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post #23581 of 24765
Quote:
Originally Posted by DefQon View Post

Some here that have tried both models actually have opposite impressions compared to yours.

<smile>  As I said, everyone's ears and tastes are different.  A great deal depends on the specific recordings being listened to.  As always, ymmv.

post #23582 of 24765
Quote:
Originally Posted by spritzer View Post

It's more about following a product lineup they have generated piece-by-piece over the last 30 years.  They must have discovered that it was good business to have multiple sets even if they are all very similar.  The basic is just a continuation of the Lambda Pro from 1982, the Classic is the same as the Signature from 1987 and the Signature the Nova Signature from 1994.  It's always better to give people choice even if it is just the illusion of choice... 

Its the BNG way of marketing. (same product just Bold New Graphics or in this case color and cable)...most consumers just see it as a new and therefore better product then last years...

post #23583 of 24765

So, can someone with experience with the SRD-X, or an energizer like it, tell me how it stacks up compared to an actual dedicated amp? I have an SRD-X on my desk pre-amped by a Little Dot 1+, and it sounds really great. Best I've heard yet, certainly much better than the SRM-Xh, but I'm wondering just how much better I can get.

Also, what is the ideal type of amp to use as a pre-amp for an energizer? I'm currently under the impression that an amplifier optimized for low impedance headphones seems to work best.

post #23584 of 24765
I think Grokit is using his Woo wa2 as a preamp. :S

That said never used a preamp in any of Stax setups.
post #23585 of 24765

I am using my Asgard 2 as a pre-amp to my SRD-7/SB, it is doing a nice job...

post #23586 of 24765
What's special about the SRD-X besides the portability? FWIR isn't it suppose to have a volume control anyway?

The previous owner of my SRM-T1 decoupled the volume control from the circuit so I use my Nova as the pre-amp and it still sounds awesome.

Only problem is that doing so has sacrificed the analog balance control and there is a slight channel imbalance.

On that note, making the observation that many Stax amps have balance controls and channel imbalance seems to account for the bulk of their driver servicing - how prevalent is this and what are the consequences besides volume? I know in some cases channel imbalance is temporary but in other cases it is permanent (e. g. from driver arcing and such), but I'm curious as to the implications besides one channel being inherently louder than the other. In my experience it hasn't seemed to have a noticeable detriment to the sound after being compensated in either the analog or digital domain, so I have to wonder why "victims" of channel imbalance generally get their drivers replaced.
Edited by 3X0 - 7/15/13 at 2:55am
post #23587 of 24765

I sold off my imbalanced 404 and got myself another one with it's original box. If your Stax sounds imbalanced out of the blue, spritzers recommendation is for you to play music through it for 2 weeks as there could be a nasty left over charge sitting somewhere on the membrane, so letting it play music for a while will let it fix itself. 

post #23588 of 24765
Quote:
Originally Posted by DefQon View Post

I sold off my imbalanced 404 and got myself another one with it's original box.

 

If your Stax sounds imbalanced out of the blue, spritzers recommendation is for you to play music through it for 2 weeks as there could be a nasty left over charge sitting somewhere on the membrane, so letting it play music for a while will let it fix itself. 

Not as easy of an option with the HE60. redface.gif Best I can do is replace the drivers through Sennheiser and put the old ones up for sale. Though this route is complicated by the recently-discovered fact that my HEV70 seems to be faulty, and I understand Sennheiser needs them for testing the system. frown.gif

 

Going to try the music thing, since I recently got them back from Moon-Audio (replug to Stax Pro) and didn't notice the imbalance as much before the retermination. Problem is my hearing is only sensitive enough to pick up channel imbalance once in a blue moon...

post #23589 of 24765
Well at least Sennheiser still stocks spare drivers for the HE60/90, unlike Stax, once it's discontinued they don't have surplus NOS drivers unless you like paying near full retail price of them updating your earspeaker with the latest model transducer. For me when I notice my ears are playing tricks on me regards with channel imbalance, I use a db meter app on my phone that I use to measure the volume on each of the channel to confirm if it is actually happening.
post #23590 of 24765

Hi

 

I have made photos from my Stax SRM-717.

 

Now what to change to make the 100V Japanese Version to a 220V(240V) version?

 

I have unscrewed the board with the fuses and lifted it as bit to see better the labels on it.

 

Peter

post #23591 of 24765
I use a SR307 with a SRM1 MK2 and I'm very happy with this combo.
Is it worth to make a step to SR507 or SR404LE? Or better to go for Omega 007?
post #23592 of 24765

PSCHELBERT--Digging out my old 717[as Stax are not too forthcoming in giving out technical information]  The wire colors are wired identical in my 240V version but luckily enough unlike the 727 it is actually a lot easier than it looks. Like the old tube radios made for export with different voltage settings it is easy to adjust as all the tappings are soldered onto the PCB holding the mains fuses --as in your LAST picture. Your solid bars are in ---3 and 6- MINE---240V-- are in -- 2 and 5-- unless spritzer who has vast knowledge on Stax says otherwise - THAT'S where you move the  solid bars---simple-- [ Unless as I said Spritzer says different as I respect his viewpoint]   Also remember as you have increased the  VOLTAGE the ACTUAL current used will be less so the value of the big input surge limiting/ overload fuse Will be DIFFERENT!. From what I remember the 240V fuse is 600MA--BUT I found that to be too near the mark so I increased it to around 1 AMP-You don't have to do that but even working on the 717 didn't cause any problems and I tested it out by shorting 1 leg of each of the mains rectifiers and in each case the fuse blew. Hope this helps-- THE ABOVE- -- DOES NOT APPLY TO THE  727.   


Edited by duncan1 - 7/15/13 at 1:43pm
post #23593 of 24765
Jumpers 1,3 and 6 is definitely 100v
2,5 is definitely 240v.
2,4,6 is 120v.
3,5 is 220v.

Credits to kg and spritz as the above worked for my 323S.
post #23594 of 24765

My SRM1-MK1 went kaputz this morning. No smoke, or burnt smell, still seems operationally fine. Still using stock cap's as well. Sound comes out of the Right channel but no sound on Left. Even fed a RCA wired cable directly to the Left-input solder pad underneath the PCB and no sound. Both the normal bias jacks don't produce sound on the left side.

 

Rewired the RCA connectors just few days ago and cranked it up this morning, I did see a small blue spark from the white 630v bias wire that connects to the copper bridge across the 4 transistors. The problem was the white cable was just dangling on top of the bolt not secured down properly with the washer. 

 

Any ideas? Kg/spritzer?

post #23595 of 24765

Found Dr. Gilmore's message, maybe help.

 

LEAD Technologies Inc. V1.01

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