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Hotrodding the X-Fi: A Layman's Guide (No 56k) - Page 106

post #1576 of 2194
I did a quick search but didn't find it. Is there a table of which cards are good for this mod?

I've read about 80 pages of this thread, so I know it's been discussed. I'm wondering if anyone has a list of all the cards (with model numbers ala SB0460 preferably)

Thanks in advance.
post #1577 of 2194
Hmm, where can I buy these parts?


ANyone else think someone should start doing these in bulk and selling them as modded XiFis?
post #1578 of 2194
Ok, I really screwed up on this mod. Stayed up till 3 am last night working on the cap and opamp mods on my x-fi elite. The cap alone took me way to long, at least an hour or more. I should have stopped there put pressed on and started on the opamps which was a big mistake. In my hurried and tired state I partially ripped one of the opamp pads up and am worried that it is unrepairable. I've googled around and have found some suggestions on repair but nothing firm. Can any of you help me with how to salvage the card?

-sid
post #1579 of 2194
Quote:
Originally Posted by sid311 View Post
Ok, I really screwed up on this mod.... In my hurried and tired state I partially ripped one of the opamp pads up and am worried that it is unrepairable. Can any of you help me with how to salvage the card? -sid
Bummer...
- kinda hard to tell specifically what to do without seeing the damage... (post a good, clear close-up?)
- close-up of signal and power paths for U7, SB0550 Elite. (link below)
- V-, pin #4, path is a bit hard to see, with socket installed, but terminates at a "via." (gold colored "hole")
- check with DVM (ohmmeter) to determine which path(s) is/are broken.
- after repair, check with DVM for correct continuity.
- 'tis a good practice to check for "shorts" (low reading, <0.25 ohms = short) between repaired path and other paths.
- CAUTION: SMT parts will lift-away easily, if not careful.

Read these past posts for tips and cautions: (applies to SB0460, but still relevant)
http://www.head-fi.org/forums/3781631-post1518.html
http://www.head-fi.org/forums/3781959-post1522.html

Close up, SB0550 U7 signal/power paths:
X-FI-MOD-117-U7-paths - eSnips, share anything

Best of luck!
post #1580 of 2194
Thanks for the reply Bichi. It is indeed a major bummer. Here's a pic of the damage, it occured at the U19 position which is the opamp for the front/sub I believe. You can see that part of the pad still remains. I can't see another trace exept for the one shown in the picture. Last night I hadn't noticed what had happened because only part of the pad had lifted up so I soldered the new opamp in position anyway. Upon listening I heard crackling and popping in the center channel and knew there was a problem. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

-sid
LL
post #1581 of 2194
Here's another pic of the damage. Arghhh, makes my stomach turn to post these!

-sid
LL
post #1582 of 2194
Quote:
Originally Posted by sid311 View Post
Thanks for the reply Bichi. It is indeed a major bummer. Here's a pic of the damage, it occured at the U19 position which is the opamp for the front/sub I believe. You can see that part of the pad still remains. I can't see another trace exept for the one shown in the picture. Last night I hadn't noticed what had happened because only part of the pad had lifted up so I soldered the new opamp in position anyway. Upon listening I heard crackling and popping in the center channel and knew there was a problem. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

-sid
you should be able to just "make" a new pad out of solder.
post #1583 of 2194
That's what I was thinking at first but don't know if this is the correct way to make the repair. RatShack has those CircuitWriter pens, I wonder if this would work. It seems that the pad that is damaged only has one path to it, I'm wondering if I just solder the leg to the remaining portion then it might work again.

-sid
post #1584 of 2194
Sid311,

Doesn't look too bad...
- took your picture, rotated 180 and blew it up.
- while the chip is off, check continuity of all the other traces.
- appears pin #3's pad is partially torn away.
- two options:
1) extend the pad with small wire or copper tape, then solder chip down.
2) solder chip down, then solder small wire (ie., 30ga. Kaynar) from pin #3 to C173.

I would do the second "wire" option, since pad "extention" can move or lose solder joint when soldering down chip.
Solder-only "bridging," is not the best, since the solder can "retract," due to "capillary" action when heated.
(hard to see, since its underneath the chip/leg.)

Badmojo2 U19 Repair Picture:
X-FI-MOD-118-badmojo2-U19 Repair - eSnips, share anything

Best of Luck!
post #1585 of 2194
Ok tried to extend the pad with copper wire with no luck, the piece was just too small the solder and wire continued to stick to the iron. Went out and bought the CircuitWriter pen at Fry's and extended the pad with it. Tested with multimeter and we're in business. Now the true test will be when the opamps arrive tomorrow and are installed properly. Thanks for the help Bichi, I'll let you know how it goes tomorrow.

-sid
post #1586 of 2194
Sid the same thing happened to me, and I just followed bichi's instructions (routing a copper wire from the pin on the opamp to the point on the picture and it works fine now) hope you get it fixed up, I know its frustrating.
post #1587 of 2194
Quote:
Originally Posted by sid311 View Post
Ok tried to extend the pad with copper wire with no luck, the piece was just too small the solder and wire continued to stick to the iron. Went out and bought the CircuitWriter pen at Fry's and extended the pad with it. Tested with multimeter and we're in business. Now the true test will be when the opamps arrive tomorrow and are installed properly. Thanks for the help Bichi, I'll let you know how it goes tomorrow.

-sid
i don't know if that will work. i use conductive ink pens as well, but i've never tried soldering to the ink. good luck with that.
post #1588 of 2194
Random Murderer, I'm surprised to read you suggest making a pad with solder. As we know solder won't attach to bare circuit board.

As am surprised about messing with lengths of copper wire. This could be tricky and cosmetically imperfect.

To restore the broken pad to as new condition. I repaint on using conductive silver paint. It is very cheap to attain ($5) and you can layer it for superior /desired low resistance. It will also act just like the original pad (albeit much more delicate during soldering) after drying for one soldering using silver bearing solder. Atleast this is my experience which has worked in scenarios far far far far worse than sid's.

I empathize with sid, I find that I can't just pull out my iron and start soldering at any time, afterall it's not my profession sometimes it's months between solders and most of my technique I forget, I have to have the right mental state, sometimes I start, realise I'm gonna screw it up and have to postpone until next week.

*Errors and ommisions accepted, not all silver paint may be the same and not all may be solderable or attach to pcb board. I have not found any like this yet though. These views are my own and you may not agree with them there is no right or wrong only different techniques.
post #1589 of 2194
Woohoo!! Center and sub working again with no trace of distortion of any kind. Thanks for to all of you who helped out, I really appreciate it. The silver based CircuitWriter pen worked as advertised as I soldered directly to it. One other question for you guys. How did you go about attaching the ERS paper to the board? Thanks again!

-sid
post #1590 of 2194
Quote:
Originally Posted by Fizzycapola View Post
Random Murderer, I'm surprised to read you suggest making a pad with solder. As we know solder won't attach to bare circuit board.
hey, you use enough flux and solder will attach to any solid
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