When you mention JBL speakers, you are talking my language. My car speakers are JBL, and I would have got the E90's if the missus hadn't objected. I grew up with JBL from very young and quickly got to know their way of doing things. All their speakers still operate on those principles. There is a good reason I mention all this. JBL speakers need current. Lots of it. Feed them properly and the drives units are going to reward you with some very accurate signal levels and dynamics, not to mention bass extensions.
If you were in the UK I would have recommended a Linn LK2 or anything around that range.They produce double their power with each halving of the speaker load impedance. And there is the catch with the JBL drivers. Their load impedance can vary widely during cone excursions. So any amp you decide on should be of discrete components rather than a Power IC of the STK range to name just one. Decent sized caps like 6800uF or more are the minimum if you want the bass to last. Otherwise the bass will be found wanting. It's a common complaint leveled against JBL speakers by those with a less than adequate power dumping amp who then blame the speakers. And one reason why some JBL bargains can be had on eBay.
If you were in the UK I would have recommended a Linn LK2 or anything around that range.They produce double their power with each halving of the speaker load impedance. And there is the catch with the JBL drivers. Their load impedance can vary widely during cone excursions. So any amp you decide on should be of discrete components rather than a Power IC of the STK range to name just one. Decent sized caps like 6800uF or more are the minimum if you want the bass to last. Otherwise the bass will be found wanting. It's a common complaint leveled against JBL speakers by those with a less than adequate power dumping amp who then blame the speakers. And one reason why some JBL bargains can be had on eBay.
