CV-181-Z (or 6SN7) adapted to 6CG7 pins.
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Got the SE846 last week and did some hours of comparison with my current SE535. My bias was towards keeping them - I like flagship products as a "there is nothing better" products, i.e. do not...
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The Stax thread (New) - Page 1477post #22141 of 247655/6/13 at 5:38pm
Gear mentioned in this thread:post #22142 of 247655/6/13 at 6:01pmQuote:
It's probably round two with the cat... the first time was indeed with the HE6 stock cable, no harm no foul because it was eventually replaced with a warranty exchange of the headphones. The second time was also with the HE6, but could have been one of the dogs... and I'm pretty sure I know which one. The second HE6 cable was aftermarket, a DHC Molecule that was wrapped in fabric sheathing...Peter was very nice about helping me out with it, but it still sucked big time.
As far as I can tell the cat isn't attracted to the cables with sheathing on them, he likes the plastic/vinyl type of insulation. The dogs OTOH aren't as particular... I have patched more than a few USB cables in my time but they took it to a new level with that 2nd HE6 cable. But with the 009 the cat is now firmly in the lead... Mitigation measures are now in place.post #22143 of 247655/6/13 at 7:54pmpost #22144 of 247655/7/13 at 4:53am
I am looking to modifya soon to arrive new unit 100V SRM006TS to 220V. In this thread page 985, post 147262, Plinden said he just had to resolder the missing wire and to jumper the board. Is it the same procedure as the 323 voltage mod? I can't seem to find the answer for the tube amp 006ts.
Here is his shot of his transformer
I don't have the amp yet, but the few shots of its guts didn't show this kind of transformer 0_opost #22145 of 247655/7/13 at 7:39am
Turns out I got two SRD-X Pro's, color me surprised. Anyway, here is what it looks like on the inside:
Two of those modules with a switching PSU to generate the bias voltage (the tiny transformer is between the output transformers) in the middle make up the amp. The output is then fed to the transformers on the right which step up the voltage. They are nice enough and it would be cool to put that large battery bay to some good use.
I must say though that I'm more impressed by this rare piece of Stax history:
It is rather nice.
That would be my first source of problems, either the tubes or the adapters. I also see very little sense is using regular GT 6SN7's in that amp, they are even worse than the 6CG7. You need GTA's or GTB's with their better voltage handling.post #22146 of 247655/7/13 at 9:07am
The Shuguangs have the same voltage handling specs as the GTA/GTB, so there's no real problem there. I noticed the same problem with another set of GTBs anyway.
I'll give the regular 6CG7s another go to see if that makes a difference. I still don't understand why an adapted tube would "sing" like that, what could possibly cause that?
Heh, I do remember seeing an SRA-14S on YJ a few weeks back. Is it any better than the SRM-1mk2? I remember Snake gushing about it once upon a time.
Edited by Tachikoma - 5/7/13 at 9:12ampost #22147 of 247655/7/13 at 10:54ampost #22148 of 247655/7/13 at 12:02pm
is it possible to use the SRA 14S with the ED-1 equalizer. Or am I only too stupid to get the right combination. I would like to ask for some help, because my main sources are phono and tuner and I want to use my ED-1 with these sources.
PS: Have you the card for the CP-Y pickup? I'm really looking for that one:-)) (I can swap any other card!)
post #22149 of 247655/7/13 at 2:45pm
rather new down there...I've a question on my SR-X Mk-III.
My father bought this one with an SR-5 and an SR-7/SB adapter (in 1979).
These two work nice (even if there are one or two cracks in the white plastic of the SR-5), but I have a problem with the SR-X Mk-III : at low-level, the sound is crackling (both cans, but not symmetric), and these interferences / crackles are modified by touching the cable.
I've opened the cans, obviously it looks like this :
Main difference : I have a kind of big black cap beetween yellow and green connector.
Last but not least, the very thin vinyl / faux-leather covering the earpads is gone, only a smooth cotton-like surface covering the foam is remaining.
Exactly like this one : http://kenrockwell.com/audio/stax/images/sr-x-mark-3/D3S_5002-0600.jpg
Any idea where the crackles do come from ? Should I try to get this headphone re-cabled ? Or are the drivers dead ?
Alipost #22150 of 247655/7/13 at 4:10pmpost #22151 of 247655/7/13 at 7:29pmpost #22152 of 247655/7/13 at 8:10pmpost #22153 of 247655/7/13 at 9:09pmpost #22154 of 247655/7/13 at 9:14pm
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