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New Millett Hybrid Maxed Amp - Page 177

post #2641 of 6401
Quote:
just don't forget R1 like I did
Done! Thanks Tobias

tomb

Yes I'm using the 2SC2238/2SA968 combo. I'm gonna read your post a few times to make sure I don't screw up when I finally will fire it up.

Regards
post #2642 of 6401
regardless of the amp at hand , the first power up is ALWAYS a bit of a nervewracking step! more often than not it goes well though! best of luck
Quote:
Originally Posted by GeWa View Post
Done! Thanks Tobias

tomb

Yes I'm using the 2SC2238/2SA968 combo. I'm gonna read your post a few times to make sure I don't screw up when I finally will fire it up.

Regards
post #2643 of 6401
Quote:
Originally Posted by GeWa View Post
Almost there. I'm just a bit scared to fire it up though
Oh yeah, today I bought myself an AKG K-701, hope the two will match together.

Regards
are those socket strips in the RB14 positions? I'm guessing you already know this, but don't forget to put either a jumper or a resistor (preferably HQ boutique like a Kiwame) in there, or you won't get any sound at the output!
post #2644 of 6401
good eye, x2 on that
post #2645 of 6401
@Gewa

You forgot the most important part. the LED at the tube socket.

Good Luck!!
post #2646 of 6401
Quote:
Originally Posted by pinkfloyd4ever View Post
are those socket strips in the RB14 positions?
Are those simply chopped up IC sockets, or actual "resistor sockets"?

I was actually going to do the same thing to compare Kiwame vs Riken.
post #2647 of 6401
ha, I dunno it's not my project, but I don't think there are sockets made specifically for resistors. They look like either one side of a DIP IC socket with all the actual sockets other than at the ends removed from the housing, or a SIP socket strip with the same deal, all but the sockets at each end removed from the casing they come in
post #2648 of 6401
@ferds

There are no LED's underneath the tube sockets. Power LED will be integrated in the front panel (3mm flat white LED).

@pinkfloyd4ever and slowpogo

Those are indeed "chopped up" IC sockets. Probably I will end up with two pieces of silver wire anyway but doing it like this gives room to experiment.

Regards
post #2649 of 6401
Quote:
Originally Posted by IcantHearU View Post
I did the same thing - doh - Then I couldn't wait for the delivery, so I ran to Radio Shack and picked up their 25.2volt 2 amp trafo (not plug in, wired) for $10 or so - works fine, but it's huge,ugly and I have nothing to case it up in as of now - but if you can't wait...
Ah, thanks for the tip! Rat Shack carries an 18/24vac walwart for $22, but your post reminded me of the 25v torroid in my M^3 power supply. I'll give that a shot tonight. Hopefully I can breathe life into my Millett!
post #2650 of 6401
Quote:
Originally Posted by GeWa View Post
Almost there. I'm just a bit scared to fire it up though
Oh yeah, today I bought myself an AKG K-701, hope the two will match together.

Regards
If you use a can't miss build from TomBs web site, the K701s will make you very happy. Thats what I use most of the time.
post #2651 of 6401

All part ordered, Almost.

Ok I ordered all the parts from mouser to build 2 Millet Max's. Parts should arrive on tuesday. All parts from the BOM on the MM site. I still need to order pot/tubes. I know I can get the pot from Amb or Tangents site.

Where should I order the tubes and sockets? Any recomendations for store and also what type I should get? My main headphones are ATH-A900LTD. I would like at least one set for low gain. Thanks for any pointers.

James
post #2652 of 6401
Tom recommended Vacuumtubes.net to me a little while ago. My last purchase was from Radio Daze, and they were great. I think they were running out of the tubes we used.. I think we killed them :P I got the gold plated sockets from parts conneXion along with some black gates and RCA jacks I think.. I need more tubes too..
Tom maybe you should get a big box of tubes and sockets for your front too?

From the max site(here):
There are 3 tubes commonly referenced for the Millett and Millett MAX:
# 12AE6 (later version: 12AE6A) .... basic amplification factor of 14
# 12FM6 ............................................... basic amplification factor of 10
# 12FK6 ............................................... basic amplification factor of 7

FKs are probably your best bet. I'm not sure how sensitive your cans are, but at 40ohm, the FKs should be fine. I'm not sure about the sonic differences, but supposedly the FK's are favorable in most ways.. I'm sure someone else could elaborate more..
post #2653 of 6401
Great post as usual, ruZZ.il - and very informative, too!

Nah, I'll leave tubes to the guys who know it best. Being able to keep track of old tubes, purchasing from liquidating stores, old estate sales, etc., etc. - that kind of salvage and scavenging takes a special talent. I mightily respect what these tube vendors do. The fact that they are willing to fool with us and our little $3-$5 tubes is even more amazing.

So, ya'll please keep that in mind when you're dealing with the vacuumtubes.net's, Radio Daze's, etc. of the world. They probably exert the utmost patience when they receive a request for "2 - GE's with halo top getters in original boxes that are matched" - or whatever else one of you may specify (myself included in the past).

I suppose if you're paying $5 or more for a Millett tube, then maybe that buys you the right to specify a preference. However, I've taken to buying what I can get - then picking out the good from the bad. Hopefully, we can keep the vendors that do supply us, happy - so that they'll continue to purchase and supply us with more of these tubes.
post #2654 of 6401
Speaking of tube sockets...I apologize if this info is on the Max site and I'm missing it (and search is too massive), but what's the tried and true procedure for removing the center part of the socket so the LEDs can shine through?
post #2655 of 6401
i used plier or cutter plier to removed the "rivet" in the center of the socket. Then i used superglue or epoxy to bond them together. HTH
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