Head-Fi.org › Forums › Summit-Fi (High-End Audio) › High-end Audio Forum › The Stax thread (New)
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:

The Stax thread (New) - Page 156

post #2326 of 18428
Quote:
Originally Posted by Carl View Post
Lucky you.
No, shopaholic me. Better make that 5 headphones because I just bought a SR-003.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Carl View Post
So you have the schematic? Could you PM me with it or post it up here?
PM me your email so I can send it to you and the parts list. I don't want it in the public domain unless it is accurate.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Carl View Post
Penny/Giles or TKD would be perferable to me anyway. Alps make nice sounding stuff, but am hardly a fond of the prissy nature of the company.
I will only use Alps because it is the best and used by those that only care about performance. P&G and TKD are both very nice and I'm going to use P&G in the Blue Hawaii if I can't find a 4 deck RK50 at an almost sane price.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Carl View Post
AC would give us an excuse to play around with ballast tubes...
True and AC is also simpler to implement. Sennheiser used a 12.6v filament and we need 1.620A or 3.240A@6.3V. A Hammond transformer for that costs about 20$ and will give us a much wider choice with the main transformer.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Carl View Post
With indirectly heated tubes the difference isn't anywhere near as great as it is with directly heated tubes. DC gives one the advantages of regulation, but regulators are another circuit and more expense. Without regulation the tubes will take a lot of power at turnon due to the low parts temperatures and thus low resistance.
An overspeced transformer is a must. I really don't want to deal with the DC headache unless there is any hum.
post #2327 of 18428
Quote:
Originally Posted by spritzer View Post
It wouldn't be wise because it's unpredictable how the other source will behave when you feed the outputstage voltage but if it's turned off you should be able to do it. If you have no need for the loop out it's simple to add a switch so they will function as two inputs.
Adding a switch would be more of a hassle than unplugging one set of cables, and plugging in another, when I want to switch sources. Besides, I'd rather keep the SRM-3 original. But thanks anyway for the suggestion. I may eventually build or buy a switchbox, though, if I decide to keep using both sources.
post #2328 of 18428
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by spritzer View Post
No, shopaholic me. Better make that 5 headphones because I just bought a SR-003.
Hehe.

Quote:
PM me your email so I can send it to you and the parts list. I don't want it in the public domain unless it is accurate.
Fair enough, too. It's cambridgecarl[at]yahoo[dot]co[dot]nz.

Quote:
True and AC is also simpler to implement. Sennheiser used a 12.6v filament and we need 1.620A or 3.240A@6.3V. A Hammond transformer for that costs about 20$ and will give us a much wider choice with the main transformer.
Quite right. Investing all that effort getting the ripple down just for an IDHT heater is probably going to be wasted effort. We can always build a DC supply after the fact if hum creaps in, but as long as we ground and seperate things properly I don't forsee that happening.

Quote:
An overspeced transformer is a must.
Definately. I'd like something with a higher flux core like nanocrystaline/cobalt would be my preference, I want the amp to be fast.
post #2329 of 18428
Quote:
Originally Posted by feckn_eejit View Post
Just paid Tachyon for the ESC-1001. Ended up at $680CDN with shipping. We'll see what happens with tax/duty when it gets to Canada...
Sorry if I've missed the post but are you buying it directly from Tachyon or via a third party? It's mostly out of interest, I'm not planning to pick one up myself at this point. I have other plans but the less said about that the better for the time being.
post #2330 of 18428
Quote:
Originally Posted by spritzer View Post
Ps. If you want to learn something in Icelandic to impress your daughter just let me know.
All right! What would you say in Icelandic for "That's cool dude" or whatever is closest in meaning.
post #2331 of 18428
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by mirumu View Post
Sorry if I've missed the post but are buying off them directly from Tachyon or via a third party? It's mostly out of interest, I'm not planning to pick one up myself at this point. I have other plans but the less said about that the better for the time being.
I'm pretty sure someone at Tachyon speaks English, as they always seem to reply to people's email enquiries. I haven't spoken to them myself, however.

They do do direct sales to people outside of Japan.
post #2332 of 18428
Jack Yamazaki at Tachyon speaks English. I am dealing directly with him. He sent me a PayPal invoice in JPY. Now, I wait (im)patiently
post #2333 of 18428
Quote:
Originally Posted by Carl View Post
Fair enough, too. It's ... .
I'll send it now along with the reply from Justin.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Carl View Post
Quite right. Investing all that effort getting the ripple down just for an IDHT heater is probably going to be wasted effort. We can always build a DC supply after the fact if hum creaps in, but as long as we ground and seperate things properly I don't forsee that happening.
Keep it simple is always a good design goal.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Carl View Post
Definately. I'd like something with a higher flux core like nanocrystaline/cobalt would be my preference, I want the amp to be fast.
The problem is getting the good stuff with a 230v primary. I think Tamura is available and ISO/Tango but I'm not sure. Then there is always Lundahl and Magnequest.

Quote:
Originally Posted by edstrelow View Post
All right! What would you say in Icelandic for "That's cool dude" or whatever is closest in meaning.
"Þetta er svalt". We don't have anything similar to dude so that would be dropped. The Þ sound is written th but sounds much more like the start of theory rather then Thor. "Er" is pronounced like the end of care. "Svalt" should be easy. The trick to speaking Icelandic is to let it flow and not to force it. I have quite a few foreigners working for me so I'm getting used to teach our complicated language.
post #2334 of 18428
Well, this is blespemy... found the Stax thread on the 8th page....
Bumping..
Bumping...
Bumping.... to where it belongs!!!
Would the T1W drive the HE60s decently, since its similar to the T1?
How would it fair with the O2s? Not good I'm guessing?
post #2335 of 18428
Oh, by the way... they're baaaack....
http://cgi.ebay.de/STAX-OMEGA-1-HEAD...QQcmdZViewItem
post #2336 of 18428
Quote:
Originally Posted by jigster View Post
Oh, by the way... they're baaaack....
http://cgi.ebay.de/STAX-OMEGA-1-HEAD...QQcmdZViewItem
Yes, and in the UK, too:

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/STAX-OMEGA-1-H...QQcmdZViewItem

Who on earth would sell something like this, when they have only negative feedback (and a 'new' [=dodgy] member to give a positive, so the feedback rating is 0!)?

Or am I just too suspicious?
post #2337 of 18428
Quote:
Originally Posted by jigster View Post
Would the T1W drive the HE60s decently, since its similar to the T1?
How would it fair with the O2s? Not good I'm guessing?
The T1W is identical to the T1S and should be fine with the HE60 but it doesn't have the power for the O2's. It can drive them and you could be very happy until you hear them driven by an amp that can really take control of them.
post #2338 of 18428
Quote:
Originally Posted by jigster View Post
Oh, by the way... they're baaaack....
http://cgi.ebay.de/STAX-OMEGA-1-HEAD...QQcmdZViewItem
Damn! When will the SR-Omega scammers go away?
They keep on creating new auctions using pictures used in previous real auctions, and people bid on them...
post #2339 of 18428
By the way:

Is AudioCubesII's price of 75 bucks about as good as I'll find for the Omega 2 replacement cushions (brown)?

They generally have the best prices, and, from what Spritzer says, it would be wise to have a set of cushions tucked away...
post #2340 of 18428
Running in off-topic. How many have heard the Rudistor Egmont? I have read the review here of it, but that is the only source of info I see. I read the information on the Rudistor website about it - and it looks like it can drive anything from Lambdas to Omegas nicely, with 900 Vpp (as opposed to Stax amplifiers that top out at 450 Vpp). I have asked Rudi a few questions regrading some terminology he uses and equalization of the amp, but do we have anyone else but Nik and Reviewer with impressions?

(Utterly tempted to bite it, but gonna need to generate another 500 bucks somehow so need to decently justify it).
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:
  Return Home
  Back to Forum: High-end Audio Forum
Head-Fi.org › Forums › Summit-Fi (High-End Audio) › High-end Audio Forum › The Stax thread (New)