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Hotrodding the X-Fi: A Layman's Guide (No 56k) - Page 67

post #991 of 2194
^I believe the Auzentech Prelude should run somewhere around $200, making it a bit pricey when you consider the fact that a fully modded XtremeMusic would still run under $100

anyways, I thought I'd comment on National Semiconductor's sample LM4562 OpAmps and their level of service...and to sum it all up in one word, it would be remarkable.

I ordered three sample OpAmps on a Thursday (at around 1AM mind you) and selected the quickest shipping/handling option that was available, as I was in a hurry to get them soon before I left town. Incredibly, the quickest option I chose resulted in National Semiconductor sending me the OpAmps via UPS Next Day Air, and I received them on Friday at 9AM. total cost of this endeavor? zilch, after using my school (educational) email address. It was unbelievable, I never expected this level of business and customer service.

3 LM4562MA samples + UPS Next Day Air = $0.00 + extremely happy customer
post #992 of 2194
guys.... help me....

i'm using:
1 BLKGATE- NX 1000uF 25v
4 BLKGATE- NX Hi-Q 22uF 6.3v
8 BLKGATE- Std 22uF 16v
3 LM4562MA
1 AD8066ARZ

when i set spdif on and dolby dynamic range to maximum... i got crackle whenever large booming or screeching sound occurs on movie.
it only happens in movie....
any help?
post #993 of 2194
I have been reading this thead looking for some information on how to stick the ERS paper on?

It needs to be insulated, so I am planning to stick the ERS paper to some non-conductive ESD foam. How can I attach this to the card though? I could just let it rest (the solder joints will keep it in place) but...
post #994 of 2194
spray adhesive
post #995 of 2194
Originally Posted by soloz2 View Post
spray adhesive
Wouldn't that trash the card though?

I'm thinking maybe a bit of electrical tape or something. The photos on the forum don't really show anything though.
post #996 of 2194
Originally Posted by mojo View Post
Wouldn't that trash the card though?

I'm thinking maybe a bit of electrical tape or something. The photos on the forum don't really show anything though.
As long as the stuff you use isn't conductive and you don't use a lot you'll be alright.
post #997 of 2194
ERS paper has given quite a few people Negative returns when used for soundcards. In fact some have said it noticeably degrades sound quality. If this paper keeps EMI/RFI out of the card from other sources it will keep these negative interferences from escaping from the card and will just be reflected back into the circuitry. Atleast that is how it should work. I figure if your gonna use it, shield the card but leave some space between the card and the paper, a few inches...
If you can put the card in the bottom slot and use the paper to make a barrier between the card and the rest of the mobo... If you understand what I mean.
This will probably give you the best results without too much negative impact on sound.
post #998 of 2194
One of the other mods I did to my X-Fi card, besides D.C. coupling, was bypass the power supply caps. I bypassed the large one 220uf with 3.3uf metalized film & the 2 power supply caps closest to the D.A. converter with 3.3uf metalized film caps. This improves the dynamics across the board, from the highest treble well into the bass. I believe this has much more effect than replacing the electrolytics with any kind of higher grade electrolytic including the black gates. I venture to say that it would even trump the opamp replacement. The distortion level of the JRC opamp while nothing to write home about is not of any real consequence either. Much more improvement can be had elsewhere soundwise without compromizing it's ability to drive headphones to a reasonable level. The highest distortion componant with my soundcard set up the way it is is below -100db for THD & below -90 DB for the TID. Niether of these distortion levels would be audible. .0012% THD is not going to be any more audible than .00006%. Both are well below the hearing threshhold.

The thing with the antielectrostatic paper backed with foam is the glue used to hold it to the soundcard can have negative effects on the sound (loss of detail & fuzziness to the sound in some cases at least temporarely anyway).

These are besides the D.C. coupling mods.
post #999 of 2194
I suppose the thing to do is lay it on top and do some ABX testing with and without.

BTW, the card is an Onkyo SE-200PCI. I will mainly be using the optical out to a C.E.C. DA53, and the analogue out to monitors for casual listening and games.
post #1000 of 2194
any pic of your mod?
post #1001 of 2194
so,would anyone mod the x-fi for me when the need arises?Are there people who do it for others?
post #1002 of 2194
Originally Posted by cadobhuk View Post
so,would anyone mod the x-fi for me when the need arises?Are there people who do it for others?
well me too... but i live on different continent in a country which has suck-ass shipment custom.
post #1003 of 2194
I did mine with 5xLM4562, 1xRubycon 1200uf 16v ZL.

Can't really tell the difference....
post #1004 of 2194
not until u hear the default X-Fi
post #1005 of 2194
I've done a lot of reading here and elsewhere, but after so long, time to get a final answer from the pros . Also will point out now I only plan to do the regulation op-amp and power cap mod.

A capacitor question.

Originally Posted by hardnrg View Post
(M) stands for Matsu****a, brands include Technics and Panasonic - i.e. one of the best capacitor brands, up there with Nichicon and Rubycon
Like many others, needed a Blackgate alternative, and researched Nichicon and Rubycon being mentioned in this thread with a good rep. Eventually ordered the 2200uF/16V caps thru Uni and recently received them; a Rubycon ZL, and 5x (minimum order size ) Nichicon HE.
But just today after following the X-Fi thread on my local forums, someone mentioned the Panasonic FM which I've looked at and it has better specs (longer life, lower impedance, higher ripple) and is also cheaper ... go figure . In hindsight I stupidly dismissed this cos I thought the Ruby's and/or Nich's were better, and the Panasonic being a more ... generic-type thing (like good "ideal" ratings but bad reliability/quality in real life).

So I am wondering if it is worth using (upgrading to?) the Panasonic instead?
Cost wise shouldn't matter, but I won't go through the hassle and delay (and the result of having 7 unused big caps), if it won't that much of a difference.

Links to the products and datasheets are here for those who are keen (many thanks ) and need more details:
- Rubycon ZL
- Nichicon HE
- Panasonic FM
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