Just to give you an idea how compact you can make them



And the permanent type....


My first ER-4S complete overhaul...

post #24 of 24
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by EFN View Post
Congratulations!

Just to give you an idea how compact you can make them



And the permanent type....


My first ER-4S complete overhaul...


Nice. Your Etys look like a Franken-Ety. Very cool.
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