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post #23566 of 24765

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post #23567 of 24765

Hi

 

I have also a SRM-717, 100V japanese version. (use now transformer to adapt to 220V, 50Hz)

 

Now how to solder to get the 100V to 220V?

 

Can you give me the details how you did it?
 

 

Peter

post #23568 of 24765
Quote:
Originally Posted by tyre View Post

Here's a possible solution for the SRM-252 power supply. This isn't really a recommendation as I haven't tried this one myself, just a suggestion. It could potentially be a piece of junk.

http://www.jameco.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/Product_10001_10001_162996_-1

12VDC at 500mA with a 7812 linear regulator and a 2.1mm x 5.5mm connector.

A polarity reversing adapter would be needed for center negative, otherwise the cable would have to be cut and the wires reversed. This one looks correct but I'm not certain. You'd probably want to check it first with a multimeter to be sure.

http://www.elliottelectronicsupply.com/2-1mm-jack-2-1mm-plug-reverse-polarity-dc-power-supply-adaptor.html

There's a 1A version of the power supply as well, but it uses a non-standard regulator IC that I've never heard of.

The proper wall-wart that Stax provides with the North American SRM-252 is model no. 1240, 117V 60hz input, 12VDC at 400mA output, unregulated.

 

Ultimately, it would be easier to buy a 120V to 100V step-down transformer from Amazon and use the Japanese wall-wart you already have.
 

Will this work?

http://www.jameco.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/Product_10001_10001_203036_-1

 

Gawd dang it. Does an "unregulated" linear wall mount work? Or will that lead to my amp exploding too?

post #23569 of 24765
Quote:
Originally Posted by mudihan View Post

Does anyone know if the design below would also turn a SRD-6/7 into a Pro adaptor? 

 

http://www.headfonia.com/stax-srm-1mk2-bias-modification/#comment-960617449

 

No, that would never work.  No HV AC voltage to draw from so you need at least 6 stages in the multiplier. 

 

I made a PCB that does just this a few years ago and I always keep them "in stock" in case somebody needs one. 

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by pschelbert View Post

Hi

 

I have also a SRM-717, 100V japanese version. (use now transformer to adapt to 220V, 50Hz)

 

Now how to solder to get the 100V to 220V?

 

Can you give me the details how you did it?
 

 

Peter

 

Really depends on how Stax built you particular amp how this is done.  Open it up and follow the wires from the back of the transformer to find what Stax did on that unit.  Once we know that then we can say how to do it. 

post #23570 of 24765
Quote:
Originally Posted by wink View Post

Don't sell the 007 until you've done a long comparo between the 007 & 009.

 

Then sell the one you like least, or better still, keep both.

I don't think I'll sell the 007. I'm thinking of selling my HD800 rig and buying a SR009. It would simplify things since I had separate rigs so would be down to one if I went that way.

post #23571 of 24765
Quote:
Originally Posted by spritzer View Post

 

No, that would never work.  No HV AC voltage to draw from so you need at least 6 stages in the multiplier. 

 

I made a PCB that does just this a few years ago and I always keep them "in stock" in case somebody needs one. 

 

Thanks. I will keep that in mind when I get a Pro phone. 

post #23572 of 24765
Quote:
Originally Posted by wink View Post

Don't sell the 007 until you've done a long comparo between the 007 & 009.

Then sell the one you like least, or better still, keep both.

+1 Definitely keep both
post #23573 of 24765
Quote:
Originally Posted by rubenpp View Post


+1 Definitely keep both

I definitely prefer the SR-009s (the best cans I've ever heard bar none), but that said, I've gained a new respect for the SR-007 MKI since I got to hear it on my HeadAmp KGSS. If you can work it out, might be worth keeping both (or sell your HD800s and get an LCD-3).

post #23574 of 24765
Quote:
Originally Posted by telecaster View Post

 

Try the 407 and 507 you will love it. I never liked buying used headphones.


Personally, after listning to both 407 and 507, I went with the 407.  I felt there was a better overall balance.  Everyone has their tastes and everyone's ears are a bit different, too.  I heard more solidity in the bass in the 407's, and a bit less sharpness in the 507's.  Plenty of detail with both.  I don't think you would go wrong with either, but by all means, listen to both if at all possible. (It doesn't hurt that the 407's will deflate your wallet a tad less! dt880smile.png )

post #23575 of 24765

Seems like the highest end model of the Lambdas is often overlooked - I remember reading a review about a comparison between the SR-303 and SR-404 by 6moons, and not even they, of all people, claimed an audible difference between the two.

post #23576 of 24765
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bookbear View Post


Personally, after listning to both 407 and 507, I went with the 407.  I felt there was a better overall balance.  Everyone has their tastes and everyone's ears are a bit different, too.  I heard more solidity in the bass in the 407's, and a bit less sharpness in the 507's.  Plenty of detail with both.  I don't think you would go wrong with either, but by all means, listen to both if at all possible. (It doesn't hurt that the 407's will deflate your wallet a tad less! dt880smile.png )

Some here that have tried both models actually have opposite impressions compared to yours.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Tus-Chan View Post

Seems like the highest end model of the Lambdas is often overlooked - I remember reading a review about a comparison between the SR-303 and SR-404 by 6moons, and not even they, of all people, claimed an audible difference between the two.

 

That's because the 303 and 404 use identical transducers. The only difference is the grey/bluish vs brown colour and higher quality cables on the 404. If you could get a 303 and 404 at the same price, you would go for the 404 but if it's any cheaper the 303 is a good buy, but the colour is damn uglier looking then the brown.

post #23577 of 24765

If you could get a 303 and 404 at the same price, you would go for the 404 but if it's any cheaper the 303 is a good buy, but the colour is damn uglier looking then the brown.

 

Psssssssh. I own an SR-303. Anybody who buys a Stax Lambda is probably not concerned about looks in the first place.

If they use identical transducers, then why did Stax make an SR-404? Did they think nobody would figure it out or something? Why would anyone pay a ton more money for the same ugly headphone with a slightly different color scheme?

post #23578 of 24765

Quality control, set up time, cable material, better tested drivers and better tested don't know what.. comes to mind. Like Grado selling the same driver, but the best driver goes in the higher end models.

post #23579 of 24765
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tus-Chan View Post

 

Psssssssh. I own an SR-303. Anybody who buys a Stax Lambda is probably not concerned about looks in the first place.

If they use identical transducers, then why did Stax make an SR-404? Did they think nobody would figure it out or something? Why would anyone pay a ton more money for the same ugly headphone with a slightly different color scheme?

It had better newer cables. lol

Quote:
Originally Posted by telecaster View Post

Quality control, set up time, cable material, better tested drivers and better tested don't know what.. comes to mind. Like Grado selling the same driver, but the best driver goes in the higher end models.

This ^. There are few who can chime in as to why they did this.

post #23580 of 24765

It's more about following a product lineup they have generated piece-by-piece over the last 30 years.  They must have discovered that it was good business to have multiple sets even if they are all very similar.  The basic is just a continuation of the Lambda Pro from 1982, the Classic is the same as the Signature from 1987 and the Signature the Nova Signature from 1994.  It's always better to give people choice even if it is just the illusion of choice... 

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