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Upgraded Woo Audio 6? - Page 9

post #121 of 187
On the V-cap site they show the V-cap of .15 to be about 25mm by 32mm and with the limited space in the 6 after using some BG caps, I would use 5 of the 330uf 200volt WK, there is little wiggle room. The extra BG for dividing the power supply for the output tubes.
post #122 of 187
Quote:
Originally Posted by jamato8 View Post
On the V-cap site they show the V-cap of .15 to be about 25mm by 32mm and with the limited space in the 6 after using some BG caps, I would use 5 of the 330uf 200volt WK, there is little wiggle room. The extra BG for dividing the power supply for the output tubes.
i see where you're going with this...very interesting...you're going to have to
really work to best utilize the limited space inside the chassis...

let us know how it turns out, please!
post #123 of 187
Quote:
Originally Posted by takezo View Post
i see where you're going with this...very interesting...you're going to have to
really work to best utilize the limited space inside the chassis...

let us know how it turns out, please!
For one I would stand the coupling caps on end, which would take up less room. Then I would solder everything in place and push real hard and screw the bottom on with the help of someone sitting on it. lol. I will see.
post #124 of 187
that would be a sight to behold...LOL!
post #125 of 187
The working voltage of the 6 is right around 200 volts. Now the caps in use are rated at 350 and 200. When you first turn on an amp like this the voltage rises and then as the resistor responds to the load, in all of the circuit, it falls. I would imagine it might rise to 230 or so. I need to check this as I don't like to go too far out of spec, even though this is for a very short period of time and there is tolerance built into the caps. I would prefer the 350 volt rating of the 150uf but I want 330uf to work with and that cap is also nonpolar.
post #126 of 187

WA6 Hum

Anyone experience a very low level hum in the WA6 at near max volume? I've read a number of posts stating that this amp has a dead silent noise floor, but for me not the case...mild hum.

Just wondering if anyone has gone through this and if so how did you solve it?
post #127 of 187
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gregious View Post
Anyone experience a very low level hum in the WA6 at near max volume? I've read a number of posts stating that this amp has a dead silent noise floor, but for me not the case...mild hum.

Just wondering if anyone has gone through this and if so how did you solve it?
Do you have the source connected when you hear this? If so then it is from your source if your source is not connected and you hear this is it from both channels?
post #128 of 187
Quote:
Originally Posted by jamato8 View Post
Do you have the source connected when you hear this? If so then it is from your source if your source is not connected and you hear this is it from both channels?
Good idea, thanks. The good news is it's not the Woo. The bad news is it's the USB DAC. Which is mostly good news, since I'm lovin' the Woo. The DAC...not so much.
post #129 of 187
I just changed the cathode caps from the 220uf common electrolytic to some Black Gate red nonpolar. The mids are great, which is what a good cathode cap can do at the right uf and quality. They were ok before but now it has mids and the bass is a little different as well.
post #130 of 187
Ok, so would this be a good shopping list:

Black Gates:
2 of 220uF/200v WK/220
2 of 150uF/350v VK/150
4 of 470uF/16v N/470

V-Cap TFTF:
2 of .1uF/600v (or should I go for .15uF/600v?)

Mills & Riken Ohm resistors. (btw, does anyone remember exact resistor values?)

Should I replace the cables at the same time, and what cable would you recommend. And what about those cables that are connected to Alps potentiometer, should I replace those too?

I guess I have to order V-Caps from v-cap.com, but I think I'm ordering everything else from partsconnexion.com, so I would be very thankful if you guys would help me build my shopping list.

Couple of pics inside my WA6:



post #131 of 187
I would go with the .15uf cap for a little better bass or a .22uf. The dropping power resistor is 500 ohms, which is on the resistor. The others are color coded or you can measure them with the tubes out making sure you aren't measuring anything else in the circuit. I would use the Mills for the main power supply and Kiwame or Riken Ohm in their larger watt rating for the other applications. Carbon film is very transparent and noninductive.

The Mundorf Silver/gold caps from Parts connexion are also very good and less money.
post #132 of 187
Quote:
Originally Posted by jantze View Post
Ok, so would this be a good shopping list:

Black Gates:
2 of 220uF/200v WK/220
2 of 150uF/350v VK/150
4 of 470uF/16v N/470

V-Cap TFTF:
2 of .1uF/600v (or should I go for .15uF/600v?)

Mills & Riken Ohm resistors. (btw, does anyone remember exact resistor values?)

Should I replace the cables at the same time, and what cable would you recommend. And what about those cables that are connected to Alps potentiometer, should I replace those too?

I guess I have to order V-Caps from v-cap.com, but I think I'm ordering everything else from partsconnexion.com, so I would be very thankful if you guys would help me build my shopping list.
either the .1uF or the .15uF is fine for this amp...make sure to
clean the contact points of as much of the remaining solders
as possible when you desolder to facilitate best contact between
the v-cap lead wires and contact points when you resolder.

the mills resistors:
1K MRA-5 (5watt) to replace the grey resistors
2K MRA-5 (5watt) to replace the dark blue resistors

riken resistors
56K Riken (1watt) to replace the red resistors
470K Riken (1watt) to replace the small light blue resistors

higher watt is better but not always available...

just make sure all the resistors are oriented in mirror-like fashion.
it doesn't really matter which direction you choose with resistors
but the right and left should mirror each other...

no need to replace the internal wiring for the alps pot...
you may want to replace the internal wiring for each of the
power caps but more work involved...i used 22 gauge silver
stranded internal hookup wires but any good quality wire is fine.

good luck and be careful if this is your first time...
post #133 of 187
Quote:
Originally Posted by takezo View Post
either the .1uF or the .15uF is fine for this amp...make sure to
clean the contact points of as much of the remaining solders
as possible when you desolder to facilitate best contact between
the v-cap lead wires and contact points when you resolder.

the mills resistors:
1K MRA-5 (5watt) to replace the grey resistors
2K MRA-5 (5watt) to replace the dark blue resistors

riken resistors
56K Riken (1watt) to replace the red resistors
470K Riken (1watt) to replace the small light blue resistors

higher watt is better but not always available...

just make sure all the resistors are oriented in mirror-like fashion.
it doesn't really matter which direction you choose with resistors
but the right and left should mirror each other...

no need to replace the internal wiring for the alps pot...
you may want to replace the internal wiring for each of the
power caps but more work involved...i used 22 gauge silver
stranded internal hookup wires but any good quality wire is fine.

good luck and be careful if this is your first time...
Well, I guess this will be my shopping list then:

Capacitors:
2 X BLKGATE- 60203 VK 150 350v 30 x 25
2 X BLKGATE- 60165 WK 220 200v 30 x 25
4 X BLKGATE- 60095 N 470 16v 16 x 24

Resistors:
2 X MILLS- 64407 330R MRA-5
1 X MILLS- 64162 510R MRA-12
2 X MILLS- 64263 1K MRA-5
2 X MILLS- 64264 2K MRA-5
2 X RIKEN- 62171 56K 1 watt
2 X RIKEN- 62183 510K 1 watt

Solder:
1 X MUNDORF- 70429 Mundorf Solder Silver / Gold 100 Grams

Hook-up wire:
5ft MUNDORF 70800 Yellow Teflon (PTFE) Silver/Gold Hook-Up Wire 0.5mm/24 awg
5ft MUNDORF 70801 White Teflon (PTFE) Silver/Gold Hook-Up Wire 0.5mm/24 awg
post #134 of 187
Ok, my parts have arrived.
Still wondering which resistors to use. I had to order Mills & Kiwame resistors, because they didn't have the right Riken Ohm resistors.

Resistors:
1 X 510R Mills 12 watt
2 X 330R Mills 5 watt ( OR Kiwame 2 watt? ) (replace dark green resistor)
2 X 1K Mills 5 watt ( OR Kiwame 2 watt? )
2 X 2K Mills 5 watt
2 X 56K Kiwame 2 watt
2 X 470K Kiwame 2 watt

And do you guys have any tips how to bolt down those caps? Could I just use a glue gun? Would it be enough to keep those caps in place?
post #135 of 187
Quote:
Originally Posted by jantze View Post
Ok, my parts have arrived.
Still wondering which resistors to use. I had to order Mills & Kiwame resistors, because they didn't have the right Riken Ohm resistors.

Resistors:
1 X 510R Mills 12 watt
2 X 330R Mills 5 watt ( OR Kiwame 2 watt? ) (replace dark green resistor)
2 X 1K Mills 5 watt ( OR Kiwame 2 watt? )
2 X 2K Mills 5 watt
2 X 56K Kiwame 2 watt
2 X 470K Kiwame 2 watt

And do you guys have any tips how to bolt down those caps? Could I just use a glue gun? Would it be enough to keep those caps in place?
i'd use the mills but then again i've not used the kiwame so i'm not certain
which are "better" per say...jamato may be able to help you here.

you don't need to "bolt" it down with clips...just use a plastic strap fastener
...use the pre-existing holes beneath the power caps...use silicon rubber to
stabilize the caps just like woo audio has done (you'll see this when you take
it apart)...
the coupling cap (v-caps or equivalent) is another story since there are no
pre-existing holes to work with but i used silicon rubber to hold them in place
and it's done a fine job of holding them in place so far...good luck.

one more thing: if the amp's been used within the past week, please make sure
to drain the power caps before you touch them to take them apart...use a
cheap large value resistor in parallel to a power cap using electrically insulated
gloves or pliers...do this to each of the power caps...just a touch will do...be safe!
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