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HD555/H595 mod - Page 3

post #31 of 40
Quote:
Originally Posted by cherepashka View Post
modShade, it's not ripping, it's a well-documented procedure. I've also feared at start, but it's pretty easy. Here's a link(right click-save as...):
http://www.sennheiser.com/sennheiser...ontage_eng.pdf

Whats the point in that? You still have uneven cable lengths between left and right drivers giving you unbalanced timings......I just put a hole into the bottom of the right earphone casing and then soldered the new cable directly to each driver.
post #32 of 40
zbwu I modded my HD595s replaced the stock cable with Belden 1192A StarQuad cable. It's directly soldered to both drivers and I think this cable isn't really what I was looking for. The whole performance suffered, somekind. It sounds flat with almost no bass at all and fatuging.
I can still remember that the bass was one of the major plus points for my 595s.

What cable did you use? And did you recable all cables or just inside the driver enclosure and left stock inner cables?

I'll try your mod tomorrow, nice documentation!
Greetz Ava
post #33 of 40
Dunno why you guys would want to change the 595's, I think the SQ and soundstaging is excellent :-)
post #34 of 40
does removing the inner grill REALLY add that much sound leakage? I mean its just a cheap grill with holes in it, how can that possibly do much to dampen sound. Just wondering, cus i'm debating on removing it also.
post #35 of 40
Heya, thread resurrection, but I want to ask a couple questions in connection with a different set of phones. The questions that are being asked are good ones, and the explanation of sound-stage makes a lot of sense, and it makes me want to mess with my MDR-V6's

1. Based on that idea, would the small sound-stage on these phones be due to the small, closed resonating chamber?
2. Is the thickness or density of the padding proportional to the frequencies absorbed?

3. Application: If I lined the V6 with a highly porous foam, or with a cotton stuffing, would I be able to correct the harsh highs without cutting the lower frequencies?

--EDIT--
another question unrelated to modding: would the sound-stage clues come through better at lower volumes, due to weaker reflections?
post #36 of 40

Just tried the original foam removal mod and hwc's acoustic foam addition. All I can say is wow, I'm glad I tried this before buying a $300 amp (which I'll do anyway biggrin.gif) Unfortunately this makes me wonder... how would my modded HD555s compare to something more exotic now... HD600s, 650s...


Word of warning though, the little screws can really easily be drawn onto the drive unit's surface since it is a strong magnet. It happened to me eek.gif but fortunately after gently pulling it off with some pliers the drive unit reformed to its normal shape and sounds great!

post #37 of 40


 

Quote:
Originally Posted by agentsim View Post

Just tried the original foam removal mod and hwc's acoustic foam addition. All I can say is wow, I'm glad I tried this before buying a $300 amp (which I'll do anyway biggrin.gif) Unfortunately this makes me wonder... how would my modded HD555s compare to something more exotic now... HD600s, 650s...


Word of warning though, the little screws can really easily be drawn onto the drive unit's surface since it is a strong magnet. It happened to me eek.gif but fortunately after gently pulling it off with some pliers the drive unit reformed to its normal shape and sounds great!


I am curious, I have the 555's and did the foam removal mod, however hwc's mod is basically putting foam back inside the cans.   What is the difference between the foam that was already in the 555's compared to the foam that the hwc mod calls for?

 

Seems to me the original foam inside the 555's is the best kind to use, since it is the typical absorbing/damping material that is used in many audio products to damp the reflections.  So if removing the foam from the 555's sounds so good, then why is putting foam back in there supposed to be such a good thing?  It is basically a contradiction.

 

post #38 of 40
Quote:
Originally Posted by leukoplast View Post


 


I am curious, I have the 555's and did the foam removal mod, however hwc's mod is basically putting foam back inside the cans.   What is the difference between the foam that was already in the 555's compared to the foam that the hwc mod calls for?

 

Seems to me the original foam inside the 555's is the best kind to use, since it is the typical absorbing/damping material that is used in many audio products to damp the reflections.  So if removing the foam from the 555's sounds so good, then why is putting foam back in there supposed to be such a good thing?  It is basically a contradiction.

 



The foam you removed was very thick and absorbed low frequencies (as well as high-frequencies I guess.) The foam you add back in is very very light weight. It lets low frequencies pass through (keeping the effect of the first mod intact) but blocks higher frequencies progressively more efficiently, the higher the frequency the more it blocks. The light foam should diminish the effect of higher frequencies bouncing of the hard plastic surfaces behind the driver and entering your ear a little later than they should have.

 

I found that the first mod improved SQ significantly, the second mod is much more subtle, you only really notice it on harsh treble sounds. Also, I have found my HD555s took a lot longer to burn in than I expected, now that they have had about 100 hours, they are sounding really good.

post #39 of 40

Resurrection! 

 

I've had my 555's for 4 years and I love them. I figure I might as well have a go at modding them since it's time for an upgrade anyway. I've had the basic foam mod since I got them, so I want to go a step further and foam up the rear casing and perhaps do some wiring.

 

I'd like to hear some impressions from people who have 'equalised' the wiring to the drivers. As it stands they are unequal in length, as a wire runs through the strap over to the right ear. It seems people have made them equidistant by boring a hole into the right cup.

 

-Why not simply extent the wiring to the left driver, to make it equal to that on the right side, essentially just adding extra wire onto the right side?

-Does equalising the length of wiring dramatically improve sound quality?

 

My other question is regarding the assault of nail clippers and knives on the plastic honeycombing. Looking at that honeycombing, I really don't see it impeding air flow all that much. The only problem with it would be reflections on the treble end.

-So, I don't see any point in chopping it out if light foam can do a good job at cutting out those reflections.

-What foam should I use?

 

(There are so few 555 threads around here it's weird. If anyone has experimented with these cans recently please share your findings.)

 

Cheers!

post #40 of 40

Oh by the way, I've found that 555's can benefit HUGELY from some aggressive EQing.

 

To my ears the 555's have very muddy mids that spill all over the place ruining the clarity of the trebs and precision of the bass. The mids are actually really terrible on these cans, this is how I make them behave themselves:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Not a scientific setting by any means. But this is what my ears like after about 3 hours of tuning. I find this gives them a much more 'reference' cleanliness. Try and see what you think. This EQ sounds particularly good for EDM. Nice and crunchy exciting sound.

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