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post #19636 of 24765
Quote:
Originally Posted by madbull View Post

Proud and happy new owner of a SR-Omega.biggrin.gif

Did you keep your 007mk2 as well? A bit piggy if you did bigsmile_face.gif

post #19637 of 24765
Quote:
Originally Posted by madbull View Post
Proud and happy new owner of a SR-Omega.biggrin.gif

 

Wow, you have one of those now? *reads sig* And a bunch of other sought-after cans like the Orpheus HE/90, at that!

 

Now I'm wondering which of your many headphones you use with the SU-DH1 I pointed you toward a while back...it obviously won't drive 'stats by itself, but you could just use the Dolby Headphone processing aspect of it and feed the output to an amp.

 

Back to the SR-Omega: how's the clamping force compared to the SR-007 (and the SR-009, if you own or have auditioned one before)? The headband/arc looks a lot like the one used for the vintage Lambdas and the Sigmas, which likely means lower clamping force and more comfort.

post #19638 of 24765

 

post #19639 of 24765

Omega feels like an old Lambda on the head.  

post #19640 of 24765

Yesterday I finally received the balanced XLR interconnects I had on order for my 4170 system (407/006t). I was not expecting much if any improvement over the rca connection. What I got was a major improvement across the board. Where I felt this was competitive with my Beyer T1 system before, now it totally blows away the T1. I got more transparency, better deeper and tighter bass and it tightened the image and filled the center focus. What an amazing system for such a modest investment. I do have one small complaint. There are three inputs selectable on the amp but the amp does not remember which has been selected when you turn it off and back on. I think it is a bit strange that they did not catch that in design. So I have to manually select the balanced input each time I turn on the amp. Not a big deal but I am surprised to see that they didn't have it automatically go to the last setting. The system sounds so good I can easily forgive this oversight. Anyone using this system run it through the balanced connection if you want to hear the true potential of the system.

post #19641 of 24765

The clamping force of the SR-Omega really depends on the age of the arc.  If it's the original part shipped with the phones in the 90's then it is very loose fitting but a NOS replacement has a much nicer fit.  As it turns out those heavy cups on a thin piece of plastic wasn't the best idea... 

 

While speaking of the SR-Omega, I should get my newest set tonight.  redface.gif

post #19642 of 24765

Hey Spritzer or Kevin, or whoever, looks like we misread at least a couple of the resistor values for the smr1-mk2 restore. No big deal. But here is a question. If the old resistor tests well, can I just reinstall it, or should I go ahead and order up the new to match the rest? I dont know how long these resistors are supposed to last. I assume that just getting new ones would be the best idea, but I figured I'd ask. save on shipping more parts.

post #19643 of 24765

If they test fine then just reinstall them.  Low power resistors should last a few decades but some are carbon comp and they are very unpredictable.  I do have a couple SRM-1 Mk2's here now for restoration but both are the final production version and not this early one.  Now why would anybody take a perfectly nice PP model and butcher it like this...?  frown.gif

post #19644 of 24765
Quote:
Originally Posted by spritzer View Post

If they test fine then just reinstall them.  Low power resistors should last a few decades but some are carbon comp and they are very unpredictable.  I do have a couple SRM-1 Mk2's here now for restoration but both are the final production version and not this early one.  Now why would anybody take a perfectly nice PP model and butcher it like this...?  frown.gif

 

ok, so I'll replace with the correct values that I have.  It will be easy to tell which ones are new, so I can come back and replace them later if things dont test right.  So far the few resistors i've changed have tested ok.  I'm waiting to see the ones that are totally out of spec.  it will give me a real sense of accomplishment!! lol. 

 

How do I tell if I have carbon composite resistors?

 

I have been amazed at what some local techs do to things.  its a joke really.  Its like car repair.  you cant fix it yourself, so you trust someone who "says" they are a qualified tech.  Most of them spend their lives fixing guitar amps, so they dont give a crap about much else.  using cheap parts and just rigging things up to "work".  This is one of the main reasons I started doing this stuff myself.  I've turned into a very non trusting soul when it comes to tech service... for my car as well.. lol. 

 

man, I should have waited for you to fix one of those units and bought from you!!!!  But I will be proud when this is up and running.  

post #19645 of 24765

I replaced 3 dead AMRG plate resistors last month

 

Tested my t1s(ecc99 mod) yesterday,

one of the amrg 2w 30k  plate resistor died again, the value increased by 10%.

 

Not too long ago I found 4 dead AMRG plate resistors in a SRM600limited 

 

so the AMRG plate resistor mortality rate is 50%? LOL


Edited by pkshan - 10/4/12 at 3:38pm
post #19646 of 24765
Quote:
Originally Posted by Chodi View Post

Did you keep your 007mk2 as well? A bit piggy if you did bigsmile_face.gif

 

I'm gonna keep it for now tongue_smile.gif

 

Quote:

Originally Posted by NamelessPFG View Post

 

Wow, you have one of those now? *reads sig* And a bunch of other sought-after cans like the Orpheus HE/90, at that!

 

Now I'm wondering which of your many headphones you use with the SU-DH1 I pointed you toward a while back...it obviously won't drive 'stats by itself, but you could just use the Dolby Headphone processing aspect of it and feed the output to an amp.

 

Back to the SR-Omega: how's the clamping force compared to the SR-007 (and the SR-009, if you own or have auditioned one before)? The headband/arc looks a lot like the one used for the vintage Lambdas and the Sigmas, which likely means lower clamping force and more comfort.

 

You know, I have two SU-DH1s now and I don't use them. I couldn't make them work with the digital out of my notebooks. Neither with the dig out of SoundBlaster X-fi. They're working on my Tvix 6500 though so the problem isn't them. Maybe it's a windows player thing, I have no idea how to make them stream the right signal through digital outs.

 

My Omega is pretty loose, a bit too much indeed, well more than 007 mk2. It's probably their age as spritzer said and probably different head sizes through the years I'd add. tongue_smile.gif I guess I'm not as a big head as I thought I was... But they are very comfortable.

post #19647 of 24765
Quote:
Originally Posted by madbull View Post

You know, I have two SU-DH1s now and I don't use them. I couldn't make them work with the digital out of my notebooks. Neither with the dig out of SoundBlaster X-fi. They're working on my Tvix 6500 though so the problem isn't them. Maybe it's a windows player thing, I have no idea how to make them stream the right signal through digital outs.

 

My Omega is pretty loose, a bit too much indeed, well more than 007 mk2. It's probably their age as spritzer said and probably different head sizes through the years I'd add. tongue_smile.gif I guess I'm not as a big head as I thought I was... But they are very comfortable.

 

So you won that second one I linked you on eBay after all...nice.

 

As for making them work with your PCs, I think Windows Media Player needs "SPDIF Out" to be the default audio device...but this comes with the pretty severe drawback of "you can't hear anything but DVD audio". If anything, I think it's more practical to just use a media player with built-in Dolby Headphone mixing. PowerDVD and WinDVD both support it, but they're unfortunately not freeware. I wonder if there's a DirectShow Dolby Headphone filter out there for use in something like Media Player Classic...

 

Also, if you want to sell one of those off, there's someone who wants one in the B/S/T section. Just figured I'd let you know.

 

On another note, serious question for you all: is it possible that the human ear's response could develop peaks and notches on its own, and imbalanced from the other ear? I only just noticed that the imbalances I hear around 35 Hz, 5 KHz, and other areas may not be a fault of my headphones...but my own ears. It's kind of distressing in terms of what kind of hearing damage I might have gone through and been completely unaware of until now (aside from my difficulty in hearing frequencies from 15 KHz on up at the young age of 22)...

post #19648 of 24765
Quote:
Originally Posted by NamelessPFG View Post

 

On another note, serious question for you all: is it possible that the human ear's response could develop peaks and notches on its own, and imbalanced from the other ear? I only just noticed that the imbalances I hear around 35 Hz, 5 KHz, and other areas may not be a fault of my headphones...but my own ears. It's kind of distressing in terms of what kind of hearing damage I might have gone through and been completely unaware of until now (aside from my difficulty in hearing frequencies from 15 KHz on up at the young age of 22)...

 

Oh yes, ears can and do develop different "frequency responses" over time. This can be due to hair cell damage from listening to loud sound/music, nerve damage from things like drinking and diabetes, and mechanical problems with the bones and tendons in the middle ear.  The eardrum also hardens over time, limiting high frequency response.  And yes, all these insults accumulate with age and add in differing amounts in each ear resulting in different hearing abilities in ear ear.

 

Typically, however, it's rare that bass or midrange hearing is much changed over time, but the higher in frequency you go the more likely it is that one's ears will have suffered some kind of problem that's affected one ear more than the other.

 

Yous eustachian tubes can also become blocked from sinus trouble, allergy, colds and flu,  injury, low level infection and a host of other issues. The relative resistance to airflow through the eustachian tubes changes the mechanical impedance at your eardrum, and can reduce ability to hear higher frequencies.  Issues with eustachian tubes tend to come and go, sometimes even over a few hours congestion can set in or clear up and so on.  Problems with eustachian tubes almost always affect one ear more than the other at any instant in time, but as the congestion changes so too will hearing.

 

Ears are NOT microphones, the hearing mechanism is much more complex than simple transduction.

post #19649 of 24765

I have a question about my original Lambda SB. On the inner metal-mesh (that touches the ear) of the right earspeaker, there is a hair that has managed to pass through. I'm pretty sure that it is the cause of a small buzzing sound when music gets particularly loud or bassy. I would use a tweezer, but my skinniest one won't work on the very small meshing. How can I remove it without damaging the Lambdas? 

post #19650 of 24765
Quote:
Originally Posted by Keithpgdrb View Post

 

ok, so I'll replace with the correct values that I have.  It will be easy to tell which ones are new, so I can come back and replace them later if things dont test right.  So far the few resistors i've changed have tested ok.  I'm waiting to see the ones that are totally out of spec.  it will give me a real sense of accomplishment!! lol. 

 

How do I tell if I have carbon composite resistors?

 

I have been amazed at what some local techs do to things.  its a joke really.  Its like car repair.  you cant fix it yourself, so you trust someone who "says" they are a qualified tech.  Most of them spend their lives fixing guitar amps, so they dont give a crap about much else.  using cheap parts and just rigging things up to "work".  This is one of the main reasons I started doing this stuff myself.  I've turned into a very non trusting soul when it comes to tech service... for my car as well.. lol. 

 

man, I should have waited for you to fix one of those units and bought from you!!!!  But I will be proud when this is up and running.  

 

No way of knowing which type of resistors it is without breaking it open and looking at the resistive track.  In any of these old Stax amps then all less important resistors were carbon comps so if it's not in the feedback loop then it's carbon. 

 

Almost anything to do with servicing it always a pain and yeah, almost nobody does a proper job. 

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by pkshan View Post

I replaced 3 dead AMRG plate resistors last month

 

Tested my t1s(ecc99 mod) yesterday,

one of the amrg 2w 30k  plate resistor died again, the value increased by 10%.

 

Not too long ago I found 4 dead AMRG plate resistors in a SRM600limited 

 

so the AMRG plate resistor mortality rate is 50%? LOL

 

Not likely and the problem is elsewhere or a bad batch.  You can always go back to the TKD resistors Stax used for 25 years.  

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by juantendo8 View Post

I have a question about my original Lambda SB. On the inner metal-mesh (that touches the ear) of the right earspeaker, there is a hair that has managed to pass through. I'm pretty sure that it is the cause of a small buzzing sound when music gets particularly loud or bassy. I would use a tweezer, but my skinniest one won't work on the very small meshing. How can I remove it without damaging the Lambdas? 

 

The meshing is glued onto the transducer to I would not recommend removing it.  Other than that there isn't much you can do. 

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