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Hotrodding the X-Fi: A Layman's Guide (No 56k) - Page 132

post #1966 of 2194
Quote:
Originally Posted by kite7 View Post
I just removed the 4 decoupling caps yesterday, pretty much clears up any veil in the sound which is a good change. Should have done this earlier, instead of a year later after replacing the opamps. Seems like the power filter is the last thing for me to change, but from what I've read it doesn't make too big of a difference.
Changing the power filter doesn't really change the sound, but just for reliability, the stock caps tend to fail or lose its spec (capacitance and so on) after certain period of time. Is there any popping and stuff when changing volume after you bypass those decoupling caps?
post #1967 of 2194
Quote:
Originally Posted by Apocalypsee View Post
Changing the power filter doesn't really change the sound, but just for reliability, the stock caps tend to fail or lose its spec (capacitance and so on) after certain period of time. Is there any popping and stuff when changing volume after you bypass those decoupling caps?
Changing volume in windows volume mixer? I'm changing the volume and I don't hear anything strange
post #1968 of 2194
If you bypass the decoupling caps, you will hear loud pops and clicks during PC start up, and when changing creative console mode
post #1969 of 2194
Quote:
Originally Posted by sonci View Post
If you bypass the decoupling caps, you will hear loud pops and clicks during PC start up, and when changing creative console mode
Yes I get those which is no big deal as I don't change modes and I always turn my speakers on after I turn my computer on
post #1970 of 2194
I got my hands on X-Fi Elite Pro a couple of weeks ago, and it indeed an upgrade from XtremeMusic. After been testing it with some opamp, caps replaced and so on, I decided that opampless sounds the best, while the 4 caps shorted with opamp comes second

One thing is, power filter caps doesn't need to be high capacitance, the Elite Pro comes with 220uF Jamicon, I replaced it with same 220uF capacitance but its Rubycon, all I can say its very good. But do use OS-CON on DAC supply, as it gives noticeable sound improvement
post #1971 of 2194
Have you ever considered getting something like a Essence ST or STX? I'm just wonder how much better those sound compared to the x-fi with all the mods
post #1972 of 2194
Yes I am, the ST to be exact. Maybe another months or two. Its not here in Malaysia yet
post #1973 of 2194
Decided to do this mod and failed miserably.

This is my first time soldering so it was difficult at first. I replaced the opamp by cutting the original off with a mini cutter and cleaning it up with desoldering wick. Took me a while to solder the LM4562, but during the operation one of the pads came off. Searched this whole thread to figure out its the V+ power pad, I uploaded some pictures. I tried the soundcard but there was no sound, so I went back and redid the 7 legs, result: very very low volume in left ear, nothing at all in right. My question is, how do I connect the last (8th leg) of the opamp to the board? Somebody mentioned we could solder the leg onto the trace, I'm not sure what that means. Or I could solder it to the 8th pad of a different opamp, one of the surround maybe? Except its too far away and I'm not sure what to do at this point.

I have no idea if there is contact between the legs and the pad, seeing how this is my first soldering attempt. But from the looks of it, even though its messy, the 7 legs seem to be fine. Would a single leg/pad still cause no sound/low volume in one ear?

Here are some pictures
, it would be great if you guys who have done the mod already could give me some pointers. Thanks in advance!
post #1974 of 2194
Quote:
Originally Posted by sailboat View Post
Decided to do this mod and failed miserably.

This is my first time soldering so it was difficult at first. I replaced the opamp by cutting the original off with a mini cutter and cleaning it up with desoldering wick. Took me a while to solder the LM4562, but during the operation one of the pads came off. Searched this whole thread to figure out its the V+ power pad, I uploaded some pictures. I tried the soundcard but there was no sound, so I went back and redid the 7 legs, result: very very low volume in left ear, nothing at all in right. My question is, how do I connect the last (8th leg) of the opamp to the board? Somebody mentioned we could solder the leg onto the trace, I'm not sure what that means. Or I could solder it to the 8th pad of a different opamp, one of the surround maybe? Except its too far away and I'm not sure what to do at this point.

I have no idea if there is contact between the legs and the pad, seeing how this is my first soldering attempt. But from the looks of it, even though its messy, the 7 legs seem to be fine. Would a single leg/pad still cause no sound/low volume in one ear?

Here are some pictures
, it would be great if you guys who have done the mod already could give me some pointers. Thanks in advance!
Oh my...that looks very bad. Maybe your solder is too hot? Be very careful not to put solder for too long on the PCB

Anyway, here is the layout of opamp on SB0460, from bichi. Good luck, I hope you can get it fixed, if not I got an alternative
post #1975 of 2194
My iron is a 30W, and it has a fairly thin tip. It's probably my inexperience that ruined the whole thing. But I'm planning to keep trying to fix it until its completely unsalvageable.

I'm looking at the exact same picture, will find a thin wire to act as bridge and solder it to the nearest V- pad.

It's not too bad, I only paid 30 dollars for the card, it's one of those HP OEM cards, but everything seems to be similar to the one in the above picture. But still, money is money :P Not to mention I paid a few bucks for the opamp + soldering tools

Thanks for the quick reply
post #1976 of 2194
I done some more testing, I found that:

1) Positive Analog out --> Capacitor --> 1k resistor --> RCA out
2) Positive Analog out --> 1k resistor --> capacitor --> RCA out

The number 2 config sounds a lot better thna the first config, its smoother, more listenable and less edgy than first config, the resistor I use is not really a high precision or HiFi type so that might be the problem. The capacitor is 47uF BG NX HQ

I got some idea, if Xonar STX can benefit from upgrading crystal clock, then X-Fi can also benefits from it too, but finding good clock is hard in Malaysia. The most I found is just 30ppm crystal
post #1977 of 2194
Man, really, considering the price, NJM4556 is not that bad...
post #1978 of 2194
Quote:
Quote:
Originally Posted by cotdt View Post
The X-Fi is without question the best gaming card, but the sound quality is average at best
Quote:
Originally Posted by P.J View Post
Anyone?
post #1979 of 2194
Quote:
Originally Posted by P.J View Post
Anyone?
Rightmark doesn't really tell us what equipment sounds like. It can help to find certain problems though.
post #1980 of 2194
Quote:
Originally Posted by maarek99 View Post
Rightmark doesn't really tell us what equipment sounds like. It can help to find certain problems though.
So there's no way to test the audio quality, right?
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