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post #22381 of 24765

Thanks for the schematics for the SRM T1 bigsmile_face.gif Is there also a user manual?
 

post #22382 of 24765

For future reference when I can actually spend more than $1000 on audio gear, where and how much would a Stax SR-Lambda Signature with amp cost me?

 

How does the SR-404 compare to the SR-Lambda Signature?

How does the SR-404LE compare to the SR-Lambda Signature?

How does the SR-507 compare to the SR-Lambda Signature?

 

What Stax amp should I get to power the aforementioned earspeakers? I know nothing about amps and electrostatic headphones other than the Blue Hawaii SE and Cavalli Audio Liquid Lightning (way too expensive).

 

I've tried a SR-007 MKI before and really liked it. It didn't "wow" me like the SR-Lambda Signature though and it's far too expensive for me.


Edited by miceblue - 5/20/13 at 11:47pm
post #22383 of 24765

If budget is limited, SR202 isn't a bad choice.  L3000.gif

 

Wachara C.

post #22384 of 24765
Quote:
Originally Posted by chinsettawong View Post

If budget is limited, SR202 isn't a bad choice.  L3000.gif

 

Wachara C.

Hm I'll consider it. Stax's description for the 202 doesn't mention the Lambda in it. XD

post #22385 of 24765

SRM-T1S (balanced input) + any of the Lambda's has a good sound to it.

 

That said when I might be offloading my 202's for cheap soon, so be in for the look out in the F/S forums if you want a good entry into Stax.

post #22386 of 24765
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tus-Chan View Post

Does the foam in the Lambdas make any difference in the ability of the drivers to withstand dust, or can I just take it out? I don't like how it looks.

After I've replaced the pads of my LNS with new leather pads I found that the foam had faded to almost invisibility and the drivers are loose in the cups. Is there a good solution to fix the drivers from the outside so they cannot move anymore? I don't want to remove the new pads again and the sound of the set seems OK to me.

 

Thanks for any suggestions.

post #22387 of 24765
Quote:
Originally Posted by spritzer View Post

Have you done any mods to the cups?  That foam stuff they recommend for the "official" mod went too far for my tastes and felt was even worse.  I went with similar stuff you see around high end tweeters to control the diffraction and it smoothed them out just enough. 

 

Also, try some electrical damping.  You could just find some dual gang linear pots and find your ideal setting with them. 

 I have bought the self-stick foam sheets for the "Anaxilus Mod"  but have not actually done any mods on the HD800's.  

 

>>similar stuff you see around high end tweeters<<

 

I sometimes see fairly thick felt with an angular "starburst" pattern cut into it to present a greater surface area to the tweeter at a lower angle of incidence, but I assume you mean something else.  Basotect maybe?

post #22388 of 24765
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rico613 View Post

At the risk of being a head-fi heretic, I'm using a RANE DEQ 60L 30 band parametric equalizer that helps with the 'too bright' thing on the HD 800s and has other advantages as well. There are software equalizers that look like they would do much the same thing.

Yeah  I dial in some EQ too, using DSP in my PC.  But it's more than a frequency response peak-  there's some stored energy that rings back at the frequency and EQ can't deal with time-domain issues like this mild ringing.

post #22389 of 24765

Which is why using dampening material to mod the insides of the cups can help mask / reduce this stored up treble energy around 5-6k. It's still a bright sounding headphone sure, but couple a modded HD800 with a good powerful tube amp is musical bliss to these ears. 

post #22390 of 24765
Quote:
Originally Posted by yawg View Post

After I've replaced the pads of my LNS with new leather pads I found that the foam had faded to almost invisibility and the drivers are loose in the cups. Is there a good solution to fix the drivers from the outside so they cannot move anymore? I don't want to remove the new pads again and the sound of the set seems OK to me.

 

Thanks for any suggestions.

 

You don't need to remove the earpads to get into the cups, just lift up the 4 corners. 

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by milosz View Post

 I have bought the self-stick foam sheets for the "Anaxilus Mod"  but have not actually done any mods on the HD800's.  

 

>>similar stuff you see around high end tweeters<<

 

I sometimes see fairly thick felt with an angular "starburst" pattern cut into it to present a greater surface area to the tweeter at a lower angle of incidence, but I assume you mean something else.  Basotect maybe?

 

I meant the stuff used by SEAS and others.  It's a bit like suede but courser. 

post #22391 of 24765
Quote:
Originally Posted by spritzer View Post

 

You don't need to remove the earpads to get into the cups, just lift up the 4 corners.

I don't understand "lift up the 4 corners". The pads are glued to the edge of the inside of the frames and cannot be lifted.

 

BTW how are the drivers hold in place in the Lambda Sig. frames? I don't want to replace the foam and would like my Nova Sigs also without foam but without the drivers moving in the frames.

 

On the photo you can see the rest of the foam. It just vanishes into thin air ...

 

 

TIA for a good workable solution.

post #22392 of 24765
Each corner is secured down by a screw. You don't need to rip the whole pad off to access them just left the corners up. They are not glued down but held down with a strong type of double sided 3M tape.
Edited by DefQon - 5/21/13 at 3:26pm
post #22393 of 24765
Quote:
Originally Posted by spritzer View Post

I meant the stuff used by SEAS and others.  It's a bit like suede but courser. 

I'm trying to track down a source.

 

I can't find anything on the SEAS site.  I have some speakers with SEAS Excel tweeters, they don't have any sort of 'damping' material on the tweeter surrounding face.

 

Alcantara? Micro-suede? (made of 'microfiber' polyester) - something like the velour that covers the HD800 earpads?

post #22394 of 24765
Quote:
Originally Posted by spritzer View Post

 

You don't need to remove the earpads to get into the cups, just lift up the 4 corners. 

 

Wished I'd seen this or asked around before ripping off my pads...how does one align the drivers ?

 

TIA

post #22395 of 24765

I have the SR-007 Mk2.5 arriving shortly and was looking at gettin either the LL2 or BHSE (leaning towards the LL2). Would it be more wise to go for the SRM-717 (heard it's basically a KGSS with the Stax name) and save for the SR-009? 


Edited by Clsmooth391 - 5/21/13 at 9:25pm
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