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post #23611 of 24765
Quote:
Originally Posted by pschelbert View Post

Hi

 

I just opened and removed the fuse-board.

I discovered that on metal-bar 2 and 5 there is no wire soldered to...

 

I think I have to go deeper.

 

Helpful if I would know about the windings on the primary side:

 

There are the following wire-colors, from left to right (see picture):

 

a) yellow

b) white

c) green

d) no wire attached to the copper-color wire coming out of transformer

e) grey

f) brown

g) no wire attached to the copper-color wire coming out of transformer

 

would be helpful to have a schematic.

 

I read there are two 0-100V-110V windings. Which colors are what?

 

Peter

 

Like this pic?

 

 

pics from 007ta should be same.

post #23612 of 24765

You can't just under-declare the value of the item. On the custom's form you need to fill out a reason and what the item is. I learnt this from another Denmark buyer who purchased my imbalanced SR-404's, Denmark customs or any euro customs, they open parcels up sometimes. If you under-declare the value but have the item listed as good's or gift, chances are you will get dicked with fee's. But if you have it listed as returns/refunded goods & services, then you should be ok. Anyway, I doubt customs people are dumb enough to dismiss something expensive looking such as the 009's as being worth $100.

post #23613 of 24765
Quote:
Originally Posted by DefQon View Post

You can't just under-declare the value of the item. On the custom's form you need to fill out a reason and what the item is.

 

I frequently get asked by sellers if they should undervalue items they're sending to me. These are legit shops (i.e. not ebay purchases).

post #23614 of 24765
Quote:
Originally Posted by DefQon View Post

One of the cap's measure 0vdc on the negative pole, approx 315-320vdc on the positive pole. But the other ELNA cap (as seen in the pictures) next to the white 600v+ bias wire connecting to the copper bridge, the neg pole measures 315-320vdc (shouldn't it be 0?) and the positive pole measures 620-630vdc. The cap does not emit burnt smell or hot temperature or so.

 

 

They are "stacked" like batteries so they can use lower-rated components to reach the voltages. Think of it like how you stack 1.5v batteries to power up your other devices like lightbulbs and torches. 

 

Did you try measuring the voltages from outputs/stax socket? Try measuring L+ and L-; R+ and R-; Bias and gnd; L+ and gnd; r+ and gnd. That may give some clues as well.

 

It may be actually quite easy to troubleshoot for you where things went awry as you can just follow the right channel and compare it against the left. If you're lucky it may be just some lose wiring? (we can all hope :P)


Edited by RiStaR - 7/17/13 at 1:43am
post #23615 of 24765
Quote:
Originally Posted by jjinh View Post

 

I frequently get asked by sellers if they should undervalue items they're sending to me. These are legit shops (i.e. not ebay purchases).

Yeah well there is no spoon too. That's what I learnt. Nor is there potatoes.

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by RiStaR View Post

 

They are "stacked" like batteries so they can use lower-rated components to reach the voltages. Think of it like how you stack 1.5v batteries to power up your other devices like lightbulbs and torches. 

 

Did you try measuring the voltages from outputs/stax socket? Try measuring L+ and L-; R+ and R-; Bias and gnd; L+ and gnd; r+ and gnd. That may give some clues as well.

 

It may be actually quite easy to troubleshoot for you where things went awry as you can just follow the right channel and compare it against the left. If you're lucky it may be just some lose wiring? (we can all hope :P)

 

I had an idea that it was something like that otherwise 600v+ through a 350v cap mean's explosion. I'm still in one piece so it's all good. Honestly the only thing I'm thinking that is preventing sound through the left-side is the 470kohm resistor underneath the two big ELNA cap's that I covered a scratch with black nail polish. I measured both jacks, everything read zero (unless I didn't measure it properly) except two pins of each jack which is the bias supply at around 30-40vdc but I need to double check again. It's hard to compare things between both channels because it was working fine up until I took it apart to rewire the RCA's (now completely re-wired) and changed a ceramic coupling 104k cap to a WIMA 104k MKP rated at 0.1uf 400v/250vac which fits the bill perfectly except size. Again the cap that the Wima replaced is around the ELNA big caps.

post #23616 of 24765
Quote:
Originally Posted by DefQon View Post

Yeah well there is no spoon too. That's what I learnt. Nor is there potatoes.

 

 

I had an idea that it was something like that otherwise 600v+ through a 350v cap mean's explosion. I'm still in one piece so it's all good. Honestly the only thing I'm thinking that is preventing sound through the left-side is the 470kohm resistor underneath the two big ELNA cap's that I covered a scratch with black nail polish. I measured both jacks, everything read zero (unless I didn't measure it properly) except two pins of each jack which is the bias supply at around 30-40vdc but I need to double check again. It's hard to compare things between both channels because it was working fine up until I took it apart to rewire the RCA's (now completely re-wired) and changed a ceramic coupling 104k cap to a WIMA 104k MKP rated at 0.1uf 400v/250vac which fits the bill perfectly except size. Again the cap that the Wima replaced is around the ELNA big caps.

 

Everything reading 0 apart from the bias is a good thing, really - no offset issues. Your bias supply reads way too low, though. Even on a crappy DMM it should read 100+? Edit: That said, when you put the volume up a tad and with a signal running through the numbers shouldn't be 0.

 

What I mean about comparing between channels is that you have to identify the signal paths through the amp for the left and the right. Measuring various points between the two channels will slowly help you figure where the problem areas are on the left channel. I'm fairly new into the DIY stuff so I can't give you much more specifics, but that's what I did when I ran into minor issues with my KGSSHV build (one resistor and LED went bad on mine). If you really think it's the resistor, unsolder it and measure the resistance - fairly easy. Without knowing how deep you've scratched it, I personally think it's ok to put nailpolish over it to insulate it again.

 

Good luck!


Edited by RiStaR - 7/17/13 at 2:06am
post #23617 of 24765

Yeah I will need to measure the points again. It's going to a slight PITA to measure everything in each of the channels signal path to ensure balanced/equal numbers. The resistor has it's outside coating completely scratched off and I can see inside the carbon resistor (the metal bit), so I thought it'd be ok to just recoat it with nail polish which is used cover up scratched solder traces on PCB's due to it's non-conductivity. 

post #23618 of 24765

It's easy to check the transistor, hard part is having a meter with sufficient diode voltage test and unsoldering them. Resistor checking is easy as been said.

post #23619 of 24765

Hi

 

 

now the photo, to illustrate the below description

 

 

******************************************************

 

I just opened and removed the fuse-board.

I discovered that on metal-bar 2 and 5 there is no wire soldered to...

 

I think I have to go deeper.

 

Helpful if I would know about the windings on the primary side:

 

There are the following wire-colors, from left to right (see picture):

 

a) yellow

b) white

c) green

d) no wire attached to the copper-color wire coming out of transformer

e) grey

f) brown

g) no wire attached to the copper-color wire coming out of transformer

 

would be helpful to have a schematic.

 

I read there are two 0-100V-110V windings. Which colors are what?

 

Peter

post #23620 of 24765

Hi

 

yes it looks very similar as your pics for my SRM-717.

 

Comparing the pictures, I see that:

 

d) the purple wire is not there.

g) the blue wire is not there.

 

You can tell me to where the blue wire is going and to where the purple wire is going?

 

To have a schematic would be great.

 

Peter

 

here just to compare again the picture of my SRM-717

post #23621 of 24765
Quote:
Originally Posted by DefQon View Post

I doubt customs people are dumb enough to dismiss something expensive looking such as the 009's as being worth $100.

 

It's a headphone.  No one outside the Head-Fi community is going to believe there are $3400 headphones, $100... that they can wrap their head around :P

post #23622 of 24765
Quote:
Originally Posted by Solude View Post

 

It's a headphone.  No one outside the Head-Fi community is going to believe there are $3400 headphones, $100... that they can wrap their head around :P

lol put's on tin foil hats. ph34r.gif

post #23623 of 24765

Hi

 

I found in a german forum the following description:

 

according to that I made a schematic drawing. Is that correct?

 

Peter

post #23624 of 24765

RE-CAP MY SRM-717?

 

This amp was produced from 1999 to 2006(?) so it could be anywhere from 7 to 14 years old.  I don't know how old mine is, though it sounds fantastic as is (everything appears stock and immaculate).

 

It has the variable voltage switch at the back with the little metal plate covering it.  The 2 screws attaching the plate have a proprietary(?) head which I had to strip to remove and set the voltage from the default Japanese 100v to 117v.  Most pictures of other units show a phillips head.

 

The side case cover screws have allen heads.

 

Serial Number is W011XX.

Also another number next to the serial: 75136

 

Any ideas about the year of production?


Edited by Argybargy - 7/17/13 at 11:43am
post #23625 of 24765
Quote:
Originally Posted by K_19 View Post

Question about the 2170 system, or rather more so the 252 amp;

 

My friend is interested in purchasing this system as he wants to give E-stats a try, but as you know in NA the prices are high and it's much cheaper to get from Japan (which he can arrange for to get). The problem is with the voltage of the 252 amp. Is the power supply internal on these? They do look really small so I'm not sure whether they do, I'm thinking they may come with a wall wart instead, but can't be sure as I've never seen it.  If it's internal, is a simple mod possible to convert the voltage from 100v to 120v (I've done it on my old 717 before which was easy), or if it is external, possible to get a separate wall wart for them?  He does have a Japanese voltage transformer, but would rather not use it if possible.

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by DefQon View Post

It's been said here before just buy an American 12v 1amp wallwart with the correct tip and you're good to go. The PS is external so there is nothing to mod inside.

 

Thanks for the tip. So he found one for a good price at Japan, he's going to go ahead with it... but about the 120v American wallwart PS to purchase separately, does anyone have a good link to one to be used with a 100v unit of SRM-252?    They seem common enough to find, but what I'm concerned with is something with power jack polarity and how the Japanese versions are reverse of what is typically used here? I'm clueless to all this electronic stuff, but I'm guessing that's not a good thing to use for them. If anyone can post a link with the one with the proper polarity for the 100v unit to be used with the 120v outlets that'd be awesome.


Edited by K_19 - 7/17/13 at 2:51pm
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