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My Musiland M-10 Arrived! 56K!! - Page 2

post #16 of 72
Thread Starter 
I have been infected with DIY and MODDING bugs for long time now! In fact that's how I landed here. Searching for DIY projects! Anyway it has almost broke me. And god forbid me.......!!!
post #17 of 72
Thread Starter 
It passed the 50hr mark in burning! There are some significant sonic improvements! My idea was to compare it unmodded at 50hrs with 50hr-burnt modded one. It would take some time for me to receive parts. So I will burn it till that time to have full impressions. Bass has improved now to my liking! Still has some upfront uppermids, though there is little refinement!
post #18 of 72
Hey there. Out of interest, have you compared using the Musiland direct via USB and using it fed via coax/toslink optical input?
post #19 of 72
Thread Starter 
No I didn't! Have you? I presumed OPTICAL TOSLINK is superior to USB!
post #20 of 72
Thread Starter 
OK! I received LM4562 today (SOIC)!!! Now the DAC is burnt for 70 hours. I got RUBYCONs and UF4007 too. But as now the M10 is already burnt with its passive parts for 70 hours I decided to go in two steps.

I will first swap OPAMPS and see how it affects sound in originally burnt DAC. In the second stage I will replace passive parts (Caps and diodes)

So I did the dreaded! In brand-new DAC with SMD SOIC OP275 to be replaced with LM4562.

I did it!! Wow Am I pleasantly surprised?? I am off to listen this almost new DAC!

Pictures and impressions tommorrow!!
post #21 of 72
Out of interest...where did you get those replacement parts and what costs are involved? Also, is there much difficulty and/or risk in replacing them?

X
post #22 of 72
Thread Starter 
LM4562 cost me only 10US$ for shipping as I got them from National semiconductor sample program.
For Rubicaon ZL capacitors and UF4007 ultrafast diodes I spent about 50US$.
Swapping the OPAMP needs experiance as it involves SMD desoldering and soldering skills. The PCB part where the OPAMP is fixed is bit delicate. Replacing diodes and caps will be easy task if you have basic soldering skills.
post #23 of 72
Thanks for the update. I'm following this with much interest as I like my Musiland, but improvements are always welcome.
post #24 of 72
Thread Starter 
Short update: I think LM4562 is wonerful in Musiland as it performs in most audio gear. DC offet is 10-12 mv. Excellent!
It almost corrects MD10's flaws in sound. More laterally expanded, deep soundstage with resolution. Better Bass and neutral frequency response. It attenuated the prominence in upper mids. But MD10 is very specific regarding input material. (As expecTed with a good source) If sound material are upfront it gives upfront sound. If the recording is laid back it gives laid back sound.
LM4562 seems to have corrected MD10s overall upfront presentation to more neutral kind of sound. But still there is tinge of upfront nature. Most striking feature is more resolution. Obviously LM4563 has THD of 0.00003% compared to OP275's 0.0006%!

I will update first post of the review, when I finish tweaking M10! With full impressions comparing the modded with stock.
post #25 of 72
Thank you, looking forward to your additional comments.
post #26 of 72
Thread Starter 
OK! All the MODs done except for bypassing AC filter! I do not think there is a need for it!

LM4562, UF4007 diodes and all RUBICON ZL capacitors



LM4562



Replaced parts



Ahh! Almost a new DAC soundwise! Most impressive thing is improvement of transients. Decay, attack and speed of all frequencies improved. Bass is most impressive. There is oomph nature and punch to bass notes. Expanded sound-stage, Better bass flat frequency response and more details can easily be appreciated. I think improved transients are mostly due to fast diodes and better audio grade capacitors.
Well worth my efforts and I am very happy. Now I should burn it for 50 hours and write up a full review.
Few tips for those trying mods! The solder pads for both diodes and capacitors are very delicate and will come off very easily. I have been able to secure all of them with patience. Please use a good desoldering braid to suck as much as solder when desoldering! I used a very good 8mm braid. Suction is difficult due to the type of solder they used!
post #27 of 72
wow! looks great, you've done a great job.. i've been thinking of getting a md10, how difficult do you think it would be to mod it? for someone with a little bit of soldering experience, but nothing that small..
post #28 of 72
Thread Starter 
It is not difficult, if you have patience when doing the desoldering. Soldering new parts is very easy compared to desoldering. But I think it is worth the effort. I am very impressed with modded sound. Sound-stage is very big now.

If you buy it just e-mail Yelzin! He was very helpful and did everything to avoid additional charges shipping it to UK.
post #29 of 72
hmm, kind of interested toward the mod
One question though. can you compare the moded version with a higher level source, for example, A benchmark DAC1 or Stello DA100 @_@
post #30 of 72
Thread Starter 
If someone sends me a high-end DAC I will!! Otherwise I will do when I upgrade to Stello DA100 next!
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