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New Millett Hybrid Maxed Amp - Page 9

post #121 of 6564
5/19/07 at 2:45am
Quote:
Originally Posted by TBomb06 View Post
Is it necessary to use a switching jack in order for the muting circuit to work properly, or would it be possible to just run wires from the tip and ring leads on the jack to the spots on the board?
The switch is in the relay - no special jack required. If you used two jacks, you could make one of them a switching jack so that the other was switched out in use, but that's not really necessary: the MAX has enough power to run more than one headphone at a time.

As for the Elna's, its often covenient to order several at once, as Naamanf says. However, I'm a big proponent of Panasonic FM's out of the signal path. Those are hard to beat. Boutiques are definitely warranted for CA7 and CA2.
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post #122 of 6564
5/19/07 at 10:35am
Quote:
Originally Posted by TBomb06 View Post
What height heatsinks are those? I noticed in your photos on DIY Forums of the end panels all fabbed up (looks good, BTW ) that the heatsinks come right up to where the top would be, if it were on.
I used the 1.5" heatsinks on the buffers and the voltage regulator. No worries about heat. I'm biased at about 250mV right now, or 113.6mA! Very Nice.
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post #123 of 6564
5/19/07 at 2:27pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by tomb View Post
The switch is in the relay - no special jack required. If you used two jacks, you could make one of them a switching jack so that the other was switched out in use, but that's not really necessary: the MAX has enough power to run more than one headphone at a time.

As for the Elna's, its often covenient to order several at once, as Naamanf says. However, I'm a big proponent of Panasonic FM's out of the signal path. Those are hard to beat. Boutiques are definitely warranted for CA7 and CA2.
Thanks! So I could just use a Neutrik locking jack and run wires to the tip, ring, and ground?

Also, what kind of boutique film caps are most people using for CA9, and if you use a 1000uF cap in CA2 do you need to use a bigger cap than the .22uF one?
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post #124 of 6564
5/19/07 at 5:28pm
The group buy has started at Headwize.
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post #125 of 6564
5/19/07 at 7:33pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by regal View Post
The group buy has started at Headwize.
Uh, it's also here at Head-Fi. Check the sig.
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post #126 of 6564
5/19/07 at 7:36pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by TBomb06 View Post
Thanks! So I could just use a Neutrik locking jack and run wires to the tip, ring, and ground?

Also, what kind of boutique film caps are most people using for CA9, and if you use a 1000uF cap in CA2 do you need to use a bigger cap than the .22uF one?
The production boards have terminal block pads next to the jack pads. So, wiring in an additional jack will be a snap.

No, you don't need to use a bigger film cap than the 0.22uF one. However, the pads/space are 50% bigger there than at the other 0.22uF pads. So, a much larger film cap can be used, including some nice boutiques. It's up to you, but the 0.22 Wima's will sound great. The big thing is upsizing that electrolytic - I believe it makes a big difference in bass slam.
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post #127 of 6564
5/19/07 at 10:20pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by tomb View Post
The production boards have terminal block pads next to the jack pads. So, wiring in an additional jack will be a snap.

No, you don't need to use a bigger film cap than the 0.22uF one. However, the pads/space are 50% bigger there than at the other 0.22uF pads. So, a much larger film cap can be used, including some nice boutiques. It's up to you, but the 0.22 Wima's will sound great. The big thing is upsizing that electrolytic - I believe it makes a big difference in bass slam.
Sorry mate, I guess I was pretty vague originally...the reason I was inquiring about the headphone jack is that I would like to use a Neutrik locking jack in place of the jack on the BOM, the one that the board is designed around. So, just one headphone jack, and a Neutrik locking jack instead of the Neutrik switching jack listed on the BOM. I'd also like to connect the jack and the ALPS using wire rather than directly on the PCB, that way I have plenty of flexibility when mounting them (mainly so I can vertically center them on the front panel).

I plan on using the Nichicon Muse ES for the electrolytics in the signal path, and going with 1000uF in place of the 220uF one. I've read that those have the best bass If you think the Wima's on the BOM will work fine, then I will use those
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post #128 of 6564
5/20/07 at 5:16pm
Can't wait for the boards!!!!!!!!

Will someone make some kind of assembly guide for noobs??? This will be my first tube DIY, and I'm unsure about a few things, specially voltages/currents for the tubes and the type/brand.

Also............ any recommended book to learn the basic principles of tubes???

This will be very funny...... I hope
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post #129 of 6564
5/20/07 at 5:47pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Alcaudon View Post
Can't wait for the boards!!!!!!!!

Will someone make some kind of assembly guide for noobs??? This will be my first tube DIY, and I'm unsure about a few things, specially voltages/currents for the tubes and the type/brand.

Also............ any recommended book to learn the basic principles of tubes???

This will be very funny...... I hope
I've used mb3k's guides, and hopefully he could make one for the MHM
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post #130 of 6564
5/20/07 at 11:53pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by JLMaestro View Post
I've used mb3k's guides, and hopefully he could make one for the MHM
I think you'll be pleased with what Tom (tomb) has come up with for the MAX build. He's put some serious time and effort into it and it shows. Nothing against mb3k's guides of course, they are wonderfully put together as well.
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post #131 of 6564
5/21/07 at 9:03am
There are a couple of sections still under development, but here it is:

http://www.diyforums.org/MAX
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post #132 of 6564
5/21/07 at 9:27am
Nice work tomb. Thanks.

Question on the neutrik jack though. I have a couple sitting here and have been wondering how you solder it directly to the board. Mine have 6 lugs, not pins. Is there a version with pins?
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post #133 of 6564
5/21/07 at 9:45am
Quote:
Originally Posted by odoe View Post
Nice work tomb. Thanks.

Question on the neutrik jack though. I have a couple sitting here and have been wondering how you solder it directly to the board. Mine have 6 lugs, not pins. Is there a version with pins?
Yes, this is a heritage part from the revMH Millett and has been used for quite awhile. It is available at Mouser. Check the part# in the BOM on the site.
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post #134 of 6564
5/21/07 at 9:52am
Wow!!!!! Just............ impressive!!!!!

Many thanks for this, tomb, it's a great work. Very nice logo too, I'll probably use it on the casing (if you don't mind, of course ).
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post #135 of 6564
5/21/07 at 1:56pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Alcaudon View Post
Wow!!!!! Just............ impressive!!!!!

Many thanks for this, tomb, it's a great work. Very nice logo too, I'll probably use it on the casing (if you don't mind, of course ).
Thanks for the kind words. No, I don't mind - as long as you don't alter it in anyway. Team Millett MAX has a quality standard to uphold.

One of Pete Millett's guiding premises that started the Millett activity was freely sharing with the community. Maybe we can make some money on the T-shirts, though. Nate?
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