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Hotrodding the X-Fi: A Layman's Guide (No 56k) - Page 57

post #841 of 2194
I finally received my Black Gates today and soldered it in. If you're having trouble with solder in the holes, heat it up from the back of the board and push the capacitor leg through at the same time. Doing that was much easier than trying to use wick to soak up the solder.
post #842 of 2194
guys, i was wondering...



will it be ok if i change A to 12xNichicon Gold 22uF 50v?
and, will it be ok if i change B to 2xElna Cerafine 1000uf 35v?
since locating blackgate in my country(indonesia) will be hard. and i don't have a cradit card to do international transaction.

as for opamp, i think i go with what phalanger use.

my friend modified his x-fi to this stage:


and it did gave some pleasant results.
he's using 3xOPA2134, 6xNichicon Gold 22mF 50v, and 1xElna Cerafine(dunno about the type tho)

thank you.
post #843 of 2194

Hi Guys

First thanks for this wonderfull guide.

I just want to ask X-Fi xtreme music is no longer avaliable. I heard that is it no longer in production. Will be Creative X-Fi XtremeGamer Fatal1ty Pro as good as Music? Have someone closer info about dac etc...

Thank you very much

Tomas
post #844 of 2194
Thread Starter 
X-Fi XtremeGamer Fatal1ty Pro is the same card is the XtremeMusic, but has that 5.25" bay.

Edit: it also has RAM
post #845 of 2194
At least in Finland I bought a new Xtrememusic week ago. It's available as bulk-packed and the price is between 70-80 euros. It's a shame if they have ended the production of Xtrememusic because the next best thing is the Xtreme Gamer Fatal1ty which has the same board with X-ram. That costs 126 euros.
post #846 of 2194
@cotdt
can u help me with my question above? especially about elna cerafine...
your help will be highly appreciated.
post #847 of 2194
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by djbigbear View Post
@cotdt
can u help me with my question above? especially about elna cerafine...
your help will be highly appreciated.
answer is yes. i've used ELNA Cerafine (the picture is earlier in this thread)
post #848 of 2194
yes.. i did read this thread from page 1 till this page, but i'm not much of a wizz @ audio thingie, so i didn't quite get what u guys talking about (approx 70% of all post)
but that cerafine of yours is humongous.... that's like 10KuF right?

i mean, will it be ok if i use 1000uF 35v instead? and if u look (and please do) at my first pic. i'm planning to swap 2 of those with cerafine.

thank you for your first reply. (i know how exhausting it is to answer noob questions all the time)
post #849 of 2194
Thread Starter 
answer is yes. you can use almost any values you want.
post #850 of 2194
u don't know how happy i am to hear those
it's almost impossible to get blackgate here, even if i can, the price could be tripled or maybe more....

thank you cotdt
post #851 of 2194
djbigbear: your friend's modified card looks weird.. Looks like he left the coupling caps for the main channels alone and replaced *half* of the ones for the surround channels? Those caps are in parallel, replacing half of them in that way would be a pretty undesirable modification. And what's that dark-red cap used for?
post #852 of 2194
I ran into problems. First try I got nothing but noise from the left channel. I resoldered every opamps legs and the sound was fine for couple of minutes. Now the left channel is silent.

Could it be the opamp legs or the 4 coupling capacitors?

Edit: I resoldered the 4 coupling caps and now the sound is fine. Strange thing but thank god it's working now.
post #853 of 2194
Quote:
Originally Posted by phalanger View Post
djbigbear: your friend's modified card looks weird.. Looks like he left the coupling caps for the main channels alone and replaced *half* of the ones for the surround channels? Those caps are in parallel, replacing half of them in that way would be a pretty undesirable modification. And what's that dark-red cap used for?
yes i know his modification is quite weird, and i'm a bit concerned too.
but hey it actually perform better... that's why i thought this thread can make my x-fi even better.

and i'm really interested with your modification phalanger. somehow it looks... promising.

that dark red cap my friend using is elna cerafine and i don't know which type he use. and for the purpose of that red caps.... i'm totally clueless...

so i thought it will be better if i use 2 elna cerafine 1000uF 35v both in his spot and beside the chipset.

as for the caps beside op-amps (i really don't know what are those called) i'll follow your setup but all replaced with Nichicon 22uF 50v instead

can i ask you about the cost to modify your x-fi? i need to calculate my budget since it will be much more expensive here...

thank you phalanger, pardon my grammar
post #854 of 2194
Quote:
Originally Posted by djbigbear View Post
yes i know his modification is quite weird, and i'm a bit concerned too.
but hey it actually perform better... that's why i thought this thread can make my x-fi even better.

and i'm really interested with your modification phalanger. somehow it looks... promising.

that dark red cap my friend using is elna cerafine and i don't know which type he use. and for the purpose of that red caps.... i'm totally clueless...

so i thought it will be better if i use 2 elna cerafine 1000uF 35v both in his spot and beside the chipset.

as for the caps beside op-amps (i really don't know what are those called) i'll follow your setup but all replaced with Nichicon 22uF 50v instead

can i ask you about the cost to modify your x-fi? i need to calculate my budget since it will be much more expensive here...

thank you phalanger, pardon my grammar
I'm not sure it's a good idea to replace a cap by one with a massively different capacity size, unless you know what that capacitor is there for and that the higher capacity is beneficial (as on the power-capacitor). It looks like its used for the AD-link connector that's near it, so unless you own/use an XFi I/O Console then it's a waste of your time/money either way.

BTW do I see a piece of metalwire over one of the opamps? Did he rip off a connector and hardwire it? I wonder if MrDerrick got his bypass working aswell meanwhile.

As for the cost.. it would depend a lot on what you count..

AD8599's + AD8066 = free
LM4562's = ~10€ (for 2 of them)
Blackgate 1000uF nonpolar = 13€
Blackgate 22uF nonpolar N-type = 4x4.50€
Blackgate 22uF regular = 8x1.30€
desolder wick = ~3€ for a roll that will last several jobs

so a bit over 50€ (=70$) for all upgrades. It could be done significantly cheaper by using less nonpolars as they are quite expensive (worth it though if you can spare the extra $), and using all-free opamps is possible too.
This assumes ofcourse you won't need to buy any additional tools to perform the job.
post #855 of 2194
ahhhhh
more enlightment...

aaah, so that's for front panel... so i just cancel 1 elna cerafine.

i will be using these components:
1 x elna cerafine 1000uf 35v
12 x Nichicon Gold 22uF 50v
2 x AD8599
2 x LM4562
1 x AD8066

and i don't think any of those caps ar nonpolar but it should be fine right?
and i suppose elna cerafine cost waaaay less than black gate....

for modifying, i'd better pay an engineer to do the work... i'm not much of a precision worker... i got very chubby fingers... lol
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