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Hotrodding the X-Fi: A Layman's Guide (No 56k) - Page 115

post #1711 of 2194
gurusan - witch ones to short? Well, picture is worth thousads of words, and here you have it:

http://www.head-fi.org/forums/f6/x-f...91/index4.html

Quote:
C23, C50, C76, C77, C28, C55, C85, C83, C61, C32, C62, C26, C67, C36, C34 and C68. It is possible to remove all the marked with green audio caps C18, C19, C21, C22, C48, C49, C102 and C104 if you did not use the AUX IN analog 2 channel CD in and the 10 pins Creative connector, for witch the 6 pcs of the bipolar caps are used to separate the AC3 6 channels signal (5.1).

Apocalypsee - 1500uF 6.3V Sanyo WF ... but I still prefer my Samxon GC 1000uF 6.3V solution


Quote:
if I wanted to bypass the decoupling caps, do I really need to remove the caps? Or is it leave the capacitor alone and short a wire behind them is sufficient?
It is. However given the unfortunate fact that Jamicons are known bad caps (they fail/leak or explode when stressed way faster that they should - good 2000h rated 105°C cap has at least 15 years time when used at 45°C, but NOT bac caps = not JAMICONS!) I would get rid of them at all cost.

Completely. They have to be gone from the whole card. Period.
post #1712 of 2194
thanks for the info
post #1713 of 2194
What's the best main cap that I can buy on Digikey?

And do I need insulation for the ERS paper?
post #1714 of 2194
Does anyone know what this mod does exactly? Does it bypass the opamp for better sound?
Picasa-Webalben - Klaus - Audio

Does anyone know where the front,cent/sub,rear opamps are for the b-enspirer?

If I were to mod the b-enspirer's capacitors, the big lower left one is a Swcon 470 uf/16v and the rest are pretty much Swcon 10 uf/16v on the card and a number of them Swcon 47 uf/16v.

How do I know which are the audible ones and which I should replace with black gates and any other kind of capacitor? Can I replace some with 6.3V? Does the better capacitor I am going to replace have to have the same uf and voltage? How will a higher or lower uf and/or voltage capacitor affect the sound?

Can someone tell me if I can use the opa637 on the b-enspirer?

Does anyone know what adaptor people use for their metal can type opamps?
What are they called? Like those Auzen singles to dual opamp metal can adaptors.
Where can I buy some online?

Auzentech, Inc. Sound Cards. Audio You Can Believe In. World First soundcards for Music, HTPC, and Gaming.

Is there an online store that I can buy similar ones?

Can anyone get free samples of the LM4562NA anymore? They now have like a $22 fee for it.
post #1715 of 2194
Just to update....swapped out the opamp. I had a brief period of panic where only the left channel worked. Just cleaned up the soldering a bit and now it works...and omg the difference is night and day. This sound card really is amazing now.

Also, despite that one hiccup, the mod was much easier than I expected. I'm a noob at soldering and it only took me a few minutes.

here she is in action (LME4960MA)
next I'm going to short the decoupling caps and put on some EMI shielding




Also I had 1 question, does the opamp have a break-in period?
post #1716 of 2194
If you don't want to replace the power filter capacitor with the BG 16v 2200uF, what would be some good alternatives?
post #1717 of 2194
Quote:
Originally Posted by BigSurSpoon View Post
If you don't want to replace the power filter capacitor with the BG 16v 2200uF, what would be some good alternatives?
I used a Sanyo WG 16V 1500uF cap and it works great.
post #1718 of 2194
I've been wanting to get into DIY for some time now. In a couple of weeks school's out and I'd like to build my own cable, or make a CMoy amp or anything comparable. My dad has a rather old soldering iron that I'd likely have to replace. It's a 15 watt'er and from what I've read here, you're not going to be succesfull trying to desolder the capacitors on the x-fi with a 15 watt iron.
Ehm, I found on marktplaats.nl (a 2nd handed + new stuff, site in the NL) an iron I like, but I'm not entirely sure if it will fit my needs.
It's this one. It is 60W with a controllable temperature from 100-400 degrees celsius. I like the looks from it, though it's rather cheap. This iron + sucker for only 15EU, which is not even 10$.. Will this do the trick for me?

EDIT: It's advertised here: Fijne regelbare soldeerbout (NIEUW !)
post #1719 of 2194
Quote:
Originally Posted by BigSurSpoon View Post
If you don't want to replace the power filter capacitor with the BG 16v 2200uF, what would be some good alternatives?
Well, i use Panasonic Low ESR 680uf 4v solid cap, work perfectly...
post #1720 of 2194
apatN - I did not had much sucess with such soldering irons, regardless of the wattage. I use this:
http://www.head-fi.org/forums/f6/how...e-caps-331573/
And you bet I'm going to stick with it
So in short, no. I did not think that this is a good soldering iron for X-Fi recap. However if you just buing your soldering iron... you should practice like mad on at least 10 sucesfully repaired mainboards, before playing with your X-Fi. You might kill it, if you haven't got enough experience.


coolkwc -
Quote:
Well, i use Panasonic Low ESR 680uf 4v solid cap, work perfectly...
Of course, but that is just because you cannot hear the voltage spikes that result from using such low ESR cap Tell me, what ripple ratting does this cap have?
Becuase if you study the regulator like I did ( http://www.head-fi.org/forums/f6/x-f...lution-216791/ ) you might notice that the recommended cap ripple value is around 1500mA... while solid polymers are typically around 6000mA ... witch cause higher voltage spikes that using of the original cursed bad cap Jamicon
Just letting ya know.
post #1721 of 2194
Quote:
Originally Posted by trodas View Post
apatN - I did not had much sucess with such soldering irons, regardless of the wattage. I use this:
http://www.head-fi.org/forums/f6/how...e-caps-331573/
And you bet I'm going to stick with it
So in short, no. I did not think that this is a good soldering iron for X-Fi recap. However if you just buing your soldering iron... you should practice like mad on at least 10 sucesfully repaired mainboards, before playing with your X-Fi. You might kill it, if you haven't got enough experience.


coolkwc -

Of course, but that is just because you cannot hear the voltage spikes that result from using such low ESR cap Tell me, what ripple ratting does this cap have?
Becuase if you study the regulator like I did ( http://www.head-fi.org/forums/f6/x-f...lution-216791/ ) you might notice that the recommended cap ripple value is around 1500mA... while solid polymers are typically around 6000mA ... witch cause higher voltage spikes that using of the original cursed bad cap Jamicon
Just letting ya know.
bro, i can't find the spec sheet in google, the cap is Panasonic FL series 680uf 4v which i took off from mobo VRM...maybe you can find out for me...

OK, three questions here

1.) I replaced C72, C74, C75, C43 -->Rubycon MBZ 1000uf 16v, C46, 91, 107, 119 -->Rubycon MBZ 1000uf 10v, and C16 -->Panasonic FL 680uf 4v...do you think my mod is suitable? any inappropriate? well, i'm poor, those cap i all taken from the mobo and GC...

2.) Since you said that the recommended cap ripple value is around 1500mA, but the application design by using Sanyo Oscon SVP 330uf 16v has a rated RMS ripple current 4720mA as well, how you going to explain it?

3.)In this case the input ripple voltage would be 140 mV and
the RMS ripple current would be 1.5 A. The maximum
voltage across the input capacitors would be VIN max plus
delta VIN/2. The chosen bulk and bypass capacitors are
each rated for 25 V and the combined ripple current
capacity is greater than 3 A, both providing ample margin.
It is very important that the maximum ratings for voltage
and current are not exceeded under any circumstance.


I think the ripple current you said was came from here, rite? Ok, if the RMS ripple current is 1500mA, that means we suppose should use the cap that can handle at least or above this current rating? is that any wrong?

bro, comment on it, just give any suggestion or correction or even criticism, i will please to hear it, thanks...
post #1722 of 2194
Quote:
Originally Posted by trodas View Post
apatN - I did not had much sucess with such soldering irons, regardless of the wattage. I use this:
http://www.head-fi.org/forums/f6/how...e-caps-331573/
And you bet I'm going to stick with it
So in short, no. I did not think that this is a good soldering iron for X-Fi recap. However if you just buing your soldering iron... you should practice like mad on at least 10 sucesfully repaired mainboards, before playing with your X-Fi. You might kill it, if you haven't got enough experience.
I Like that way and will definetly give it a try. And oh, you can only imagine how many boards will be victim to me and my new soldering iron

But you never use pump?

Nick.
post #1723 of 2194
On the b-enspirer
http://www.virtual-hideout.net/revie...nspirer/10.jpg

Does anyone which opamp is for the front, rear, center/sub, and back surround?
I can't find anything online.
post #1724 of 2194
Quote:
Originally Posted by apatN View Post
I Like that way and will definetly give it a try. And oh, you can only imagine how many boards will be victim to me and my new soldering iron

But you never use pump?

Nick.
bro, no need to use pump for desoldering this board and don't use it as well, it might suck away the circuit trace if done wrongly....just heat one lead and use your finger to bent the cap at another site, approximate 2 times for each lead will be able to take out the cap adi...
post #1725 of 2194
ordering samples of the lm4562, how do I do this?
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