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post #20101 of 24765

Not sure about the headband, but I've found the mk2 earpads on the mk1 absolutely do no harm and may help slightly because they seal a bit better/more easily for me.

post #20102 of 24765

Are the MKII pads more firmer (harder on the face?) and roomier than the MK1's? Judging by just the pictures that's how it seems like it would be, but just wondering. My MK1 pads are in great condition with no fit issues, but just for future reference.

post #20103 of 24765

on the contrary, the mk2 pads are softer, since they arent made of plastic like the mk1 pads

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by K_19 View Post

Are the MKII pads more firmer (harder on the face?) and roomier than the MK1's? Judging by just the pictures that's how it seems like it would be, but just wondering. My MK1 pads are in great condition with no fit issues, but just for future reference.

post #20104 of 24765
Quote:
What I'm not happy about are the headpad and earpads.  If I replace them with the MK2 headpad and earpads, will it compromise the sound?

I believe spritzer suggested that the mkII pads are indeed better .

post #20105 of 24765
Quote:
Originally Posted by moti View Post

 

Hi,

this is my first post to head-fi.org. I purchaced 100V SRM-006tA and would like to modify it 240V version, like plinden did above in his excellent post. I already have soldered blue and orange wires to transformer, but it is not clear for me what to do next. I found the following instructions:

 

You need to put a jumper wire between different colors where the + sign is. There are always two different connection per voltage with either two or three different colors.

240v configuration

Gray + Purple
AC power in + Blue

220v configuration

AC power in + Blue
Green + Gray

117v configuration

Blue + Purple + AC power in
White + Gray

100v configuration

AC power in + brown + green
Gray + White

 

Questions:

1. There are no purple wire, is the orange wire -> purple

2. To where to the board or wires should I connect blue and orange wires

3. Should I remove or disconnect any 100V configuration transformer wires

4. Do I need to solder anything to the main board

5. The main fuse is 125V/1,5A. What is the correct value for 240V configuration

 

This amp has the voltage selection on the main PCB so don't mess with the wires.  Orange is indeed purple (or rather should be purple) so solder it to the right hole on the PCB, ditto for the blue wire.  Now look at the 1-6 numbers on the PCB, these are the voltage selection with jumpers underneath the PCB.  For 100V 1,3,6 are populated but you need 2,5 for 240V. 

 

1AT/250V fuse will work just fine. 

post #20106 of 24765
Quote:
Originally Posted by spritzer View Post

 

This amp has the voltage selection on the main PCB so don't mess with the wires.  Orange is indeed purple (or rather should be purple) so solder it to the right hole on the PCB, ditto for the blue wire.  Now look at the 1-6 numbers on the PCB, these are the voltage selection with jumpers underneath the PCB.  For 100V 1,3,6 are populated but you need 2,5 for 240V. 

 

1AT/250V fuse will work just fine. 


Thanks spritzer. Should I remove the 1,3 ja 6 jumpers before adding jumpers to 2 and 5 numbers?

post #20107 of 24765

Yes, otherwise the amp will do some very strange things. 

post #20108 of 24765
Quote:
Originally Posted by spritzer View Post

The 007 drivers are pretty hard to clean of debris so I would just live with it.  I tried to clean a set yesterday and it got better but not perfect. 

 

What I would do is to check the dust covers for holes.  They are very fragile so don't touch them but any holes can be patched with clear tape. 

Thanks for the advice everyone - living with it sounds like the best option. I wasn't going to do anything crazy (like using a vacuum) - but I tried playing them at a louder volume for a few minutes and for now the squeal has gone away - if it was dust, perhaps it has dropped off the drivers.

post #20109 of 24765

hey all, quick question about the srm1-mk2.  I was looking at the instructions on wikiphonia.  is it true that on the back of the unit, there is one input, and one output?  I thought they were both inputs.  they are not labeled in any way except L and R.

post #20110 of 24765
Stax normally configures the outer (closer to the edge) RCA as the input and the inner for parallel/loop out. Just them out, won't do any harm.
post #20111 of 24765
Quote:
Originally Posted by Amarphael View Post

Stax normally configures the outer (closer to the edge) RCA as the input and the inner for parallel/loop out.  Just them out, won't do any harm.

Ok, so only one input then?  I could have sworn I used the inner RCA as an in a while ago.  I dont think I understand what "parallel/loop out" means.

post #20112 of 24765
Quote:
Originally Posted by Keithpgdrb View Post

Ok, so only one input then?  I could have sworn I used the inner RCA as an in a while ago.  I dont think I understand what "parallel/loop out" means.

 

 

parallel/loop out

 

This means that the  2 RCA jacks are connected together.  The 2 LEFT jacks are connected together (they are in PARALLEL) and the 2 RIGHT jacks are also.  That means if you plug a cable from your DAC or phono preamp or whatever source into one jack, the signal appears on the other. The jacks are the same. The idea behind this:  you can connect your CD player to your SRM-1 Mk 2 and then use an RCS cable to connect the other jack on the SRM-1 MK 2 to feed that signal to your receiver for your speaker setup.  Those jacks are there to help you integrate the SRM-1 into your audio system.

 

Here's a schematic of how those jacks are wired.  You can see they are just wired together.  This allows the signal to "pass through" so to speak, so that you can arrange to feed the signal to your SRM-1 and also to another component, like your speaker rig.  Or, in my case, I fed an SRM-T1  and then it was easy to compare the sound of the two amps, just had to move the headphones back and forth between the two.

 

So it doesn't matter which one you connect your signal to.

 

 

1000


Edited by milosz - 11/19/12 at 2:14am
post #20113 of 24765
Couldn't ask for a clearer description. Thank you.
post #20114 of 24765

I'm looking to see if anyone would now if my SR-009 is having a critical issue. I'm hearing a faint static sound coming from the right driver. It happens when the amp is powered on with no source connected. The amp I'm running it through is a Woo Wes. The static sound appears on all input selections.
 

post #20115 of 24765
Quote:
Originally Posted by milosz View Post

 

 

parallel/loop out

 

This means that the  2 RCA jacks are connected together.  The 2 LEFT jacks are connected together (they are in PARALLEL) and the 2 RIGHT jacks are also.  That means if you plug a cable from your DAC or phono preamp or whatever source into one jack, the signal appears on the other. The jacks are the same. The idea behind this:  you can connect your CD player to your SRM-1 Mk 2 and then use an RCS cable to connect the other jack on the SRM-1 MK 2 to feed that signal to your receiver for your speaker setup.  Those jacks are there to help you integrate the SRM-1 into your audio system.

 

Here's a schematic of how those jacks are wired.  You can see they are just wired together.  This allows the signal to "pass through" so to speak, so that you can arrange to feed the signal to your SRM-1 and also to another component, like your speaker rig.  Or, in my case, I fed an SRM-T1  and then it was easy to compare the sound of the two amps, just had to move the headphones back and forth between the two.

 

So it doesn't matter which one you connect your signal to.

 

 

1000

 

A different question, but much earlier in this thread I think I read that using the loop out in Stax amps you have to turn on the other equipment or it changes the output impedence thus may change the sound... or something along those lines...  is this true? Perhaps it was just that particular amp or something... 006t I think it was.

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