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post #20161 of 24765
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tubebabe View Post

I'm not feeling the love... :-)   

Seriously, is there anyone here familiar with SR-3's or did I make a mistake buying too old?  I'm "vintage" myself so I like my equipment to come from the same era.

Is this a known problem with one earspeaker fading out each time it is used?

 

Thanks.

I would suspect that the bias board inside the SRD-5 energizer box has some faulty components

that cause the problem you describe. If possible, I would test your SR-3 cans on another suitable

amp or energizer box to verify if they are ok. DO NOT open the energizer box unless you are well versed

on working with high voltage. The SRD-5 can hold a deadly charge inside even when it is turned off and unplugged.

 

Most people "in the know" have these old (~20 to ~50 y/o) systems serviced - that is, updated with new components,

electrolytic capacitors, diodes and possibly resistors before placing them into service again.

 

Here are some links that may be of some interest:  

 

http://kenrockwell.com/audio/stax/srd-5.htm  

 

http://kenrockwell.com/audio/stax/new-sr-3.htm


Edited by livewire - 11/25/12 at 11:36am
post #20162 of 24765
Looking for some STAX amping advice. I'm contemplating getting SR-009s or 007s. I've heard the 007s with a 007tII and enjoyed it very much.

I'm thinking about my amping options. Obviously I can go for the STAX 727 or 007tII. I'm also thinking about the Woo GES (the WES is out of my range frown.gif). Another option is to power them through the Woo WEE using my Jolida tube amp.

What do you think is the best amping choice for ~$2500? I'd prefer to go new, but I won't discount used amps if the performance is that much better.
Edited by agentsim - 11/25/12 at 12:45pm
post #20163 of 24765

Sorry for being a little off topic but I have to share this.

 

After a couple of decades listening to Layla from Derek and the Dominos as one of my favorite songs for zilions of times... I'm hearing the main riff in a way I've never heard before, with a third guitar "voice" standing out as clear as crystal. It just wasn't there before, not like this.

 

That's what the 009 does with the songs you think you know the most.

 

I'm almost speechless.

post #20164 of 24765

Probably a large diversion to what is usually discussed in this thread, but I've recently gotten into some money, not an exceedingly large amount, but enough that I feel some could go towards luxuries, I'm currently using what I'd consider to be 'mid-fi', divulging on 'high-fi' having heard 'high-fi' and having it not sound as good as I was expecting, just different, my current situation is the EHP-O2 and a pair of heavily modfied T50RPs with its own little Stax.

 

I've been thinking  about jumping for the SR-007 Mk2, skipping the high-end planar magnetics and dynamics (dynamic being the T1 and HD800, and neither of the designs or aesthetics grabbed me, I found the HD800 to sound dull on audition and actually preferred my current planar magnetic) and going right to the big-boys equipment, I don't think I'm in the right mindset to go right for STAX and feel as if I'm skipping some experience, but if it saves me money in the long run I suppose I'm all for it.

 

The SR-007 Mk2, not being overly expensive (as in, it isn't $5,000!) sits at a price I would say is a bloody lot for a headphone, but not so much that I it's off-putting, even for a student as myself, would the SR-007 Mk2 and an amplifier around the $1,000-$1,500 range (currently looking at the WooAudio GES, but I'd love some suggestions as I know absolutely nothing about electrostatic at this point in time) be an end-game as owned by itself? I've heard some say that electrostatics are fantastic to have, but couldn't imagine owning an electrostatic by itself. For $4-5,000 all in with shipping/customs to England I wouldn't want to feel let down, and it's a difficult question to answer and I understand that, is it a realistic end-game (famous last words?) or should I make my way up slower, to avoid disappointment?


Edited by eltocliousus - 11/26/12 at 2:39pm
post #20165 of 24765
Quote:
Originally Posted by madbull View Post

Sorry for being a little off topic but I have to share this.

After a couple of decades listening to Layla from Derek and the Dominos as one of my favorite songs for zilions of times... I'm hearing the main riff in a way I've never heard before, with a third guitar "voice" standing out as clear as crystal. It just wasn't there before, not like this.

That's what the 009 does with the songs you think you know the most.

I'm almost speechless.

Funny, first time i heard my 009 with group yello song : tracklessdeep. About 0:10 there were a vocie that came out clearer then never before. 009 makes microdetails more obvious =)
Edited by t-h-e-p-i-m-p - 11/26/12 at 3:13pm
post #20166 of 24765
Quote:
Originally Posted by eltocliousus View Post

 

The SR-007 Mk2, not being overly expensive (as in, it isn't $5,000!) sits at a price I would say is a bloody lot for a headphone, but not so much that I it's off-putting, even for a student as myself, would the SR-007 Mk2 and an amplifier around the $1,000-$1,500 range (currently looking at the WooAudio GES, but I'd love some suggestions as I know absolutely nothing about electrostatic at this point in time) be an end-game as owned by itself? I've heard some say that electrostatics are fantastic to have, but couldn't imagine owning an electrostatic by itself. For $4-5,000 all in with shipping/customs to England I wouldn't want to feel let down, and it's a difficult question to answer and I understand that, is it a realistic end-game (famous last words?) or should I make my way up slower, to avoid disappointment?

 

I don't have as much experience with stats as some other members here but I did listen to the SR-007 (it was a Mk1) on both the GES (stock, no upgrades) and the 323S. I thought it was a bit better on the 323. There was a bit less romantic bloom with the lower mids but the bass hit harder on the 323S.

 

So if you're looking to stay under 4 grand for the amp and headphone, keep the 323S in mind. it's quite good

 

Oh, and don't forget to get a solid, good quality DAC to feed the amp. this might add another ~$500 to $1K easily

post #20167 of 24765

I'll definitely keep the 323S bookmarked, it would be great to keep it all STAX other then the DAC, I've never been a big fan of the very large WooAudios and their tubes, thankyou!

post #20168 of 24765
Quote:
Originally Posted by eltocliousus View Post

I'll definitely keep the 323S bookmarked, it would be great to keep it all STAX other then the DAC, I've never been a big fan of the very large WooAudios and their tubes, thankyou!

 

I'd recommend to explore other headphones before jumping with the higher end Stax gear because you don't know if you're going to like it. It is a bit of an acquired taste compared to something like the Audeze which is much more attractive at first. It took me close to 10 years to understand what Stax was about and I would say that a big part of the issue for not getting it till then was the music I was listening too and source (you can't just buy the phone / stax driver and call it a day).

 

Totally unrelated: stax interview is set for 12/12/12, welcoming questions from all until tomorrow: http://www.head-fi.org/t/634106/stax-factory-tour-and-interview-in-japan-approved-during-my-trip-to-tokyo-japan-december-6th-to-december-13th-2012/30#post_8899701

post #20169 of 24765
Quote:
Originally Posted by arnaud View Post

 

I'd recommend to explore other headphones before jumping with the higher end Stax gear because you don't know if you're going to like it. It is a bit of an acquired taste compared to something like the Audeze which is much more attractive at first. It took me close to 10 years to understand what Stax was about and I would say that a big part of the issue for not getting it till then was the music I was listening too and source (you can't just buy the phone / stax driver and call it a day).

 

Totally unrelated: stax interview is set for 12/12/12, welcoming questions from all until tomorrow: http://www.head-fi.org/t/634106/stax-factory-tour-and-interview-in-japan-approved-during-my-trip-to-tokyo-japan-december-6th-to-december-13th-2012/30#post_8899701

 

What would you recommend as a path? The problem I have is, I don't want to work my way up, spending a few thousand on other planars and dynamics, then finally on Stax, when I can skip all that money toting and go bam, straight to the Stax, where I'll definitely end up being at some point simply due to curiosity. My music preferences are vocal, acoustic, jazz, some classical, and electronic, I'm a lover of vocals, the realistic the better, nothing can sink me into a song as much as lush, airy, beautiful vocals. I enjoy imaging, detail/transparency.


Edited by eltocliousus - 11/26/12 at 5:24pm
post #20170 of 24765
Quote:
Originally Posted by livewire View Post

I would suspect that the bias board inside the SRD-5 energizer box has some faulty components

that cause the problem you describe. If possible, I would test your SR-3 cans on another suitable

amp or energizer box to verify if they are ok. DO NOT open the energizer box unless you are well versed

on working with high voltage. The SRD-5 can hold a deadly charge inside even when it is turned off and unplugged.

 

Most people "in the know" have these old (~20 to ~50 y/o) systems serviced - that is, updated with new components,

electrolytic capacitors, diodes and possibly resistors before placing them into service again.

 

Here are some links that may be of some interest:  

 

http://kenrockwell.com/audio/stax/srd-5.htm  

 

http://kenrockwell.com/audio/stax/new-sr-3.htm

Thanks a lot for the advice livewire.  In fact I was in the process of doing that already and just got an SRD-6 delivered today.

 

Unfortunately the problem continues with the SRD-6 so now I know it is a problem with the SR-3 headphones.  For the engineering and scientifically inclined folks out there, here are the new data points:

 

The SRD-6 running the SR-3's has exactly the same problem BUT it happens at a slower rate.  It takes about 3 songs before my balance control needs to swing all the way over to the left side in an attempt to stay balanced.  Most of the first song listened to sounds great and I though the problem was resolved after changing from the SRD-5.  However, it became apparent that the fading out is still the same but just slower with the passive SRD-6 than the electrically biased SRD-5.

 

Turning off the power amp and then trying again in 10-15 minutes shows the SR-3 to have regained about 1/2 of the loss but not yet balanced (about 9 o'clock on the balance control instead of the < 7 o'clock where it was pinned to earlier).

 

Thanks for the links to Ken Rockwell's site, I had already read all I could there but other folks with vintage Stax will find good reviews there.

 

So, the bottom line seems to be the SR-3's need repairing.  What do I do now?

post #20171 of 24765
Quote:
Originally Posted by eltocliousus View Post

 

What would you recommend as a path? The problem I have is, I don't want to work my way up, spending a few thousand on other planars and dynamics, then finally on Stax, when I can skip all that money toting and go bam, straight to the Stax, where I'll definitely end up being at some point simply due to curiosity. My music preferences are vocal, acoustic, jazz, some classical, and electronic, I'm a lover of vocals, the realistic the better, nothing can sink me into a song as much as lush, airy, beautiful vocals. I enjoy imaging, detail/transparency.

 

I personally think that the 407 and 323s will give you a pretty good idea about what stax can do for you, and it's also much better value for money than any of the other current models. If you get these used you won't lose more than shipping if you decide they are not for you. I've had both the 407 and the SR-007 and I don't think the difference is that great. (many will disagree, of course) but the 407 will give you that very specific "stax" sound quality and crispness.

 

If you are considering the "big boys" in the stax lineup make an effort to try them first. You live in the UK, surely there will be a shop or a stax mafia member who will let you try the kit out. Again, many here have bought the high end stax models without trying, and the vast majority have not been disappointed.

post #20172 of 24765
Quote:
Originally Posted by madbull View Post

Sorry for being a little off topic but I have to share this.

 

After a couple of decades listening to Layla from Derek and the Dominos as one of my favorite songs for zilions of times... I'm hearing the main riff in a way I've never heard before, with a third guitar "voice" standing out as clear as crystal. It just wasn't there before, not like this.

 

That's what the 009 does with the songs you think you know the most.

 

I'm almost speechless.

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by t-h-e-p-i-m-p View Post


Funny, first time i heard my 009 with group yello song : tracklessdeep. About 0:10 there were a vocie that came out clearer then never before. 009 makes microdetails more obvious =)

 

Yep...Mirrors my experiences too. I'm hearing things with my SR-009s that my GS-X/HD800s somehow managed to miss on some of my favourite recordings. blink.gif

post #20173 of 24765
Quote:Originally Posted by Tubebabe View Post

So, the bottom line seems to be the SR-3's need repairing.  What do I do now?

 

------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

 

I don't know of anyone who repairs these. Parts are beyond obsolete.

 

You could -

 

- Try and re-sell them as damaged goods, prolly at a loss if anyone would touch them. 

 

- Take a chance on another used SR-3 when one comes around. 

 

- Buy newer Staxen that have repair support. 

 

Got DIY skilz? Tear them apart yourself and attempt a repair.

Most likely there is a series bias resistor inside connected to the diaphram terminal.

I've seen pics where the connections are seriously corroded and need to be reconstructed.

Or, the old resistor's value may have changed over time causing a severe reduction of bias charge.

Many damaged components exhibit failure during warm-up.

 

As for doing anything else such as messing with the electrode stack, few have gone there.

It is do-able if one is willing to try.

There are threads dedicated to building your own electrostat headphones.

The resident guru is Chinasettawong (sp?)

 

Maybe Spritzer will chime in.

He has owned the SR-3 and just about every other Stax in existence, as well as torn them all apart.

If anyone would know something, he would.


Edited by livewire - 11/26/12 at 11:52pm
post #20174 of 24765
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tubebabe View Post

Thanks a lot for the advice livewire.  In fact I was in the process of doing that already and just got an SRD-6 delivered today.

 

Unfortunately the problem continues with the SRD-6 so now I know it is a problem with the SR-3 headphones.  For the engineering and scientifically inclined folks out there, here are the new data points:

 

The SRD-6 running the SR-3's has exactly the same problem BUT it happens at a slower rate.  It takes about 3 songs before my balance control needs to swing all the way over to the left side in an attempt to stay balanced.  Most of the first song listened to sounds great and I though the problem was resolved after changing from the SRD-5.  However, it became apparent that the fading out is still the same but just slower with the passive SRD-6 than the electrically biased SRD-5.

 

Turning off the power amp and then trying again in 10-15 minutes shows the SR-3 to have regained about 1/2 of the loss but not yet balanced (about 9 o'clock on the balance control instead of the < 7 o'clock where it was pinned to earlier).

 

Thanks for the links to Ken Rockwell's site, I had already read all I could there but other folks with vintage Stax will find good reviews there.

 

So, the bottom line seems to be the SR-3's need repairing.  What do I do now?

My SRD 3n/5n had an imbalance.  If the SR3 are similar, the electrodes are not soldered onto the leads inside the headset but crimped, and can be pulled loose through the cord.  I fixed mine by opening the headset with jewelers screwdrivers and re-crimping the leads.  Be sure to remember the position and sequence of assembly.

post #20175 of 24765

The coating on the diaphragm is probably shot due to age and not much you can do about that except recoat it if you are up for that. 

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