or Connect
Head-Fi.org › Forums › Equipment Forums › Computer Audio › Hotrodding the X-Fi: A Layman's Guide (No 56k)
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:

Hotrodding the X-Fi: A Layman's Guide (No 56k) - Page 32

post #466 of 2194
Quote:
Originally Posted by PPkiller View Post
thanks...

hmm... is blackgate nx 1000uf 25v better then the blackgate std 2200uf 16v(in terms of SQ)?

p.s. i think i'm getting my 3 opamp for free..
the NX would probably be slightly better, but the standard is already a huge upgrade. You don't even need the 2200uf, just get a 1000uf 16v standard. It's smaller so it's easier to work with and it's more then big enough for this application. And it's about half the price of the 2200uf

16v is enough as the card should not ever have more then 12v

Quote:
Originally Posted by PPkiller View Post
cotdt,

what method do you recommend for desoldering the opamp?
I used a heat gun... which works until I get a good desoldering iron... which is really only a matter of time

Quote:
Originally Posted by Seba View Post
I ordered 22uF 25V Elna Silmic II's for replacing the caps near the op-amp. They are 6,3mm diameter so they are definately a little bit wider than the original caps. I think that they will fit just fine or with some little bending.

I don't think they'll be be too hard to place on the board, but I don't think you'll be able to get them to look nice either. the Nichicons I used were 5mm and they fit nice and tight . take a look at the pics I posted a couple pages back if u want.
post #467 of 2194
I looked at the specs for your Nichicon FG caps and they are indeed 5mm thick. Fortunately there are room around the 4 caps so I could bend them outwards. It doesn't matter how they look, priority is in SQ.
post #468 of 2194

Mod finalized

I finally finished up my mod today by replacing the decoupling caps with 22uF/16V Blackgates.

Final pic with all mods in place (for left+right anyway, surround channels maybe some other time.. i dont use them for anything important)



As you can see the BGs are quite a bit bigger then the jamicons they replace, which is why they cant stand up straight but its fine this way.

And for those who hadnt read yet: soldering on this card is a bit crappy cause it spreads heat so well, i had to put my soldering stations temp potmeter in the redzone to get those buggers off properly. I would definately advise against using a 25w iron for the caps (the SOIC is the easiest part of this mod imo)

Im very happy with the result but i already noted that a few posts back.. Happy modding!
post #469 of 2194
It looks like that also 22uF Black Gates are 6,3mm wide so you have proved that it is possible to solder those on the card.

I set my 40W iron at 450 degrees Celsius to solder properly the power cap. Will be using that temp also for op-amp and other caps.
post #470 of 2194
yeah 450 is the hottest mine will go i think, and i had to turn it almost all open to keep the tin melted well enough to remove/insert the caps.

And yeah the 6,3mm caps fit fine.. you can either let the legs stick out a bit so the caps are lifted a bit then lined up neatly but a few mm above the board..
.. or just pull them through as far as they will go like i did and then the last 2 wont really fit nice but atleast they're pretty tight to the board. I preferred this.

For the opamp i used significantly lower temperature setting btw.. not much hotness needed there and the connectors there are easier to damage (if i didn't misread i think someone in this thread did ruin their SOIC connector, though i don't know if heat was the problem.. also unless needed i wouldn't put a 450 celcius iron to the actual SOIC, myself. its not needed to melt tin. I used it about 1/3 the way up for that part of the mod (my station has a temp setting but no numbers on it.. its 175-450 i think) and it went easy (much easier then the caps)
post #471 of 2194
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Fing View Post
I tried this - unfortunately I seem to have pulled out the contact traces on the board when trying to remove the first opamp.

Guess it's buggered ;p
just trace the broken contacts to the nearest capacitor/resistor, and use that instead.
post #472 of 2194
Yeah it should be fixable, wont look pretty but would increase the frankenstein character of it: i recommend you get the biggest power capacitator you can find for it and claim its all on purpose

would you care to share how you managed to remove the contacts along with the IC? Did you try to just rip out the chip or what (sorry not meaning to poke fun at your situation, but please do share so maybe someone else won't do the same)
post #473 of 2194
cotdt: I'm interested in changing the input opamp aswell. Can the same opamp used for the outputs be used here aswell or is a different chip needed (if so, which?)
post #474 of 2194
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by phalanger View Post
would you care to share how you managed to remove the contacts along with the IC? Did you try to just rip out the chip or what (sorry not meaning to poke fun at your situation, but please do share so maybe someone else won't do the same)
get a small snipper and cut off the opamp leg by leg. then desolder the tiny bits of the remains. Yes, you can use the LM4562 as the input opamp as well. It should work well.
post #475 of 2194
Thread Starter 
Filburt tells me that the AD9631 is worth trying. Might be better than the LM4562.
post #476 of 2194
for recording specifically or for output stage aswell? [edit: checked the specs and its for the input position not output from what i gather, thanks for the suggestion, Ill probably order one and give it a try.]

and yes to the precision sidecutter (the best ones for this have 'teeth' that are small enough to insert a mm orso *between* the legs of the SOIC and shaped so the cut takes place at the very lowest point, so that it can cut right at the PCB level and not 1mm above it.. theyre not pointy as to not damage the board, ask your specialist store if you arent sure.
This method is the safest for the soundcard as you dont have to mess with the connectors very long or hot. It is also the best way to not kill the old opamp in cases where that would matter (legs will just be a bit shorter each time )



^ like that (Piergiacomi, 15$ orso maybe 17 but worth it, quality tools are never a bad investment )
post #477 of 2194
Anyone here selling a pre-modded card?
post #478 of 2194
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Vulpix View Post
Anyone here selling a pre-modded card?
I think soloz2 offered to mod them a while back.
post #479 of 2194
yeah, i can sell u a card PM me if you are interested.
post #480 of 2194
I dont understand why people complain about the size of the opamp,
its actually quite large isnt it ?

(atleast in closup haha)

New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:
  Return Home
  Back to Forum: Computer Audio
Head-Fi.org › Forums › Equipment Forums › Computer Audio › Hotrodding the X-Fi: A Layman's Guide (No 56k)