Any particular reason the answer needs to come from Iceland? Anyone here could give you a resounding "yes"...
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The Stax thread (New) - Page 1379post #20671 of 247651/16/13 at 3:41pm
Gear mentioned in this thread:post #20672 of 247651/16/13 at 3:43pmpost #20673 of 247651/17/13 at 12:07amQuote:Originally Posted by shipsupt
I doubt its overheating, unless it's dirty inside... I'll be opening it up when I have a few minutes to check that. It's cool here in the UK as is the listening room. Plenty of ventilation around the unit.
The voltage question is interesting... It is set for 220V. When I checked my line yesterday it was just over 230V. Tonight (late) I checked it and it was dancing between 238 and 240V. Interesting stuff. I will change the voltage setting after opening and cleaning.
Thanks all for the suggestions. I will keep you posted if you're really bored and interested.
Yes, keep us posted please.post #20674 of 247651/17/13 at 3:57amHi guys,
If you had to get Stax electronics, what would be the best current production amp that is value for the money?
I have just auditioned a 323 and a 006 via 407.
Might be considering the 507 and the 009 and a 323.
I like the 323 but that sounded compressed. The 006 with tubes were too warm and the bass hollowed out as volume increase. I have a SRM 1 MK2 driving lambda pros, do you think the SRM 1 is capable of driving the 009?
The reason I'm asking is that being down under there is almost no retailer has this stuff to audition, especially some of the higher acclaimed amps that are mentioned on this thread.post #20675 of 247651/17/13 at 5:59ampost #20676 of 247651/17/13 at 10:59amQuote:Originally Posted by DefQon
Just a question (for spritzer), would http://www.electromod.co.uk/product-detail.asp?P=1 these be suitable for recabling the Lambda Pro's? Both are pro-bias.
I was quite interested by this site because there's lots of Stax spare parts listed in £s for the UK market, including Mk2 Brown replacement pads for SR-007. Which seems to answer an old question whether it's possible to get Mk2 pads in brown. Shame then that the actual description of those pads is completely wrong. Looks like a bad case of cut n paste error...post #20677 of 247651/17/13 at 11:59am
In my part of the globe, apart from Woo audio, and the dealer doesnt even have the WES in stock. They wont have the 009 or the 007 as these are way too expensive to hold! You need to order one! And Im not a fan of buying stuff I cant audition. The only electrstatic drivers are Stax drivers, the 323 and 006 are the only ones I have heard. Its a huge outlay for the ones that are highly praised on this thread.post #20678 of 247651/17/13 at 1:10pm
Can anyone give a comparison between Beyer T1 and the SR 009? I've been trying to find a comparison of someone that heard both on head fi for a while but nothing really came up. Only the big flagship comparision thread has anything like that.post #20679 of 247651/17/13 at 1:19pmpost #20680 of 247651/17/13 at 1:29pmpost #20681 of 247651/17/13 at 1:50pm
^ Probably true. I was just curious since there are quite a few HD800 vs SR009 comparision I read but nothing about the T1 at all. My impression is that the T1 was on the same plane of existence as the HD800, at least in a review.post #20682 of 247651/17/13 at 2:01pmOk, the inside of the amp was clean, no signs of issues. I switched the voltage to 230v. Fired up and had the cut out in no time.
I swapped the source and it's been happily playing for over an hour now. So what does this mean about my source? It's a brand new NAD M51. It plays nicely with every other amp I connect it to. Would trying it connected unbalanced have any effect? Am I just not able to use it with the 717 or is there something on the DAC output that can be checked, or the sensitivity of the DC input protection on the 717?
Thanks. Good to make some progress.Quote:Quote:Quote:Originally Posted by Michgelsen
My 717 has cut sound two times on very hot summer days, due to overheating. When the amp cools down, it should work again.
On two or three other occasions, inserting the plug from the headphones while the amp was on caused the amp to go into this 'protection mode'. Switching off the amp and disconnecting power for a few seconds, then switching it back on made it work again. This is very rare though. Normally when I disconnect or connect headphones while the amp is on, nothing happens.
I have read reports of 717s overheating due to being configured for the wrong voltage. For example the amp could be set for 220 volt when the line voltage is actually 230 volt, in which case it's better to set the amp for 240 volt operation.
Can any of these points be the source of your problem?post #20683 of 247651/17/13 at 2:45pmQuote:
Well it's German, but that's about where the similarities end. If you don't have an opportunity to try out a 1k+ headphone before you buy it I wouldn't chance going by any one HF review.post #20684 of 247651/17/13 at 2:47pmQuote:
More neutral than the T1...and then imagine every good part of the T1 but better.
Kind of a similar comparison to the HD800 but I consider the HD800 closer to neutral than the T1.
Since I heard it I've called it 'like an HD800 but better in every single way'.post #20685 of 247651/17/13 at 2:54pm
@anetode: Sorry didn't mean to give the impression that I didn't try anything at that level. I did have the T1 for a while and am planning on getting the 009 next.
@Morbid: Sounds good. I like how the T1 sounds but wish it was more transparent. Better everything is great, now if only it was better price...
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