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The Canon Thread - Page 163

post #2431 of 2699

leftnose, I thought I your post said that you decided to go Fuji.  My friend recommended me that exact same model (or maybe I'm mistaken about your post??)  He said it was the ultimate wedding camera.....

 

My decision to go FF was accelerated by the last event (http://www.flickr.com/photos/hyogen82/sets/72157632641336362/) I shot recently in which I realized I really only needed the 50mm 1.4 (85mm on FF) and maybe an ultrawide.  And of course a wider lens like a 50 or 35mm.  I used pretty much the 50mm exclusively.  On my aging Rebel T1i I was forced to shoot at ISO800, 1/60, and f/1.6.  I could have shot at 1.4, but I would have liked to have stopped down to get a greater DoF.  I had to rely on the center dot focus + recompose in which sometimes I missed the shot.  I didn't want to go higher than ISO800 because of noise and I definitely could have used a faster shutter speed. 

 

I'm going with the 50mm 1.8D because I've read it's significantly sharper than the 1.4 or 1.8G version.  I got one on Canon forums for $90...hehe.  Fred Miranda buy/sell seems to have high prices, Craigslist has even higher used prices...and eBay is pretty high also.  Another example of how much cheaper Canon is for used lenses and how much more available they are is the 135mm F2.0 L lenss which goes regularly for between $700-800 used in-like new condition.  It's an amazing lens, which I only hope the Nikon 135 2.0 can match--although it has the Defocusing--it's something like $1000+ used! 

 

Going from some pretty nice and cheap and large lenses with lots of glass like the sigma 50mm 1.4 to an oooold 50mm 1.8 D and 85mm 1.8D which have a manual aperture ring with no built-in motor will be kinda interesting.  Even though I'll have a way nicer body, I'll look less like a pro :)  In order for me to switch cameras, I had to sign a contract with my wife to not switch bodies for 6 years and not switch lenses (up to 3 maximum)--she added a clause to let me switch one time.  So, I need to choose really wisely.  Right now I only have the budget for the 50mm 1.8 and 85mm 1.8.............she's gonna get me a wide angle in 6 months for my birthday :)  The one switch may possibly be the sigma 35mm 1.4 when it gets cheaper in the next few years (LOL).  Or, maybe it'll be something like a 85mm 1.4--Sigma/Nikon. 

 

The high pitched shutter sound of the Rebel was ridiculously annoying and loud during the baby shower at least to me.  I prefer the quieter noise of the better Canons...and was surprised at how loud the D600's shutter was.  It is a much more mechanical sound and I like it more, but it's still pretty loud.  My wife thought it was louder than my Rebel...  It at least has a quiet mode, though :)

 

It was a tough choice between 6D and D600, even though D600 was better overall.  The -3EV center focus point of the 6D is really nice, while the D600 is supposed to have an inferior focusing system to the D700 and D4...and will hunt in the dark :-/  The wifi remote camera control via smartphone is really slick and useful IMO, and of course the video quality is better on Canon side.  On 100% crops, the D600 has quite a bit more noise than the 6D at ISO6400, but hopefully I wont' really need to use that high. 

 

I'm quite proud of the images I got from the baby shower shoot - here are some of the best ones I think.  I cannot wait to start shooting my D600!  I particularly like the processing I did with these--I never had thought to move the blacks to the left in Lightroom before.  I got a ton of compliments and a couple people wondering if I could shoot their family pics :)  Not so bad shooting with a Rebel if I do say so myself :D  I hope I don't end up kicking myself for not just getting the 5D mark II and having a little more budget for lenses right now and cheaper lenses to switch to in the future.......  but all in all, just $200 or so more to get the newest D600 over a used 5DII made sense to me. 

 

 

On second glance, a tighter crop on the image above may have been better.  There is garbage showing in the lower right. 

 

These two images above... i can't believe they came out of my camera and was taken by me.  The bottom one was with the sigma 10-20 and I bounced the flash from the ceiling.  But pretty much everything about these two shots I feel like I would have been impressed with them and believed they were taken by my friend who is a pro wedding photographer.  I have started getting better skin tones and overall color by simply desaturating a tiny bit....and doing something I had never done before----turn DOWN the blacks slider.  Usually I turned them up to make pics look even sharper/contrasty.    I might have mentioned that in my previous post.  The lighting was a little dark overall (except for kitchen), and the settings I said before on my 50mm 1.4 (iso800, 1/60, f/1.6) underexposed them a little bit.  I could have exposed a little more in lightroom, but I only boosted it a little bit.  I kinda like the warmer, nostalgic tone for this series.  Shooting manual was awesome because I only had to spend a little bit of time instead of having to compensate for all the different exposures like my last church event (took me like 10 hours.....)

 

 

Wish I could have stopped down more because of shots like this. 

 

These two were taken pretty much in the dark.  I had to pull the highlights/shadows to get them like these--I was pretty impressed with how they turned out considering how little light there was.  They were looking at a slideshow projected on a screen

10-20 with flash pointed a little up.  A diffuser of some sort may have worked better here. 

 

I read a review that compared the D600's grip to the D7000.  Right before I met the guy to buy the D600, I tried out the D7000 inside of Best Buy and was disappointed.......It was very narrow and crampy like a Rebel's grip...and had this weird angle to it that made the camera feel like it was being wrenched out of my hands..   Luckily, I found D600 grip to be thicker and without that weird angle  :D


Edited by hyogen - 1/31/13 at 5:04am
post #2432 of 2699
Quote:
Originally Posted by hyogen View Post

leftnose, I thought I your post said that you decided to go Fuji.  My friend recommended me that exact same model (or maybe I'm mistaken about your post??)  He said it was the ultimate wedding camera.....

 

 

 

No, not me.  I've never used the Fuji X-series so it would be negligent of me to suggest one.  They're not full frame, anyway.

 

Honestly, I think you made the right choice with the D600.  If I weren't so tied to the Canon system and were looking for a FF camera today, that would probably be my choice.  That said, I just sold my 5D2 and I'll order a 5D3 a bit later today.  Maybe later this year after the first price drop I'll pick up an X100s.

 

50mm is certainly a very good choice for a primary lens on FF but, if you're going to be stuck with 3 lenses max for the next 6 years, I don't know that I would choose 85mm as one of the other lenses.  That's pretty close to 50mm.  I might go with the 105 "Micro" which, I understand, is also a good general purpose lens.  VR and Macro to boot.  A very versatile lens.  On the wide end, I'd be tempted to get a zoom as there is a huge change in FOV for every few mm on the wide end and I wouldn't want to be stuck with say, a 16mm lens when, 24 or 28 might be a better choice.  I don't know price points on the Nikon side but somethng like Canon's 17-40L would be a good choice.  17-40, 50, 105.  That's a pretty complete general use set-up.

post #2433 of 2699

Mayday! Mayday! We have a deserter on site! Request backup!

 

j/k :-D enjoy your D600.

 

I suspect a 6-year freeze on equipment is going to just be a temporary pact, judging from personal experience. ;-)

 

17-40, 50, 105 sounds good, I used to run around with 17-40, 50, 85 ten years ago with the EOS 10D and EOS 33 combo. However, I think Nikon doesn't have any 17-40, or other "affordable" ultrawide for that matter. A manual focus Samyang 24mm might be a more suitable complement, it does match up with one of the common 3-prime trinities (24/50/100).

 

 

edit: looks like I spoke too soon, Nikon just released a relatively affordable AF-S NIKKOR 18-35mm f/3.5-4.5G ED.


Edited by MadCow - 1/31/13 at 6:21pm
post #2434 of 2699
Got my 5D3 today. Holy Christmas! Non center AF points that are useful! Now I just need to get used to using the joystick to change AF points. I've been using the AF point button and spinning the dial for 15 years, since I got my A2. That worked fine with only 9 points on the 5D2 but is a bit cumbersome now.
post #2435 of 2699

@leftnose: i though the same a few years back and went for a 16-35L II instead of the 16-40 or other choices. i can't seem to remember the reasoning behind my choice but at the time it seemed legit.  even the smallest uv filter will add sensible vignetting and 16mm and 35mn suck.  but else i m satisfied with it. not super sharp but dxo does wonders on that lens.

again i agree with the moderate purpose of having both 50 and 85. i really use the 85 only as a blur tool and not much for its fov, as the 50 would usually do the trick.

 

on the tele side, with time i feel more and more that i should sell my 85 and 135 and get the latest 80-200. i m not a fan of zooms as they make me lazy as a photographer. but this 80-200 is really such a powerful lens.  arrrgh cornelian dilemma !!!!! i love my 85 and 135 so much.

 

 

and grats on the new 5d . autofocus is really something else compared to the mkII

 

 

 

 

 

@hyogen:  again i'm on a non calibrated laptop so others will confirm (or not) but from here it looks like you color balance is seriously wrong.

post #2436 of 2699

Hi folks. Not sure when you say D600 you mean the Canon 600D but here are my efforts with that camera. I like it, my first DLSR.

http://www.ephotozine.com/user/sinth-45236

post #2437 of 2699
Quote:
Originally Posted by leftnose View Post

Got my 5D3 today. Holy Christmas! Non center AF points that are useful! Now I just need to get used to using the joystick to change AF points. I've been using the AF point button and spinning the dial for 15 years, since I got my A2. That worked fine with only 9 points on the 5D2 but is a bit cumbersome now.

 

Awesome, enjoy your new camera. I'm a bit surprised you were still using that old technique to change AF points; since the joystick appeared on the 20D and onwards, it was my default method. In fact, the joystick was absolutely perfect with 9 points -- each direction mapped the peripheral points, no nudging around the screen.

 

And indeed, peripheral AF points are useful now. 50L at 1.2:

post #2438 of 2699
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sinth View Post

Hi folks. Not sure when you say D600 you mean the Canon 600D but here are my efforts with that camera. I like it, my first DLSR.

 

 

Nice photos!  But the D600 we're talking about is the Nikon D600 http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/892427-REG/Nikon_D600_Digital_Camera_Body.html which is their relatively new "entry-level" full frame camera.

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by MadCow View Post

 

Awesome, enjoy your new camera. I'm a bit surprised you were still using that old technique to change AF points; since the joystick appeared on the 20D and onwards, it was my default method. In fact, the joystick was absolutely perfect with 9 points -- each direction mapped the peripheral points, no nudging around the screen.

 

 

Well, my journey with SLR cameras jumped from the A2 which didn't have a joystick to the 5D2.  And, frankly, I never really used the peripheral points often enough on the 5D2 to bother learning a new method.  I'm also a left-eyed shooter and the joystick was in a slightly odd spot that was cramped to reach because of my face.  Maybe because of the bigger screen on the 5D3, the joystick moved just enough that it's an easy reach.

 

A couple of ergonomic changes on the 5D3 that I think might be negatives compared to the 5D2.  When I chimp, I like to go all the way and look at EXIF data and histograms.  So I like the playback button to show this view first.  With the 5D2, it was then a click of the zoom in button to get a full screen view of the image and you could zoom in from there.  With the 5D3, you press the playback button to see the histogram and EXIF.  Then you have to press the zoom button to be able to see just the image.  But, the zoom button defaults to a zoomed in view at the focus point.  I get why; a quick way to confirm focus but if I want to see EXIF/histogram and then just the image, now it's two button presses and a dial spin whereas it used to be just two button presses.

 

I also AF on the shutter button, not the back button.  With the 5D2, though, the shutter button wouldn't activate AF, you had to press the back button.  I liked this because I mainly use live view on a tripod and if I'm shooting something static, I could AF once with the back button and take multiple frames without AF'ing again.  Now, if you have the shutter button set for AF, it also AF's in live view so, I think, you have to AF for every frame.  Yes, you could just flip to MF after the inital AF but that's a bit tedious.

post #2439 of 2699
Quote:
Originally Posted by leftnose View Post

I also AF on the shutter button, not the back button.  With the 5D2, though, the shutter button wouldn't activate AF, you had to press the back button.  I liked this because I mainly use live view on a tripod and if I'm shooting something static, I could AF once with the back button and take multiple frames without AF'ing again.  Now, if you have the shutter button set for AF, it also AF's in live view so, I think, you have to AF for every frame.  Yes, you could just flip to MF after the inital AF but that's a bit tedious.

 

You can configure the functionality of various buttons on the 5D3 to behave the same way, e.g. configure the shutter button to AE Lock only, then configure the AF-On button to AF Start.

 

Many of the other buttons can be configured to various functions. One that I find particularly helpful to me is to remap the DOF preview to toggle between One Shot and AI Servo AF. I usually have my 5D3 on AI Servo by default, but when I need better accuracy and low light sensitivity I can simply hold down the DOF preview and instantly get One Shot without needing to fiddle with AF modes.

 

Another useful option that I found was that you could have two separate AF buttons; e.g. you could setup AF-On to AF on the currently selected focus point, and the * button to AF on the registered focus point. This way I can move my focus points around with the joystick, but still have instant access to one registered focus point without affecting the location of the current one.

 

The moving of the playback zoom button from the right hand side to the left column is an annoyance though. On the 5D2, sometimes when I wanted to focus critically (handheld, not on tripod) I could easily engage live view, magnify with my right thumb and then manually focus with my left. Now, with all the controls on the left side, it can be more difficult to manual focus this way especially when heavier lenses are mounted.

post #2440 of 2699
Quote:
Originally Posted by castleofargh View Post

@leftnose: i though the same a few years back and went for a 16-35L II instead of the 16-40 or other choices. i can't seem to remember the reasoning behind my choice but at the time it seemed legit.  even the smallest uv filter will add sensible vignetting and 16mm and 35mn suck.  but else i m satisfied with it. not super sharp but dxo does wonders on that lens.

again i agree with the moderate purpose of having both 50 and 85. i really use the 85 only as a blur tool and not much for its fov, as the 50 would usually do the trick.

 

on the tele side, with time i feel more and more that i should sell my 85 and 135 and get the latest 80-200. i m not a fan of zooms as they make me lazy as a photographer. but this 80-200 is really such a powerful lens.  arrrgh cornelian dilemma !!!!! i love my 85 and 135 so much.

 

 

and grats on the new 5d . autofocus is really something else compared to the mkII

 

 

 

 

 

@hyogen:  again i'm on a non calibrated laptop so others will confirm (or not) but from here it looks like you color balance is seriously wrong.


It may be the processing style I was going for.  It is more on the magenta and warmer side.  These new pics I took with the D600 have a little stylized processing also.  First pics I've taken with my new full frame and I couldn't be happier!

 

http://www.flickr.com/photos/hyogen82/sets/72157632666128109/with/8437667878/ 

post #2441 of 2699
Quote:
Originally Posted by MadCow View Post

 

You can configure the functionality of various buttons on the 5D3 to behave the same way, e.g. configure the shutter button to AE Lock only, then configure the AF-On button to AF Start.

 

Many of the other buttons can be configured to various functions. One that I find particularly helpful to me is to remap the DOF preview to toggle between One Shot and AI Servo AF. I usually have my 5D3 on AI Servo by default, but when I need better accuracy and low light sensitivity I can simply hold down the DOF preview and instantly get One Shot without needing to fiddle with AF modes.

 

Another useful option that I found was that you could have two separate AF buttons; e.g. you could setup AF-On to AF on the currently selected focus point, and the * button to AF on the registered focus point. This way I can move my focus points around with the joystick, but still have instant access to one registered focus point without affecting the location of the current one.

 

The moving of the playback zoom button from the right hand side to the left column is an annoyance though. On the 5D2, sometimes when I wanted to focus critically (handheld, not on tripod) I could easily engage live view, magnify with my right thumb and then manually focus with my left. Now, with all the controls on the left side, it can be more difficult to manual focus this way especially when heavier lenses are mounted.

 

Thanks.  I played around with the button assignments and the trouble is that the setting are the same for both standard and live view shooting.  So, I can set back button only-AF as I like for Live View but then, I get back button only AF for standard shooting when I prefer to use the shutter button.  You can't have it one way for standard shooting and another way for live view.  Oh well, I guess I'll learn to live with that.

post #2442 of 2699
Quote:
Originally Posted by MadCow View Post

The moving of the playback zoom button from the right hand side to the left column is an annoyance though. On the 5D2, sometimes when I wanted to focus critically (handheld, not on tripod) I could easily engage live view, magnify with my right thumb and then manually focus with my left. Now, with all the controls on the left side, it can be more difficult to manual focus this way especially when heavier lenses are mounted.

 

That was the most annoying thing I found initially; however, you can reassign the "playback zoom" function to the "Set" button in the middle of the dial wheel, which you can press with your right thumb when manual-focusing with left hand.  Lifesaver for me personally.

post #2443 of 2699
Quote:
Originally Posted by leftnose View Post

Got my 5D3 today. Holy Christmas! Non center AF points that are useful! Now I just need to get used to using the joystick to change AF points. I've been using the AF point button and spinning the dial for 15 years, since I got my A2. That worked fine with only 9 points on the 5D2 but is a bit cumbersome now.

 

You'll get used to it quickly.  Another shocking improvement you will see is Ai Servo focusing for moving objects, i.e. it's actually possible now!

 

One thing always perplexed me about Canon.  On my EOS 3 film body, Canon had this neat "Eye Focus" thing where AF focus point would automatically move to the AF point your pupil looked at without having to mess with joysticks, etc.  It works great, even better with careful eye calibration, and I always wondered why Canon stopped using this neat technology.  


Edited by Jon L - 2/2/13 at 8:42pm
post #2444 of 2699
Quote:
Originally Posted by leftnose View Post

 

Thanks.  I played around with the button assignments and the trouble is that the setting are the same for both standard and live view shooting.  So, I can set back button only-AF as I like for Live View but then, I get back button only AF for standard shooting when I prefer to use the shutter button.  You can't have it one way for standard shooting and another way for live view.  Oh well, I guess I'll learn to live with that.

 

Aaah, I see what you mean.

 

I'm not sure if this works, but if you're not using the * button for anything else you can try assigning it to AF Stop. I'm not sure if that will override another button's AF Start, but if that works, you will be able to hold down the * button to avoid refocussing when you press the shutter button in Live View mode.

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jon L View Post

 

That was the most annoying thing I found initially; however, you can reassign the "playback zoom" function to the "Set" button in the middle of the dial wheel, which you can press with your right thumb when manual-focusing with left hand.  Lifesaver for me personally.

 

Sounds good, unfortunately I already have my Set button assigned to ISO. Makes it convenient for me to change settings without taking the eye off the viewfinder.

post #2445 of 2699
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jon L View Post

Well, I don't know where you are getting that info from.  Although I shoot 5D III, in most tests, the 6D is at least as good (slightly better even) as 5D III for high ISO noise.  There are some side-by-side ISO charts in the review below.  

http://www.the-digital-picture.com/Reviews/Canon-EOS-6D-Digital-SLR-Camera-Review.aspx

As for Nikon, most comparisons show that the main advantage is the dynamic range of Nikons, mostly in shadows.  Another usual Nikon advantage is the LOW ISO noise (say for iso <400), but at such low iso's, most cameras are plenty clean to begin with anyway IME.  Once looking past Megapixel/resolution, Canons actually tend to be tiny bit better for high ISO noise, and then there are many who feel Canon colors are "better" (subjective of course).  Just what I've consistently noticed in my readings and my 5 cents smile.gif
I don't go by anything I read on the internet. I actually take the cameras in question and actually test them for myself. If you were to take a 5D mk2 and watch how at ISO 400 and higher the colors and detail start to smear. the Mk 3 handles this much better at the same ISO. the 6D is a bit better than the mk2 but no match for the Mk3. teat them for yourself. I've actually seen the differences
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