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post #20386 of 24765

Hello Everyone!

 

New to this thread.  I have a pair of 207's and want to upgrade to the 407 or 507.  I am having a very hard time finding out where to buy these things.  I tried via Amazon and after 30 days they said they had to cancel the order because they hadn't heard from the seller, who I presume is in Japan.  The USA dealer seems to seller the 407 for $580 but there are none in stock.  A dealer in Another dealer in the USA has the 507 in stock for $1095.  A dealer in Germany lists the 407 but for about $980!  Any suggestions good people?

post #20387 of 24765
Birgir, it's interesting that while you are are typically extremely severe with any amplification that deviates from wire with gain, you blame the 009 for having higher objective performance than the omega 2. I could not word it better than tonereef on the subjective side but the SR-009 is clearly a better performer than the omega on a technical standpoint.

Tyll uses a somewhat different target curve for subjective reasons, but if you use a diffuse field target (which most headphone makers use as reference afaik), the sr009 is pretty darn flat. While there are all sort of theories about driver proximity, need to attenuate the highs for lack of distance, there is no question that a flat measured response on a given dummy means a tonally neutral transducer for that set of speaker headings you used as reference. You get perceived differences when it's your own pinna and may have personal preference for emphasized bass to compensate for lack of chest impact but that is totally subjective.
post #20388 of 24765

Forgot to ask a related question.  I have read that there is not much difference between the 407 and 507, certainly not enough to justify the major difference in price.  I would be interested in thoughts on this.

post #20389 of 24765
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kiritz View Post

Hello Everyone!

 

New to this thread.  I have a pair of 207's and want to upgrade to the 407 or 507.  I am having a very hard time finding out where to buy these things.  I tried via Amazon and after 30 days they said they had to cancel the order because they hadn't heard from the seller, who I presume is in Japan.  The USA dealer seems to seller the 407 for $580 but there are none in stock.  A dealer in Another dealer in the USA has the 507 in stock for $1095.  A dealer in Germany lists the 407 but for about $980!  Any suggestions good people?

 

Why not have a look on pricejapan.com 

post #20390 of 24765

These are illustrations of what I meant with "measuring flat" when assuming a diffuse field target. In the graphs below, black it Tyll's raw data (4-5 positions average), red color is the equalization Tyll currently uses (ID for Independent of Direction, which is not quite diffuse but not free field either), blue is using the diffuse field target (labeled as 'DF').

 

I start with the HD800, then LCD2r2 and SR009 last (sorry, haven't done the Omega 2 yet):

 

10001000

 

10001000

 

10001000

post #20391 of 24765

That's a bass response I've not seen before on the HD800 or LCD-2. And the midrange too, DF or otherwise. Just so we're all clear on this, do we still assume the -10db slope on the compensated graph?


Edited by briskly - 12/19/12 at 5:56pm
post #20392 of 24765
Quick thoughts since I'm typing on my iPhone: I'm with Arnaud on the 009s just letting through what is upstream. I thought I was hearing some harshness in the treble, but in one case it was an issue with my digital rig. The second time it was the ICs I was using which have a reputation for being too aggressive.

To some degree I reckon it is similar to what happened with the HD800s when people started using them and started hearing too much.
post #20393 of 24765
Quote:
Originally Posted by shipsupt View Post

Gents, I am seeking some confirmation and few answers...

 

It appears (and sounds) like the left driver in my Lambda Nova Signatures has dropped out of place.  I plan to open them up move the driver home.

 

  • My understanding is the ear pads are simply stuck on with double sided tape and will need to be removed by peeling them free in order to reach the screws that need to be removed so I can access the inside of the cages and the drivers.  Is this about right?
  • Anything else to check out or do while I am in there?  Anything to be careful of?
  • Once I remove the ear pads I'm going to guess that the double sided tape is going to be done and will need to be replaced.  I'm also under the understanding that the ear pads are original (perhaps n3rdling can confirm, I got these form him) so it may be a good time to replace them.  My reading indicates I won't get exact replacements as they are no longer available, so any recommendations for which of the other Lambda pads to use for replacement?
  • The drivers are held in place with double sided tape?  So far the only source I've found for the pre cut tape is together with replacement drivers.  I'm planning to layout and cut some on my own.  Any tips advise on this process?

 

I'm feeling pretty comfortable with this from what I dug up in this and other threads, but since this is the first Lambda I'm opening up I wanted to check in.

 

BTW, rocking the good old SR-202 tonight which have been a bit neglected as of late... they never really disappoint.  

 

Thanks,
shipsupt

 

Sorry to hear that :(  You might not need to take the pads all the way off - I think if you lift up each corner you can access the screws holding the ear assemblies together.  The pads are very likely the originals but I can't say for sure as I wasn't the original owner. 

post #20394 of 24765

Can anyone help? Does anyone know what is the exact type of the potentiometer used on SRM-X Pro or its specifications to be able to exchange it to a brand new? Thanks
 

post #20395 of 24765
Quote:
Originally Posted by arnaud View Post

Birgir, it's interesting that while you are are typically extremely severe with any amplification that deviates from wire with gain, you blame the 009 for having higher objective performance than the omega 2. I could not word it better than tonereef on the subjective side but the SR-009 is clearly a better performer than the omega on a technical standpoint.
Tyll uses a somewhat different target curve for subjective reasons, but if you use a diffuse field target (which most headphone makers use as reference afaik), the sr009 is pretty darn flat. While there are all sort of theories about driver proximity, need to attenuate the highs for lack of distance, there is no question that a flat measured response on a given dummy means a tonally neutral transducer for that set of speaker headings you used as reference. You get perceived differences when it's your own pinna and may have personal preference for emphasized bass to compensate for lack of chest impact but that is totally subjective.

 

I have the same standard for amps and transducers, the SR-009 have a definitive "sound" which is which is always there.  All of the great Stax models may have limitations but they are all fundamentally neutral and the SR-009 is certainly not that. 

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by n3rdling View Post

 

Sorry to hear that :(  You might not need to take the pads all the way off - I think if you lift up each corner you can access the screws holding the ear assemblies together.  The pads are very likely the originals but I can't say for sure as I wasn't the original owner. 

 

You do indeed lift up each of the 4 corners about 10mm to reveal the screws, no need to mess any more with the pads than that.  To reattach the drivers any strong double sided tape will work.   I've tired pretty much everything I could get my hands on and I've had good results with carpet tape that leaves no residue.  No rough handling on the drivers (they might split open) and it should go well. 

post #20396 of 24765
Quote:
Originally Posted by spritzer View Post

 

... the SR-009 have a definitive "sound" which is which is always there.  All of the great Stax models may have limitations but they are all fundamentally neutral and the SR-009 is certainly not that. 

 

 

The way I see it is that the one with the definite sound that is inescapable, even with a T2, is the 007.  It sounds slow and muddy to me compared to the 009, thinking of selling them since I never use them.  The 009 is a window to the recording, while the 007 is a window with a thick screen. 

post #20397 of 24765

There is a thick screen on the 007 - the overly thick grill cloth.  Try removing it and replacing with legging material or just removing it altogether.  It really opens it up.

post #20398 of 24765

Hey guys, I have a question. Eventually I would like to get some stax lambdas down the road. I am currently working with another member making a DIY tube headphone amp. I was wondering if the amp were balanced and had the XLR jack for the headphones, would it work for stax headphones. Or is a stax amp something that is just so different that I would be better off getting a stax amp when that time comes? 

post #20399 of 24765
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tjj226 Angel View Post

Hey guys, I have a question. Eventually I would like to get some stax lambdas down the road. I am currently working with another member making a DIY tube headphone amp. I was wondering if the amp were balanced and had the XLR jack for the headphones, would it work for stax headphones. Or is a stax amp something that is just so different that I would be better off getting a stax amp when that time comes? 

You can only use electrostatic amplifiers with Stax. So you would not be better off getting a Stax amp, you HAVE TO get an amp that is designed to drive electrostatics. 

post #20400 of 24765
Quote:
Originally Posted by Yuceka View Post

You can only use electrostatic amplifiers with Stax. So you would not be better off getting a Stax amp, you HAVE TO get an amp that is designed to drive electrostatics. 

Thanks for the reply! It was sad, but quick : )

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