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post #21046 of 24765
Quote:
Originally Posted by Michgelsen View Post

A lot of people use Japanese Stax amps outside of Japan. Some of the older Stax amps can easily be converted to accept different voltages by means of a voltage selector (in the form of a jumper block) on the back. Newer amps however do not have this ability, and need to be used with a step-down transformer. Alternatively, it is possible to open up the amp and reconnect the wires from the transformer for your targeted voltage, but this is difficult and requires soldering. In case of the smaller amps (SRM-212, 252 etc.) that use an external power brick, you can buy a new suitable power brick for the correct input voltage.

Thanks Michgelsen, this is helpful and reassuring.  I was thinking of another solution, driving the STAX headphones through a Lyr + Wee combo--does this make sense?  It comes to about the same price, and I'd have some versatility with the Lyr to drive non-electrostatic phones.   Thanks in advance for your thoughts.

post #21047 of 24765
Quote:
Originally Posted by ALSO View Post

Forgive me for returning to this point, but I am considering purchasing a STAX system here in Japan, since the prices are much better than in the US.  But I see the drivers are set for the Japanese standard 100V 50/60.  I'm planning eventually to use the system in the US, which is 120V/60. I realize there is usually some flexibility, but I don't want to take any chances with these.  Any thoughts or advice?  (And please forgive me if this subject has been covered earlier in the thread--I've just jumped in toward the end.)  Thanks in advance. 

I bought a Stax 323A amp from Japan for use in the US.

 

I use this step up/down transformer and it works great.

post #21048 of 24765
Quote:
Originally Posted by ALSO View Post

I was thinking of another solution, driving the STAX headphones through a Lyr + Wee combo--does this make sense?  It comes to about the same price, and I'd have some versatility with the Lyr to drive non-electrostatic phones.

 

Yes, that's another possibility. I'm not sure whether you can use the Lyr or the Wee in both a 100 and a 120 volt environment though, you'll have to ask them.

 

I have no experience with transformer boxes to power Stax headphones, but seeing that all of the experienced 'stat lovers around here use dedicated electrostatic amps, I assume transformer boxes are inferior to at least some extent. For the price of a Lyr + Wee you can buy a good Stax amp, but I understand why you want to go the 'versatile' route and combine dynamic and electrostatic amplification. In your situation, with the voltage problem, and also with Japanese prices, a SRM-252 would be a good option because you can change the power brick. I think some people around here would prefer a 252 over a Wee. They should cost roughly the same if I'm not mistaken.


Edited by Michgelsen - 2/19/13 at 4:35pm
post #21049 of 24765
Quote:
Originally Posted by Michgelsen View Post

 

Yes, that's another possibility. I'm not sure whether you can use the Lyr or the Wee in both a 100 and a 120 volt environment though, you'll have to ask them.

 

I have no experience with transformer boxes to power Stax headphones, but seeing that all of the experienced 'stat lovers around here use dedicated electrostatic amps, I assume transformer boxes are inferior to at least some extent. For the price of a Lyr + Wee you can buy a good Stax amp, but I understand why you want to go the 'versatile' route and combine dynamic and electrostatic amplification. In your situation, with the voltage problem, and also with Japanese prices, a SRM-252 would be a good option because you can change the power brick. I think some people around here would prefer a 252 over a Wee. They should cost roughly the same if I'm not mistaken.

Terrific, thank you Michgelsen, and for your patience with me.  I can indeed get a 252S for a relatively cheap price, but would you recommend it to drive say a 507?  Here in Tokyo it's paired with a lower end 207.  Thanks again.

post #21050 of 24765
Quote:
Originally Posted by Nemeske88 View Post

 

Thanks. I am mainly worry about installing the new foam and the wool in correct depth to avoid any change in its sound signature and also that the wool might be bursted apart while "detaching" it from the doublesiders. 

The wool makes no difference at all with the sound signature, in fact you can remove it and not hear any differences at all. The outer foam of the yellow wool in my Lamda Pro's deteriorated to the point when I touched it it became sticky so I just removed the outer foam and kept the wool intact when I was recabling a problem with the cables on my LP's.

 

Spritzer was one of the first to confirm this, I didn't believe it till I tried it myself. But I have to admit the yellow wool is ugly by itself I wanted to remove it but I thought it best stay in it as it looks hollow without it just the bare drivers showing and it acts as a dust protector as well (if you haven't already have a dust protector for these vintage headphones)..

 

Hope this helped.


Edited by DefQon - 2/19/13 at 5:38pm
post #21051 of 24765

DefQon, that is so surprising! This is a wool lining on the outer casing? Is there another foam layer between the outer case and electrode? Else a foam layer between the electrode and the ear right against the electrode (it which it is indeed to imagine it is much more influencial than outer case wool lining)?

 

In any case, the outer case wool lining should improve the imaging (minimizing reflections from the casing) and/or help counter some frame cavity resonance but indeed it may be minor compared to the foam against the electrode used for driver damping / as acoustic filter (when between the ear and the electrode) to shape the tonal balance.

post #21052 of 24765
Quote:
Originally Posted by arnaud View Post

DefQon, that is so surprising! This is a wool lining on the outer casing? Is there another foam layer between the outer case and electrode? Else a foam layer between the electrode and the ear right against the electrode (it which it is indeed to imagine it is much more influencial than outer case wool lining)?

 

In any case, the outer case wool lining should improve the imaging (minimizing reflections from the casing) and/or help counter some frame cavity resonance but indeed it may be minor compared to the foam against the electrode used for driver damping / as acoustic filter (when between the ear and the electrode) to shape the tonal balance.

Hi Arnaud,

 

Inside the stator chamber is a yellow wool lining that is double taped in 4 various places (at least for my Lambda Pro's) to the frame housing which blocks off most of the vents. Outside the wool is a thin layer of very course brown looking foam which sits in between the inner vents of the housing and the yellow wool lining. I originally thought it as some sort of dampening method Stax used to prevent the sound from sounding too bright but I was wrong when I had them removed to recable the Pro's due to a problem. Unfortunately the thin layer of foam that sits outside the yellow wool lining started to crumble when I touched it I removed it completely after seeing reports from other's that it does not have any effect on the sound properties at all and those people were right. 

 

Seeing it hard to find another pair of Pro's in the condition mine are in and the price I purchased them for I carefully removed the deteriorating foam and taped back the yellow wool lining to the inner frame again, it doesn't look aesthetically pleasing but it may help as a dust guard while they sit on my HPS-1 stand.

 

Also I have tried but unable to find a proper replacement foam which I want to install back inside, it could some sort of proprietary foam Stax use.

post #21053 of 24765
Quote:
Originally Posted by ALSO View Post

Terrific, thank you Michgelsen, and for your patience with me.  I can indeed get a 252S for a relatively cheap price, but would you recommend it to drive say a 507?  Here in Tokyo it's paired with a lower end 207.  Thanks again.

 

Let me first say that I'm not a real believer in incremental amp upgrades. I have found differences between amps to be generally small. The Lambda series, which the 207 and 507 are part of, are relatively easy to drive. A 507 is not that different from a 207, design wise, meaning that if the 252S does fine with the 207, it's a reasonable assumption that it will also do fine with the 507. If the 207 is anything like the 202, its sound is not lower end at all!

 

Stax amps are well made and good value for money. The bigger amps have more power, so depending on your budget, you might want to buy one of the bigger Stax amps, for example a 323 or a 006t. In case you're really going for the top-of-the-line Stax (007/009), you can step up to even bigger amps: 727, KGSS and beyond.

 

Personally, I would choose a 252S over a Wee. But then again, I don't have to combine a dynamic/speaker system with my electrostatic system.

 

What Stax headphones do you plan to drive? Seeing that you're in Tokyo, there should be a few places where you can go listen to Stax systems: a luxury that many of us here don't have. I'd say, go try some out, and don't let the thought that more expensive = better get in the way.


Edited by Michgelsen - 2/20/13 at 2:36am
post #21054 of 24765
Quote:
Originally Posted by Michgelsen View Post

 

Let me first say that I'm not a real believer in incremental amp upgrades. I have found differences between amps to be generally small. The Lambda series, which the 207 and 507 are part of, are relatively easy to drive. A 507 is not that different from a 207, design wise, meaning that if the 252S does fine with the 207, it's a reasonable assumption that it will also do fine with the 507. If the 207 is anything like the 202, its sound is not lower end at all!

 

Stax amps are well made and good value for money. The bigger amps have more power, so depending on your budget, you might want to buy one of the bigger Stax amps, for example a 323 or a 006t. In case you're really going for the top-of-the-line Stax (007/009), you can step up to even bigger amps: 727, KGSS and beyond.

 

Personally, I would choose a 252S over a Wee. But then again, I don't have to combine a dynamic/speaker system with my electrostatic system.

 

What Stax headphones do you plan to drive? Seeing that you're in Tokyo, there should be a few places where you can go listen to Stax systems: a luxury that many of us here don't have. I'd say, go try some out, and don't let the thought that more expensive = better get in the way.

Michgelsen,

 

Your responses are invaluable, thank you.  I've listened to the STAX lineup several times since coming to Tokyo, but only ever casually, since I'd not planned to take the plunge just yet.  I've listened casually to their entire current lineup, and they sound superb, top to bottom.  Since I'm new to this, I wanted to spend more time listening and learning, but the deep commitment I sense from STAX loyalists on this thread and elsewhere, I find myself drawn to STAX more and more.  They have some nice packages, basically for around US$500, US$1,000, and up.  The basic system is about $US500, and includes the 207 paired with 252S, it also has an AC adaptor, as you noted, which would relieve me of the anxiety of frying the driver once in the US.  I'll go an relisten to this system, and maybe start there.  I'll let you know, and thanks so much.  Feeling much more focused.

post #21055 of 24765
Quote:
Originally Posted by ALSO View Post

Michgelsen,

 

Your responses are invaluable, thank you.  I've listened to the STAX lineup several times since coming to Tokyo, but only ever casually, since I'd not planned to take the plunge just yet.  I've listened casually to their entire current lineup, and they sound superb, top to bottom.  Since I'm new to this, I wanted to spend more time listening and learning, but the deep commitment I sense from STAX loyalists on this thread and elsewhere, I find myself drawn to STAX more and more.  They have some nice packages, basically for around US$500, US$1,000, and up.  The basic system is about $US500, and includes the 207 paired with 252S, it also has an AC adaptor, as you noted, which would relieve me of the anxiety of frying the driver once in the US.  I'll go an relisten to this system, and maybe start there.  I'll let you know, and thanks so much.  Feeling much more focused.

 

If you don't fear buying used (and you are lucky) you can get an SRM-T1 plus SR-Lambda for not much more. It will sound a lot better than the Basic setup.

In fact I have tried almost all of the new and old Lambdas and none of the others seem to match it for the purity of the midrange, they sound a bit artificial in comparison (especially the 507).

 

Also since you are currently in Japan you can order new earpads cheaply (which the headphones will probably need) and after that they will be ok for many years to come.

 

Yes you might need the amp to be re-wired later on, but it is not such a big deal.

post #21056 of 24765
Quote:
Originally Posted by padam View Post

 

If you don't fear buying used (and you are lucky) you can get an SRM-T1 plus SR-Lambda for not much more. It will sound a lot better than the Basic setup.

In fact I have tried almost all of the new and old Lambdas and none of the others seem to match it for the purity of the midrange, they sound a bit artificial in comparison (especially the 507).

 

Also since you are currently in Japan you can order new earpads cheaply (which the headphones will probably need) and after that they will be ok for many years to come.

 

Yes you might need the amp to be re-wired later on, but it is not such a big deal.

Thanks for this suggestion--do you think I'd be able to listen to these somewhere?  The places I visit in Tokyo have the latest, but not much from the past.

post #21057 of 24765
Quote:
Originally Posted by ALSO View Post

Thanks for this suggestion--do you think I'd be able to listen to these somewhere?  The places I visit in Tokyo have the latest, but not much from the past.

 

I guess not. Unless you find a generous local head-fi-er who you can organize a micro-meet with, you will need to rely on written impressions.

But if you search for opinions about the SR-Lambda you will struggle to find much negative about it. Except that it is quite rare even though it was made in large quantities for many years.

Sure it does not have as deep bass as the new ones but as I said, the midrange is just stunning.

At some point I will try to summarize it in a review.


I think micro-meetings are actually much more useful because you are not nearly as distracted compared to a big headphone meet with lots of noise etc. so these impressions need to be taken with caution (imho)

You really need to listen at a quiet environment to appreciate all the differences.

 

And I would also like to add that a good source is important if I didn't have the Lavry I might not appreciate Staxes as much as I do now.

Good DAC + cheap vintage Stax = win


Edited by padam - 2/20/13 at 4:35am
post #21058 of 24765
Quote:
Originally Posted by padam View Post

 

I guess not. Unless you find a generous local head-fi-er who you can organize a micro-meet with, you will need to rely on written impressions.

But if you search for opinions about the SR-Lambda you will struggle to find much negative about it. Except that it is quite rare even though it was made in large quantities for many years.

Sure it does not have as deep bass as the new ones but as I said, the midrange is just stunning.

At some point I will try to summarize it in a review.


I think micro-meetings are actually much more useful because you are not nearly as distracted compared to a big headphone meet with lots of noise etc. so these impressions need to be taken with caution (imho)

You really need to listen at a quiet environment to appreciate all the differences.

 

And I would also like to add that a good source is important if I didn't have the Lavry I might not appreciate Staxes as much as I do now.

Good DAC + cheap vintage Stax = win

Thank you Padam, for adding these thoughts.  I will try to seek some audiophiles in Tokyo--they are all over the place, in fact, and some among my friends who jump on the topic if I bring it up.  If I do go with one of the newer packages (I am eager to spend some time with something STAX), do you recommend a particular DAC for this, since I'll be listening primarily from a MBP (2012) as my main source?

post #21059 of 24765

ALSO,

 

I'd recommend to check Audio Union. I bought my "vintage" Omega 2mk1 from there last year and the price was good. / condition pristine (new pads, new headband). As a matter of fact, they have a used T1 in one of the "Tokyo" shops which goes for under 35,000JPY atm. No Lambda though, so it would be air Stax for a while :). 

 

Other than that there are a few of us here in Tokyo with Stax rigs so you'd be welcome to join a spring meet for a listen!

 

arnaud

 

 

PS: at least 4 among us in JP are using mbp and other mba to drive usb dacs feeding stat rigs, so you'd probably be able to compare a few dacs too at full rig meet. I guess we only need to resume the planning ;)


Edited by arnaud - 2/20/13 at 4:50am
post #21060 of 24765
Quote:
Originally Posted by arnaud View Post

ALSO,

 

I'd recommend to check Audio Union. I bought my "vintage" Omega 2mk1 from there last year and the price was good. / condition pristine (new pads, new headband). As a matter of fact, they have a used T1 in one of the "Tokyo" shops which goes for under 35,000JPY atm. No Lambda though, so it would be air Stax for a while :). 

 

Other than that there are a few of us here in Tokyo with Stax rigs so you'd be welcome to join a spring meet for a listen!

 

arnaud

Thanks so much Arnaud, I'm not far from Ochanomizu, so I'll go see what's at Audio Union, and a spring meet in Tokyo would be great, thanks! 

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