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Hotrodding the X-Fi: A Layman's Guide (No 56k) - Page 111

post #1651 of 2194
Quote:
Originally Posted by Random Murderer View Post
maybe. you'll need to open it up and get some high res shots of the circuit card assembly on both sides for us.
I don't have the card yet.. I was thinking, if it can be modded then I will try it..
post #1652 of 2194
Looking to do opamp replacement on my Livebay and have searched this thread and cannot find the info I need. What I am looking for is what opamps are for the headphone output and RCA input.

Here is a photo of my Livebay PCB.



Thanks in advance!!!

post #1653 of 2194




can you give me the numbers off of those ic's?
post #1654 of 2194
Quote:
Originally Posted by Random Murderer View Post

can you give me the numbers off of those ic's?

From top to bottom they are

#1. 33078
Z512


#2. 75179B
53M
AV3X

#3. 4556A
F013C

LMK if any more information is helpful and thanks Random Murderer
post #1655 of 2194
Does anyone have the solder points for "wires" since I ripped off just about every pad ? I should of used snippers originally, i couldn't find them.

I bought an X-fi XtremeGamer Fata1ity Professional Series, it's SB0460 just like my Xtreme Music, the Ram layout is differen't though than the FPS version, is this modable as well? I found my clippers for once so I won't break this one LOL.

I need the points for the SB0460 Xtreme Music card for the 2.1 oAMP. The one that's at the start of this thread.

The bottom row, I have no clue where the missing solder pads lead to since it's ripped off the board along with another 5-6.

Thanks in advance,
Ret


A pic of the terrible soldering job. It's almost like when i first started soldering years ago. I'm ashamed.

post #1656 of 2194
Quote:
Originally Posted by ReTiCuLe View Post
Does anyone have the solder points for "wires" since I ripped off just about every pad ? I should of used snippers originally, i couldn't find them. "... it's SB0460 just like my Xtreme Music..." I need the points for the SB0460 Xtreme Music card...."

bummer....

Picture of signal lines for U2 opamp, SB0460:
X-FI-MOD-099c - eSnips, share anything

Pin #4 (-V) and pin #8 (+V) power pins can be connected to #4 and #8 of U3 opamp, below U2 (broken one)

Good Luck!
post #1657 of 2194
Thanks bichi.

I bought the X-fi XtremeGamer Fata1ity Pro. Should I mod this instead with the oAMP? I'd be starting fresh. now if i could find smaller clippers than the ones I currently have.

Which clippers would you recommend? Also would that card work?

Do you have MSN,AIM or something I may contact you at Bichi?
post #1658 of 2194
Quote:
Originally Posted by ReTiCuLe View Post
Thanks bichi.

I bought the X-fi XtremeGamer Fata1ity Pro. Should I mod this instead with the oAMP? I'd be starting fresh. now if i could find smaller clippers than the ones I currently have.

Which clippers would you recommend? Also would that card work?

Do you have MSN,AIM or something I may contact you at Bichi?
you dont need clippers, i used a utility knife to cut through the legs where they connect to the opamp. i cut one side(four legs) and then lifted the opamp and bent it back and forth until it snapped off. then i used a soldering iron to heat up the individual pads and remove the legs one at a time.

and as far as the cards go, they're both good. mod whichever one you like. you should at least try to fix the other card, though...
post #1659 of 2194
Quote:
Originally Posted by nomad0677 View Post
From top to bottom they are

#1. 33078
Z512


#2. 75179B
53M
AV3X

#3. 4556A
F013C

LMK if any more information is helpful and thanks Random Murderer
oops, i didn't even notice you replied until now.
lol, sorry about that.
when i wake up later, i'll start working on that for ya.

EDIT: couldn't wait.
#1 and #3 are dual opamps with the most common pinout for such chips, the same pinout as the opamps used on our soundcards. the opamps you should replace them with is a matter of personal preference. burr-brown(now texas instruments) opamps provide a milky, laid back sound, analog devices opamps provide a smooth, warm sound, and national semiconductor opamps provide a tight, responsive sound. keep in mind, there are other manufacturers as well. i suggest doing what i did: purchase a couple(or in my case, a bunch) of different opamps and find which is right for you.
#2 is a differential driver and receiver pair. simply put, this is an opamp for balanced signals. this does not have the same pinout as an opamp and must be replaced with the same type of chip. i can try to find a better chip to replace it with, but i must admit, i have very little experience with balanced signals.
EDIT2: apparently texas instruments holds the patent on differential driver and receiver pairs, because they are the only ones that manufacture them. the one on the board you have is the little brother(sister?) to the best one you can buy. the only difference between the two is a single digit in the product number, and the "better" chip is the exact same as the one you have as far as i can tell.
post #1660 of 2194
yeah i'm going to do that first. I'm going to order some more samples. I'm down to my last one :|.

from the photo I linked does it look repairable ?

The solder spash next to pin 1 I can't seem to get that off the board with de-solder braid. It's not touching the Pin 1 though or the cap, however I know there was a small gold plated hole underneath of the splash, that disappeared as well as lettering C something.
post #1661 of 2194
Quote:
Originally Posted by ReTiCuLe View Post
yeah i'm going to do that first. I'm going to order some more samples. I'm down to my last one :|.

from the photo I linked does it look repairable ?

The solder spash next to pin 1 I can't seem to get that off the board with de-solder braid. It's not touching the Pin 1 though or the cap, however I know there was a small gold plated hole underneath of the splash, that disappeared as well as lettering C something.
that resistor next to the hole is connected to pin 1 anyway.
the digits covered up are "C78".
keep in mind, national semiconductor isn't the only manufacturer of opamps, and opamps are pretty cheap(i call 'em jellybean chips). you can get an opamp from digi-key for about $1 a pop.
post #1662 of 2194
Quote:
Originally Posted by Random Murderer View Post
oops, i didn't even notice you replied until now.
lol, sorry about that.
when i wake up later, i'll start working on that for ya.

EDIT: couldn't wait.
#1 and #3 are dual opamps with the most common pinout for such chips, the same pinout as the opamps used on our soundcards. the opamps you should replace them with is a matter of personal preference. burr-brown(now texas instruments) opamps provide a milky, laid back sound, analog devices opamps provide a smooth, warm sound, and national semiconductor opamps provide a tight, responsive sound. keep in mind, there are other manufacturers as well. i suggest doing what i did: purchase a couple(or in my case, a bunch) of different opamps and find which is right for you.
#2 is a differential driver and receiver pair. simply put, this is an opamp for balanced signals. this does not have the same pinout as an opamp and must be replaced with the same type of chip. i can try to find a better chip to replace it with, but i must admit, i have very little experience with balanced signals.
EDIT2: apparently texas instruments holds the patent on differential driver and receiver pairs, because they are the only ones that manufacture them. the one on the board you have is the little brother(sister?) to the best one you can buy. the only difference between the two is a single digit in the product number, and the "better" chip is the exact same as the one you have as far as i can tell.
Lol, sacrificing sleep to help me!! Thats awesome!

I had a feeling that #3 was for headphone as the same IC was used on the L/R channel on the X-Fi card.

So would 1 and 3 be the opamps for Headphone and RCA? Those are the opamps I am seeking to replace. I have replaced the opamps on all output channels on the actual X-Fi with LM4562's and replaced power caps on the X-Fi and the LiveBay with 16v 2200uf Blackgate caps, and all I have left to do is the headphone and RCA's on the Livebay.

Thanks again for your help RM. You guys that have put so much of your knowledge and time into this thread should be commended.
post #1663 of 2194
Quote:
Originally Posted by nomad0677 View Post
From top to bottom they are
#1. 33078
Z512

#2. 75179B
53M
AV3X

#3. 4556A
F013C
#1. 33087:
MC33078
- originally made by Motorola, division sold to ON Semiconductor
- Creative usually uses this opamp for MIC-IN
- datasheet: http://www.onsemi.com/pub_link/Collateral/MC33078-D.PDF

#2. 75179B:
SN75179BP
- Texas Instruments, Differential Driver/ Receiver Pair, balanced transmissions
- datasheet: http://www.ti.com/lit/gpn/sn75179b

#3. 4556A:
NJM4556A
- New Japan Radio, high-gain, high-output opamp, usually used for headphone drive capability
- datasheet: http://semicon.njr.co.jp/njr/hp/file...o?_mediaId=147
post #1664 of 2194
Hey people i am begging for a Opamp and capacitor just one single one, i'll pay a small change for it via paypal if i have to and you just drop it in the mail box, if anyone will be so kind to help me out i would really appreciate it., PM me.
post #1665 of 2194
Thanks Random & Bichi. Now that all my questions are answered I'm going to give the old card a whirl later on, after work.

Btw, how fragile are the oAMPs to static electricity? I've never wore a wrist band soldering psx's, xbox's back in the day and actually had something fail on me.
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