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post #23131 of 24765

my krell's do that, and its likely the tubes or the transformer, so its more or less normal.

post #23132 of 24765
Quote:
Originally Posted by davidsh View Post

Seems my T1 makes ticking noises when turned off when it is particularly hot. That's normal?

 

My tube amp does that both after just turn on and turn off. I think its the tubes warming and cooling.

post #23133 of 24765

Yup I can hear the differences between 24/192 and 24/96 very easily. I can't believe people say there's no difference between 24/96 and 16/44. They must be deaf or something. /s

 

No, you can't, because there is literally no difference aside from some extra ultrasonic distortion present in both (if anything, the 24/96 and 24/192 should sound theoretically worse than the 16/44). Any sort of understanding of the Nyquist sampling theorem proves this beyond a shadow of a doubt. Any complex waveform can be flawlessly sampled at twice the highest frequency in the source material. 


Edited by Tus-Chan - 6/23/13 at 6:58pm
post #23134 of 24765

Here we go again.

 

Messing the thread with those who can/ think they can and those who can't/know they can't.

 

Take it to the sound science forum and have at it....

 

Sound meters and audiologist reports at ten meters.   Turn at the sound at 22KHz @ 24/192 and fire away at will.

post #23135 of 24765
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tus-Chan View Post

Yup I can hear the differences between 24/192 and 24/96 very easily. I can't believe people say there's no difference between 24/96 and 16/44. They must be deaf or something. /s

 

No, you can't, because there is literally no difference aside from some extra ultrasonic distortion present in both (if anything, the 24/96 and 24/192 should sound theoretically worse than the 16/44). Any sort of understanding of the Nyquist sampling theorem proves this beyond a shadow of a doubt. Any complex waveform can be flawlessly sampled at twice the highest frequency in the source material. 

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by miceblue View Post

Yup I can hear the differences between 24/192 and 24/96 very easily. I can't believe people say there's no difference between 24/96 and 16/44. They must be deaf or something. /s

You missed the invisible /s there. :p

I can't even tell the difference between V0 LAME and 16/44 FLAC, let alone 16/44 downsampled from 24/96.

post #23136 of 24765
Quote:
Originally Posted by davidsh View Post

Seems my T1 makes ticking noises when turned off when it is particularly hot. That's normal?

Nearly all my tube amp's do this on power up when the cathodes are delivered the currents on heating up phase, almost sounds like crackling noises sometimes. This is normal. But if you start hearing loud crackling noises with lightening strikes going off within the tube, turn the amp off immediately as this is a short.

post #23137 of 24765
Quote:
Originally Posted by DefQon View Post

Nearly all my tube amp's do this on power up when the cathodes are delivered the currents on heating up phase, almost sounds like crackling noises sometimes. This is normal. But if you start hearing loud crackling noises with lightening strikes going off within the tube, turn the amp off immediately as this is a short.

 

Heard crackling noise once while I was warming up my tube amp through my HE-6. With no music playing and my headphone on the table next to me I started hearing a crackling noise from them. So I looked at my Audio Research tube amp and with its cover off, one of the 6550 output tube was imploding inside, blue and red inside. Switch it off, let the tubes cool off, changed the damaged tube, turn it back on, re-bias it, and it worked again. No damage to the amp nor my HE-6.

post #23138 of 24765
Quote:
Originally Posted by wuwhere View Post

 

Heard crackling noise once while I was warming up my tube amp through my HE-6. With no music playing and my headphone on the table next to me I started hearing a crackling noise from them. So I looked at my Audio Research tube amp and with its cover off, one of the 6550 output tube was imploding inside, blue and red inside. Switch it off, let the tubes cool off, changed the damaged tube, turn it back on, re-bias it, and it worked again. No damage to the amp nor my HE-6.

Luckily no damage done. Not long ago I purchased a quad set of Gold Lion EL84/6BQ5 tubes from a ebay seller that claimed to be working in his Leben CX300 amp. I received the tubes although in new condition (org box, no scratches or such), but rather poorly packed especially having it shipped from Greece. I plugged them into my integrated amplifier and a good 20-30 seconds, bang, bang, bangggg I shat bricks due to the wonderful display of blue lightening strikes going off within the tubes, I immediately turned off the amp. No damage done to my speakers or amp. 

post #23139 of 24765
Quote:
Originally Posted by DefQon View Post

Luckily no damage done. Not long ago I purchased a quad set of Gold Lion EL84/6BQ5 tubes from a ebay seller that claimed to be working in his Leben CX300 amp. I received the tubes although in new condition (org box, no scratches or such), but rather poorly packed especially having it shipped from Greece. I plugged them into my integrated amplifier and a good 20-30 seconds, bang, bang, bangggg I shat bricks due to the wonderful display of blue lightening strikes going off within the tubes, I immediately turned off the amp. No damage done to my speakers or amp. 

 

Did you get a refund? I can't remember if I bought mine used from Agon or ebay. Anyway I emailed the guy as to what happened. I was going to ship back the remaining 3 out of 4. He refunded me all of my money and let me keep the rest of the tubes.

post #23140 of 24765

I recognize this from when I had my HE60 and HEV70. Check whether it still happens when you ground the case of the SRD-7/SB.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ali-Pacha View Post

Just noticed a (very) strange thing : I can hear music when I've an unplugged Stax on my head...and touch my SRD-7/SB blink.gif

Is there any electrical isolation issue with my SRD-7 ???

 

Ali

 

 

If you don't have an explanation for it, it doesn't automatically mean it's impossible. I agree it sounds unlikely at first. I can't explain it either, but it has happened to me too.

Quote:
Originally Posted by davidsh View Post


If the pins of the Stax plug aren't touching anything it should be impossible.

post #23141 of 24765
Quote:
Originally Posted by wuwhere View Post

 

Did you get a refund? I can't remember if I bought mine used from Agon or ebay. Anyway I emailed the guy as to what happened. I was going to ship back the remaining 3 out of 4. He refunded me all of my money and let me keep the rest of the tubes.

Yep sure did, I even made a post about it here and linked him to it. It was a massive shame the tubes ended up duds, still have them too.

post #23142 of 24765
Quote:
Originally Posted by Michgelsen View Post

I recognize this from when I had my HE60 and HEV70. Check whether it still happens when you ground the case of the SRD-7/SB

 

Thanks. I will try this evening. This phenomenon does not happen at all with my correctly grounded SRM-727II (no "hum). Ali
Edited by Ali-Pacha - 6/24/13 at 4:56am
post #23143 of 24765
Quote:
Originally Posted by DefQon View Post

Luckily no damage done. Not long ago I purchased a quad set of Gold Lion EL84/6BQ5 tubes from a ebay seller that claimed to be working in his Leben CX300 amp. I received the tubes although in new condition (org box, no scratches or such), but rather poorly packed especially having it shipped from Greece. I plugged them into my integrated amplifier and a good 20-30 seconds, bang, bang, bangggg I shat bricks due to the wonderful display of blue lightening strikes going off within the tubes, I immediately turned off the amp. No damage done to my speakers or amp. 

I've had some shorts in the PL519 power pentodes of my EAR 549 monos which burnt some resistors and even part of the PC-board. After that my tech friend retro-fitted fuses in the power supplies. The last time one of them blew I checked the tubes via my bias control when the mono was idle after replacing the fuse and found the weakest of the four, replaced it and rebiased and everything is A-OK again.

 

Apparently with NOS or old used power tubes it can happen that they short or overheat (German: "Rotbäckchen") when they are used after a long period of storage. Same with old capacitors, one should increase the voltage slowly before using them and then they will work quite well again. But older electrolytics should always be replaced IMO.

 

But with the fully balanced 4 output tubes of my EARs it can happen that one of the PL519s dies and you won't realize it as the mono just keeps playing. Only at higher listening levels the flaw gets audible.

 

I had Klimo Linnett 100 W monos before which use six EL34 per channel. Every time one pulls one pair of the power tubes the output is less but they still work with only one pair of EL34.

BTW I would love to try my LNS with a Stax adapter via the speaker outputs of my EAR monos. 200 W/ch. should be enough for even the Stax diva, the 009. Not that I could afford one ...

 

Which adapter would be the best for this try-out? Has someone on this forum one for sale at a reasonable price? TIA.


Edited by yawg - 6/24/13 at 5:14am
post #23144 of 24765

Indeed it is a good practice to reform capacitors using a transformer with a resistor or a variac and slowly "reform" the capacitor to the working rated voltage. But usually this is only a process for higher rated capacitors. A pain in the ass process though.

post #23145 of 24765
I'm also looking for a both normal/pro amp or energizer. The aim is to have one more amp allowing listening from different sources, since my SRM-727II (no laughs, BHSE maniacs !) is plugged in XLR on my main source and has no real input selection. Headphones : SR-5, SR-X mk3 and SR-009 Since SRD-7 mk2 (SB or not) is very rare, SRM-T1 expensive...is the SRM-1 mk2 the definitive choice ? Ali
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