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Hotrodding the X-Fi: A Layman's Guide (No 56k) - Page 102

post #1516 of 2194
Quote:
Originally Posted by bichi View Post
If you can take a good close-up picture of the damaged area and post, I might be able to suggest a "wire-re-route" fix...

Close-up quality similar to this, as an example:
X-FI-MOD-092b - eSnips, share anything
This is a close up as my camera phone would let me get without blur:


Shot with N95 at 2008-02-09

I think its pretty obvious where the damage is. It looks worse than it did before because I tried to "fix" it.
post #1517 of 2194
Just put my fully modded XtremeMusic SB0460 card on ebay here, I'm also transit to SB0550.
post #1518 of 2194
Quote:
Originally Posted by unknown123 View Post
This is a close up as my camera phone would let me get without blur:
I think its pretty obvious where the damage is. It looks worse than it did before because I tried to "fix" it.
Obvious? - LOL
- picture shows routes for +/-IN and O (output) in different colors for both channels (link below)
- assuming right channel is working, then pins #4 and #8 (power) and pins #5, #6, #7 (right channel) are good.
- suspect pins are #1 (output), #2 (-IN) and #3 (+IN)
- guessing from your picture, pin #3 is the damaged pad.
- if you have an ohmmeter (DVM), confirm continuity is bad (yellow route)

Will require steady hands, good quality small-tipped soldering iron, SMT soldering skills, etc...
- risk is accidentally removing small SMT part(s) when soldering wires to alternate pad (they will lift off easily, if not careful)
- suggest using "soldering paste," instead of "wire solder" for this task
- small gauge wire, similar to Kynar #30
- maybe read "solder paste method" post for context? (solder-paste dot on wire end)
http://www.head-fi.org/forums/f46/ho...ml#post3210241

Best of Luck!

REFs:
U2 Audio Signal Route Picture for SB0460:
X-FI-MOD-099c - eSnips, share anything

Solder Paste example:
Solder-It, SP-7 (sold at Frys Electronics, if one is near you)
FRYS.com | Wahl Clipper

Kynar 30 gauge wire example:
FRYS.com
post #1519 of 2194
Quote:
Originally Posted by eboy2003 View Post
Just put my fully modded XtremeMusic SB0460 card on ebay... I'm also transit to SB0550.
"...Better than Stock Elite Pro..." - LOL!
meet at local Fry's on Arques sometime?
post #1520 of 2194
Quote:
Originally Posted by bichi View Post
"...Better than Stock Elite Pro..." - LOL!
meet at local Fry's on Arques sometime?
How is that laughable? Unless you're being sarcastic
post #1521 of 2194
Quote:
Originally Posted by bichi View Post
Obvious? - LOL
- picture shows routes for +/-IN and O (output) in different colors for both channels (link below)
- assuming right channel is working, then pins #4 and #8 (power) and pins #5, #6, #7 (right channel) are good.
- suspect pins are #1 (output), #2 (-IN) and #3 (+IN)
- guessing from your picture, pin #3 is the damaged pad.
- if you have an ohmmeter (DVM), confirm continuity is bad (yellow route)...
According to your picture it is #3, however it was the left channel that was working and the right was mute. Due to my lack of technical knowledge in this area I'm not very comprehensive, so what I'm guessing your telling me that if I bridge pin 3 to the area sound will magically appear? I try not to pretend to know what I'm doing, I'm just willing to do it anyway.
post #1522 of 2194
unknown123,
- if you have an ohmmeter (borrow one, if you can), suggest doing continuity checks before wiring.
- if pin #3 matches your problem, then give it a go
- if still no sound, then do pins #1 and #2
- if nothing works, then, its possible there might be a solder short, underneath the chip, which can't be seen...

Just to repeat, SMT parts will lift-away easily when heated...

Good Luck!
post #1523 of 2194
bichi - and any answer to my questions about the caps/problems with now muted X-Fi? Any ideas?
post #1524 of 2194
Bichi, you're the man! Haha it was a shoddy looking fix but I bridged the two areas like you suggested and I have sound again, I'm actually surprised, not that your advice was good, but that my crappy work...well worked.
post #1525 of 2194
Quote:
Originally Posted by bichi View Post
"...Better than Stock Elite Pro..." - LOL!
meet at local Fry's on Arques sometime?
The RMAA scores does not mean everything for head-fiers.

The stock Elite Pro indeed sounds like a low-fi card even the RMAA score is awesome. Since you are also in SV, let's exchange more ideas to make it better.

I notice you use tant on decoupling and digital section a lot, how are they comparing the sanyo oscon SA/SC series? I definitely would not recommend use those newer polymer solid caps due to their ultra-high leak current. But SA/SC series seems have < 0.01CV leak current, comparable to electrolytic counterparts.
post #1526 of 2194
Quote:
Originally Posted by trodas View Post
bichi - and any answer to my questions about the caps/problems with now muted X-Fi? Any ideas?
- forgotten your derogatory comments about Americans, when you mis-identified a Canadian?
- don't expect help from me
post #1527 of 2194
Quote:
Originally Posted by eboy2003 View Post
The RMAA scores does not mean everything for head-fiers.
- agreed, but its the only commonly available, easy to use "objective" comparision for "online" stuff
- don't think most here would understand FFT/Bode plots from B&K or HP analyzers...

Quote:
Originally Posted by eboy2003 View Post
The stock Elite Pro indeed sounds like a low-fi card even the RMAA score is awesome.
- you mean "flat," audio spectra, as it should be - LOL

Quote:
Originally Posted by eboy2003 View Post
Since you are also in SV, let's exchange more ideas to make it better.
- yeah, would be fun. sent you PM (don't know if it's working, after site implosion weeks ago)
- if you choose to socket SB0550 Line-Out, I can give you a matched set of MLCC X7R 60uf caps to play and compare with.

Quote:
Originally Posted by eboy2003 View Post
I notice you use tant on decoupling and digital section a lot, how are they comparing the sanyo oscon SA/SC series? I definitely would not recommend use those newer polymer solid caps due to their ultra-high leak current. But SA/SC series seems have < 0.01CV leak current, comparable to electrolytic counterparts.
- a practice that's served for decades for me, doing hi-speed digital designs.
- followed C Bateman, I Catt, B Pease, W Jung, etc., as well as "marketechture" tech/app papers on "Capacitors," over past decades and decided to do some "fun" stuff, applied to audio stuff, starting with SB0460 and now, SB0550.
- can't speak to OSCON SA/SC series yet, playing with "verboten" MLCC for coupling and power de-coupling.
- quick "listen" test with solid polymers, for my taste, sounded a bit "hard" and peaked "sibliants/essing." (to your point, RMAA looked outstanding, however)
(SB0550: Va and Vd power: C104, C133, C131, C154, C55, Line-Out: MLCC, X7R, 60uf, matched set)
- reverted back to Panasonic FM's until MLCC test phase is over...

REFs: sample cross-section of papers/app notes
SOUND OF CAPACITORS:
The "Sound" of Capacitors

PICKING CAPACITORS:
Picking Capacitors - Walter G. Jung and Richard Marsh
Services

Recommended Output Filters for Wolfson Audio DACs:
http://www.wolfsonmicro.com/uploads/...en/WAN0171.pdf

Comparison of MLC and Tantalum Capacitors:
http://www.avxcorp.com/docs/techinfo/mlc-tant.pdf

SOLUTION FOR INCREASING CAPACITANCE DEMAND HIGH CV TANTALUM CAPACITORS
http://www.kyocera.co.jp/prdct/elect...cal/highcv.pdf

Circuit Tradeoffs Minimize Noise in Battery-Input Power Supplies
http://pdfserv.maxim-ic.com/en/an/AN653.pdf

JDI MLCC TANCERM
http://www.johansondielectrics.com/p...am_2007-08.pdf
http://www.johansondielectrics.com/t...-Apps_3-03.pdf
post #1528 of 2194
Hi Bichi,

Thanks for your info. PM sent. I will bring my current modded SB0550.
post #1529 of 2194
Quote:
Originally Posted by bichi View Post
- you mean "flat," audio spectra, as it should be - LOL
Well the Elite Pro has some treble glare so it sounds somewhat tipped off at the treble. It doesn't resolve textures or ambience very well either.

RMAA tells that its perfect, but according to RMAA there shouldn't be any hearable difference between ANY modern soundcard so I don't really trust it.
post #1530 of 2194
Hoooray! Bug found and my X-Fi play again
I was too careless. Hurry too much. My fault. My bad. I realized that over 26 years of soldering is all for nothing, when you get careless.

After hours of searching, I find it. I lifted and disconnected a small wire on the TOP side of the X-Fi (!) bellow C16. It lead power to the DAC and hence - no sound at all.
I must say I suspected the DAC from the second one, however ... usualy I search for things where I do solder. At bottom. This time the cap was inadequaly heated and took the small PCB part with it.

So now I perhaps should remove the decoupling caps again?

Anyway, when searching for the DAC powering, I made this:

X-Fi Fatal1ty DAC is Cirrus Logic CS4382 - http://www.cirrus.com/en/pubs/proDat.../CS4382_F1.pdf





The imput VA/VD voltage caps as shown above are on X-Fi the C91 and C119 while the voltage pass to them thru the two L things bellow them.

New opamps LM4562
LM4562 - Dual High Performance, High Fidelity Audio Operational Amplifier

Voltage regulator 1.2V (CA20K1 - main chip) - PS54352
http://www.ti.com/lit/gpn/tps54352
input (5V) cap filter - C172, output cap filter - C177

Voltage regulator 3.3V (???) - AMS1117
http://www.ortodoxism.ro/datasheets/...ms/mXuxzrt.pdf

Voltage regulator 5V (opamps + DAC VA) - UA78M05C
http://www.ortodoxism.ro/datasheets2...p82zof95wy.pdf
input (12V) cap filter -

79L05
Voltage regulator ??V (DAC VD) - ???



bichi - I made those comments privately to you and I though that things said between gentlemans stay between them.
Also I said that in anger, when in a response to my mod I get the "That's the dumbest thing I've seen..." reaction.
You never swear when someone have so derogatory comments on your work? No? Never? I do and I can admit that. Do you?
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