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Help with EAGLE CMoy design, please =) - Page 2

post #16 of 132
Thread Starter 
Yeah I been reading that page ALOT

How can I edit Tangent's TLE2426 library? when I open it in EAGLE its just blank.

NM I got it now.
post #17 of 132
Thread Starter 
Is Tangent's TLE2426CLP pins correct? and package correct? I can't tell where pin 1 is on the package, I can see the left most one is PAD1 but is IN, OUT or COM?

edit: I edited Tangents TLE2426 library for my liking.
post #18 of 132
Thread Starter 
When designing your own Library Pakage, do you design the part like if you were looking at from the top or from bottom?
post #19 of 132
Thread Starter 
What type of package does Digi-Key send of the TLE2426CLP? is it straight leads or formed leads?
post #20 of 132
When i ordered TLE2426CLP I received formed leads,however. this was some time ago.

You may get straight leads or formed leads it should not matter which you receive. The pre-formed leads just make it some what easier to align with the holes Vs the non formed leads which you will have to adjust on your on.
post #21 of 132
Quote:
Originally Posted by Joshatdot View Post
When designing your own Library Pakage, do you design the part like if you were looking at from the top or from bottom?
I'm going to move this question over to the General Eagle help thread
post #22 of 132
Thread Starter 

Finished Schematic & Board

Finished Schematic & Board

I used custom ALPS Pot, Vashay Caps, 3.5mm Jacks, TLE2426 libraries (maybe another or two, how can I check what Library files I used?). On Error Check I only got:

Code:
EAGLE Version 4.16r2 Copyright (c) 1988-2006 CadSoft

WARNING: Sheet 1/1: POWER Pin ALPS_RK097G$1 S2 connected to V+
WARNING: Sheet 1/1: POWER Pin ALPS_RK097G$1 S1 connected to V+

Board and schematic are consistent

    0 errors
    2 warnings
I have not inserted Pads/Holes for the Optional R5 resistor, should I?

Designed for:

Hammond Extruded Aluminum w/Metal Panels, Model # 1455C1201. I am pretty sure it'll fit in a Altoids tin too. It should measure 2.00" x 1.90"
- Digi-Key HM890-ND

ALPS RK097 Pot w/switch
- Order the one from Tangent

CUI Inc 3.5mm Right Angle Stereo Jacks, Model # SJ1-3533
- Digi-Key CP1-3533-ND

Vashay BC Metalized Polypropylene Film Caps, Package is good for 0.30uF to 1.1uF
- Digi-Key 2222 416 11005-ND (1.0uF 63VDC)

TLE2426
- Digi-Key 296-1994-ND




Go here for my Project Files
http://www.cnw.com/~josh/Head-Fi/
post #23 of 132
Are you planning on making this yourself, or getting it professionally made?

In either case, it looks like it couldn't possibly hurt to make the trace widths a LOT wider. R varies inversely in proportion to the are of the conductor, so a larger trace = a lower resistance. Also means MUCH better results if you're making it yourself, as the DIY PCB manufacturing processes aren't extremely accurate.

Also, it looks like you could also tighten up the layout a lot. Seems like there's a bunch of empty space on the board.

Just my two cents, and my experience with my own DIY Cmoy board.
post #24 of 132
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ikrit42 View Post
Are you planning on making this yourself, or getting it professionally made?

In either case, it looks like it couldn't possibly hurt to make the trace widths a LOT wider. R varies inversely in proportion to the are of the conductor, so a larger trace = a lower resistance. Also means MUCH better results if you're making it yourself, as the DIY PCB manufacturing processes aren't extremely accurate.

Also, it looks like you could also tighten up the layout a lot. Seems like there's a bunch of empty space on the board.

Just my two cents, and my experience with my own DIY Cmoy board.
At my school, they have the ability to make custom PCB's, I hope they can use the files from EAGLE. I'll make the traces wider, thanks for the tip. I might tweak the parts around some, but so far I am happy.
post #25 of 132
One suggestion, beyond the others regarding trace width, etc. You have alot of traces routed on the top. If you were to make the top layer a ground plane (polygon tool, name it GND or whatever you have the virtual ground signal named), you could get by with traces on the bottom layer only (doable for a Cmoy... sometimes you have to place vias and run traces on the top as well, but try to avoid that if possible). Do a search on Guzzler's board (Gmoy) for an example. I think I have the board files for that, but it may have been converted into an A47.
post #26 of 132
Very nice, Joshatdot...there seems to be the same few of us posting in all the same DIY/CMoy threads as of late

That reminds me, I'm going to take pictures in a few minutes of the CMoy I just completed.
post #27 of 132
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Pars View Post
One suggestion, beyond the others regarding trace width, etc. You have alot of traces routed on the top. If you were to make the top layer a ground plane (polygon tool, name it GND or whatever you have the virtual ground signal named), you could get by with traces on the bottom layer only (doable for a Cmoy... sometimes you have to place vias and run traces on the top as well, but try to avoid that if possible). Do a search on Guzzler's board (Gmoy) for an example. I think I have the board files for that, but it may have been converted into an A47.
I would like to do that, but I dont know how. To tell you the truth, I used the Auto Route in EAGLE. No way I could do the routes my self, ATM.
post #28 of 132
Thread Starter 

Board Design #2 .. abit smaller

Board Design #2 .. abit smaller


I tightened up the board some, it's now 2.0" x 1.5". I don't know how to make the traces/routes thicker.

Should I add the Optional R5 resistor?

Here's the new board:

post #29 of 132
To make the traces wider, ue the WIDTH command, and pick a width. 0.04 seems to be pretty good (IIRC). Don't use the autorouter... route manually. It won't work for more complicated things anyhow.
post #30 of 132
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Pars View Post
To make the traces wider, ue the WIDTH command, and pick a width. 0.04 seems to be pretty good (IIRC). Don't use the autorouter... route manually. It won't work for more complicated things anyhow.
I changed the width of all the routes to the next size up, but that made board errors. I need to move stuff around cause there are traces in between teeny-tiny places that if thicker they'll bridge.
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