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Roll Call: Who's building, built, or thinking of building a beta22? - Page 206

post #3076 of 3162
Quote:
Originally Posted by DefQon View Post
 

Two primarys binded together is 230v, you'll use I assume 1 one of them for your location, blue is pos, brown is neg/neutral and gry is ground. These hook up to your IEC connector. Two secondary windings two 30v each with it's own ground/neg but you know where that goes on the s22 board.

So violet will be unused?  Blue will be connected to L, brown to N, and Grey to ground.  Red, yellow to ~ and black and orange to G.  am I understanding you correct? 

post #3077 of 3162
Quote:
Originally Posted by Zashoomin View Post
 

So violet will be unused?  Blue will be connected to L, brown to N, and Grey to ground.  Red, yellow to ~ and black and orange to G.  am I understanding you correct? 

 

No, you'd only get half the VA rating that way. You need to wire the primaries in parallel with 115 V across each.

post #3078 of 3162
Quote:
Originally Posted by joeyjojo View Post
 

DefQon is wrong in his assumption. Assuming you live somewhere with a 115 V mains supply you want to wire the primaries in parallel (BLU and VIO live, GRY and BRN neutral). Not 100% sure on the secondaries ...

 

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by Zashoomin View Post
 

So violet will be unused?  Blue will be connected to L, brown to N, and Grey to ground.  Red, yellow to ~ and black and orange to G.  am I understanding you correct? 

 

Sorry Joey is right, primary 115vac windings in parallel for 120vac AC countries, for some reason I looked at it as a multi-tap transformer with 230vac windings as well which is what I'm use to.

 

For secondary the 2 30v's it will be translated to 30 - 0 - 30, 0v center-tapped with orange and black tied together but the s22 does this for you. 

 

I've had a bit to drink to night so take my advice with a grain of salt.


Edited by DefQon - 10/29/13 at 2:42am
post #3079 of 3162

Thank you both for your help so lets see if I can't get this right this time.  So grey brown are connected to E, blue violet to N, black orange to G, and red yellow to ~.

post #3080 of 3162
Blue is positive wire, N is neg.
post #3081 of 3162
What gain did you opt for with your b22?

Those ELNA Tonerex cap's look bit different to some of the ones I've been using, what uf/v rating are they, or even better source?


Got those from digikey, I can't remember the voltage rating off hand, they are either 50 volt or 63 volt, pretty sure they are 63 volt, 4700uf.

I went with a standard build, 3 channel 8x gain
post #3082 of 3162
So there are 4 pads on the S22. In order ~, G, G, ~. I assume ~ is signal and G is ground. also when I look at my IEC connector there is L, N and Ground. I have no idea which wires should connect to what parts.

That wiring looks the same as the trial I used, if you have 115 volt mains then here is what I did:

Hook blue and violet together, hook grey and brown together. These will go to your hot and neutral from your power cord. I'm not sure witch one is witch or if it even matters ( it is AC after all ?) but I put the wires with the dot (blue and violet) to the hot leg.

Then for the output, I wired it with the red and orange wires on the center two terminals , these are ground and connected to eachother on the board, then yellow and black for the outer two connections, again as it's AC I don't think it matters witch goes where in the board.
post #3083 of 3162
Actually, looking at it now, possibly the wires with the dots ( 0 volt labeled on the output ) should be connected to the neutral in the mains in? As it's AC and basically a long coil of wire I can't see how it could matter but I'm not an AC guy so please feel free to educate me !
post #3084 of 3162

I agree, Brown is Live and Blue is Neutral.  I have a few toroids and all of them have the dot marked on the neutral side.

 

Secondary side isnt critical however keeping the convention of dots to the neutral side keeps the AC in phase with mains.

 

Black and Orange 0v wires are 100% without doubt the secondary, do not connect them to mains!

post #3085 of 3162
Thanks mcandmar, I was wondering about that last night, I'll make sure to change it.

What sized fuse would you recommend for a 100va triac? Mine is rated for ~ 2 amps output, I need to look at the specs again but I'm guessing input current ( once stabilized) will be less than that (70-80%?) . I'm thinking a 2 amp would be a good starting point? All I have now is a 3 amp, but I'm thinking it would take a pretty good short to pop that.
To be clear I am taking about the mains fuse.
post #3086 of 3162

The peak current will be on initial power up, especially if there is a lot of capacitance in your circuit that needs to charge up.  There is also the debate of slow blow vs fast blow fuses.  I cant see the load of this being anything like a few amps so a 2amp fuse will probably be fine. Certainly a good place to start, the worst that can happen is you pop a few fuses if they are rated to low. To be honest diyAudio is the best place to ask such questions, far more knowledgeable people than i..

post #3087 of 3162

AppleMark


here is a pic from the assembly, boards are now complete except the Fets, it will be a couple of weeks till i can start on it again, once it is set up i will start planning the enclosure, thinking a mix of exotic wood and aluminum.

post #3088 of 3162

Just completed my first beta 22 build.  It sounds fantastic and is definately an upgrade from my current amp.  Thank you to all those that helped me. 

 

post #3089 of 3162
Thinking about a 2 channel B22 or a KSA5 build. Waiting for boards..... Got all the chassis stuff in and parts inbound. Should be fun!
post #3090 of 3162
Is the bottom one off ebay? I think I have one of those lying aroubd, not sure what size are yours but the ones on ebay can only allow up to 3 boards max on a e22 backplane, 4 boards for balanced won't fit.
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