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post #541 of 18428
[QUOTE=terance;2774338]
Quote:
Originally Posted by Carl View Post
Batteries nearly flat.

i thought that, but the batteries are brand new. . i couldn't have possibly listened to them that much?

sigh, this is going to get expensive =/
Doesn't have to. The power consumption/supply issue is the SR-001's Achilles heel. Some people use a wall wart (or better AC) supply for home use (careful, cheap supplies hum!); I put together a Radio Shack special for road use that doesn't add much bulk. You need 4.5V to get full bias voltage, iirc. Here's a bit from a post on another thread:

"Love these little gems. FYI, I've been playing with powering them and found a good solution I can live with: they need pure DC to sound decent, and they need that 4.5V to fully charge the panels, apparently. After some experimentation, I've found four 1.2V EverReady 2500 maH rechargeable batteries are the ticket (the slight over-voltage is not a problem, and sounds much better than the under-voltage from using 3 - 1.2V cells). I've not been able to discharge them yet (going on four hours). The charger WalMart sells with these charges them in 15 minutes, too, unlike my old Ray-O-Vac 1300mah system from a few years back, which took hours. I use an enclosed four AA-cell battery holder (Radio Shack 270-409) that's extremely compact, yet has an on-off switch. This is just strapped back to back to the SR-001 amp, and fits very well. If you try this, be sure you do NOT put regular AA batteries in it, since that would be 6V or more, with fresh alkalines, and that would probably diminish amplifier component life, if not destroy it pretty quickly. 4.8-5.0V is fine, in my estimation, and actually enhances sound. (Solid-state devices usually operate safely over a voltage range that is wider than one might think; 12V systems run very well off of 12V batteries, or from a car accessory plug, which often is 13-14V DC.) For disclaimer, these are my experiences, and I'm not advocating running over-voltage on these, even though my experience is that 4.8-5V is fine.

Anyway, these are a blast for portability, and the only thing I haven't resolved to my satisfaction yet is how to neatly police up all the cords so this works as a compact, orderly system. I'm looking at replacing battery pack to amp and Ipod to amp cables with some short coiled cords to provide strain relief and keep it all compact. The size and weight is not bad (and you could remove the two internal AA batteries if you wanted). You could even strap all three together if you needed too, although I think that might be a little unwieldy.

The sound from the full DC-powered amplifier is very nice. I'm looking forward to obtaining a converter plug (someone said is available) so I can power them off my other amps. But for portable use, the SR-001 is about 85 per cent of the Lambda 2020 system (SR-202/SRM-212). It does some things a little better (no upper midrange peak, very smooth vocals), while lacking soundstage and some of the deepest bass. Very nice and economical system for road warriors!"

Good luck - great little 'phones!

Edit: hopefully not too off-topic, this could affect all of us who fly with battery-powered devices! Really hope not!
http://www.usatoday.com/travel/fligh...s-planes_N.htm
post #542 of 18428
Quote:
Originally Posted by jigster View Post
Oops, apologies. But why does ebay show the bidders as Bidder 1,2,3 and so on? While others have nicks? Private bidders?
Once you hit a certain amount it hids the bidders name and just lists them as Bidder X. I'm sure if you searched eBay's help site you would get a good official answer.
post #543 of 18428
Nope, it sure doesn't! This is the second time this has happened to me through ebay. In both cases, it was AFTER I had paid via Ebay's Paypal. In the first case, the product arrived just fine and as described. This time, who knows?

The real issue is that Ebay has cancelled all of this fellow's auctions and his account. Because of that, he may feel that there is no real reason to complete the transaction. Since I sent Paypal on Sunday, I'm hoping this item shipped before Ebay decided to kill this user. I'm not keeping my fingers crossed though! This may be the first in my many online transactions that I actually get burned! I'll keep you all posted. At any rate, life goes on, there are bigger problems in the world, etc.


Quote:
Originally Posted by krmathis View Post
ferrstein, I sure hope everything turns out OK for this deal!
Cause I just received this email from eBay:

Certainly don't look too promising!
post #544 of 18428
Quote:
Originally Posted by derekbmn View Post
One word - MELOS. If you can find a SHA-1 Headphone amp/preamp or some of there straight preamps BUY ONE.
Yes, the Tower of Power setup. I never really knew what the Melos was doing in that rig (fellow NY Head-Fier Jahn has a similar configuration). It seemed like a bit of overkill to me, but I never had a chance to listen to that setup under anything other than meet conditions.
post #545 of 18428
Quote:
Originally Posted by jpelg View Post
My guess after hearing several KGSS's over the years, and finally a Blue Hawaii last weekend, that the Gilmore designs are tweaked to make the bass-heavy Omega-2's sound good. You want something that is geared more toward the HE90, as the Lambda's have a FR closer to those, imo. The first incarnations of the ES-1 I heard sounded better with the O2's. But now, after several revisions, it's doing amazing things with the HE90's. Mikhail also said that using different tubes can shift the sound considerably.

There are at least a few publicly posted e-stat amp designs out there on the web, and a couple of DIYFSE people willing to build them if you didn't want to give it a shot yourself (although DIY may be your best bang for the buck option).

Not exactly the answers you were probably looking for, but constraints always require more 'out-of-the-box' thinking to solve the problem. Those are the things I'd investigate if a better, yet budget-conscious e-stat amp was in my future (and given my GF's propensity for Stax, it may be ).
The BH is a very neutral amp and it mates well with all of my stats. Cables and tubes make a huge difference and alter the sound a lot. The ES-1 and the Blue Hawaii can both be tailored to a specific sound with tube rolling though for me there is only Mullard. All other EL34's I've tried all impose their own sound and it gets tiring after awhile.

I am a little bit amazed how many people loved the BH at the NY meet since the tubes it used are horrible. They are NOS East-German Siemens but often rebranded and while they are better then the new stuff the Mullards are miles ahead.
post #546 of 18428
Quote:
Originally Posted by jpelg View Post
Btw, I believe the Meridian G08 was sourcing the big Singlepower amps that day.
A high quality source is always helpful and many people would say you can't get better than this. I have to determine if changing my source will add anything to my rig or if it will just change it. I'm pretty sure the Ack dAck provides a sound that I truly enjoy and also works well with a variety of phones.

Quote:
...In speaking with Mikhail that day, he described how the ES-1 "grabs hold of the driver and bends it to it's will". I think this is what you were hearing, and where you will find you biggest improvement. The question is how to come closer to the ES-1 ideal without spending close to five figures.

Here again, I think some technical research is in order. What are the important things an electrostatic amp does? How does the amp interact with the electrostatic driver? What is it about the ES-1 that does it's job so well? Perhaps the DIY section here, as well as Headwize, would be good places to read up.
Yes, I'll do a search on "electrostatic" and "bend to its will".

Quote:
My guess after hearing several KGSS's over the years, and finally a Blue Hawaii last weekend, that the Gilmore designs are tweaked to make the bass-heavy Omega-2's sound good. You want something that is geared more toward the HE90, as the Lambda's have a FR closer to those, imo. The first incarnations of the ES-1 I heard sounded better with the O2's. But now, after several revisions, it's doing amazing things with the HE90's. Mikhail also said that using different tubes can shift the sound considerably.
That would make sense because when I plugged in the Lambdas into the Blue Hawaii I got a very unpleasant high end. There's no bass that needs to be toned down with the Lambdas - probably just the opposite in fact. I suppose by going tubes I could start to tweak the sound even more but that's a whole other can of worms. Tubes also aren't practical as my main rig in my home office where space is somewhat limited. I can't keep a tube amp in too many places with a 2 year old running around.

Quote:
DIY may be your best bang for the buck option.
Unfortunately, I one thing I have even less of than money is time. My first and only DIY attempt did result in something that actually produced decent sound but it was not pretty and took quite a long time. Not to mention that it was only $40 in parts so if I screwed it up, it was no big deal.

Quote:
Not exactly the answers you were probably looking for, but constraints always require more 'out-of-the-box' thinking to solve the problem. Those are the things I'd investigate if a better, yet budget-conscious e-stat amp was in my future (and given my GF's propensity for Stax, it may be ).
Definitely food for thought, which is half the fun of this hobby anyway. Good luck with your girlfriend!
post #547 of 18428
Quote:
Originally Posted by terance View Post

Doesn't have to. The power consumption/supply issue is the SR-001's Achilles heel. Some people use a wall wart (or better AC) supply for home use (careful, cheap supplies hum!); I put together a Radio Shack special for road use that doesn't add much bulk. You need 4.5V to get full bias voltage, iirc. Here's a bit from a post on another thread:

"Love these little gems. FYI, I've been playing with powering them and found a good solution I can live with: they need pure DC to sound decent, and they need that 4.5V to fully charge the panels, apparently. After some experimentation, I've found four 1.2V EverReady 2500 maH rechargeable batteries are the ticket (the slight over-voltage is not a problem, and sounds much better than the under-voltage from using 3 - 1.2V cells). I've not been able to discharge them yet (going on four hours). The charger WalMart sells with these charges them in 15 minutes, too, unlike my old Ray-O-Vac 1300mah system from a few years back, which took hours. I use an enclosed four AA-cell battery holder (Radio Shack 270-409) that's extremely compact, yet has an on-off switch. This is just strapped back to back to the SR-001 amp, and fits very well. If you try this, be sure you do NOT put regular AA batteries in it, since that would be 6V or more, with fresh alkalines, and that would probably diminish amplifier component life, if not destroy it pretty quickly. 4.8-5.0V is fine, in my estimation, and actually enhances sound. (Solid-state devices usually operate safely over a voltage range that is wider than one might think; 12V systems run very well off of 12V batteries, or from a car accessory plug, which often is 13-14V DC.) For disclaimer, these are my experiences, and I'm not advocating running over-voltage on these, even though my experience is that 4.8-5V is fine.

Anyway, these are a blast for portability, and the only thing I haven't resolved to my satisfaction yet is how to neatly police up all the cords so this works as a compact, orderly system. I'm looking at replacing battery pack to amp and Ipod to amp cables with some short coiled cords to provide strain relief and keep it all compact. The size and weight is not bad (and you could remove the two internal AA batteries if you wanted). You could even strap all three together if you needed too, although I think that might be a little unwieldy.

The sound from the full DC-powered amplifier is very nice. I'm looking forward to obtaining a converter plug (someone said is available) so I can power them off my other amps. But for portable use, the SR-001 is about 85 per cent of the Lambda 2020 system (SR-202/SRM-212). It does some things a little better (no upper midrange peak, very smooth vocals), while lacking soundstage and some of the deepest bass. Very nice and economical system for road warriors!"

Good luck - great little 'phones!
Reading this makes me wonder: is it possible to run an SRM-212 off batteries, in the same way as terance has done?

Anybody got any ideas/views/experiences of this?
post #548 of 18428
Quote:
Originally Posted by jpelg View Post
Depends on your DAC. I'd do some research on the Ack dAck to see if a different transport will improve things there.
Some brief research would suggest that the SACDMods player I have (thanks Jimmy) should be a good transport. The power supply and clock both have been upgraded, which I would think would be the most important parts. I don't think I could improve much upon that without going ridiculously high in price for not much in return.
post #549 of 18428
Quote:
Originally Posted by erikzen View Post
That would make sense because when I plugged in the Lambdas into the Blue Hawaii I got a very unpleasant high end. There's no bass that needs to be toned down with the Lambdas - probably just the opposite in fact. I suppose by going tubes I could start to tweak the sound even more but that's a whole other can of worms. Tubes also aren't practical as my main rig in my home office where space is somewhat limited. I can't keep a tube amp in too many places with a 2 year old running around.
In my rig it's the lambdas that need to be toned down in the bass. All of the Lambdas I've heard have a very pronounced bass hump and a very woolly bass. This is the enclosures fault because it vibrates with the drivers. This bass hump leads many to believe the Lambdas have more or better bass then the O2's.
post #550 of 18428
Quote:
Originally Posted by Johnny Blue View Post
Reading this makes me wonder: is it possible to run an SRM-212 off batteries, in the same way as terance has done?

Anybody got any ideas/views/experiences of this?
Absolutely! But it would take more batteries, and be kind of heavy, since it's 12 VDC nominal.

Since the SR-001 needs only 4.5V, it's just more practical.
post #551 of 18428
Quote:
Originally Posted by spritzer View Post
In my rig it's the lambdas that need to be toned down in the bass. All of the Lambdas I've heard have a very pronounced bass hump and a very woolly bass. This is the enclosures fault because it vibrates with the drivers. This bass hump leads many to believe the Lambdas have more or better bass then the O2's.
Interesting in that what you've stated is completely contrary to my (non-owner) experience with the Lambdas vs. the O2's.
post #552 of 18428
Quote:
Originally Posted by Downrange View Post
Absolutely! But it would take more batteries, and be kind of heavy, since it's 12 VDC nominal.

Since the SR-001 needs only 4.5V, it's just more practical.
Doh! You're right, of course, I'd forgotten about the voltage being 12: I had in my mind the figure of 4, but that's the power consumption in Watts! Anybody got any idea how I could hold 10 NiMH 1.2V AA/LR6 batteries together?!
post #553 of 18428
Btw, is there a definitive answer as to whether Pro-bias electrostatics can be safely driven by a non-Pro, electret transformer long-term?

Also, in such a setup can a Class-D amp be used both effectively & safely?
post #554 of 18428
Quote:
Originally Posted by jpelg View Post
Btw, is there a definitive answer as to whether Pro-bias electrostatics can be safely driven by a non-Pro, electret transformer long-term?
They can be driven by a low bias outlet but you will probably find them seriously lacking in volume and dynamics. You CANNOT drive them from an ELECTRET transformer like the srd-4.
post #555 of 18428
Quote:
Originally Posted by jpelg View Post
Interesting in that what you've stated is completely contrary to my (non-owner) experience with the Lambdas vs. the O2's.
It isn't a subtle difference but the O2's are hard to master and when you do they have much better bass and every thing else for that matter. It follows the recording much better then any other phone I've heard, imposing less of it self. The O2's only have this overpowering bass symptoms when the amp isn't up too snuff, the cables are too warm and the fit of the phones is wrong, not just the earpads but also and to a greater effect the headband.

Quote:
Originally Posted by jpelg View Post
Btw, is there a definitive answer as to whether Pro-bias electrostatics can be safely driven by a non-Pro, electret transformer long-term?

Also, in such a setup can a Class-D amp be used both effectively & safely?
They won't work out of an electret transformer since it doesn't have a bias supply. It's just the transformers in there but it's easy enough to built a PRO bias supply. You can drive a Pro phone from a normal socket indefinitely to no ill effect. You can even go the other way around in theory but don't drive them to hard because there is no room for error.

I've never tried a Class D amp with the transformers but the Tripath based amps have some trouble with the full range electrostatic speakers but I doubt it will translate to the adapters.
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