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post #46 of 314




From a mid 1970s headphona crapola. Specs? LOL!

more pics:
http://s155.photobucket.com/albums/s...phones%20ever/
post #47 of 314
Quote:
Originally Posted by OI812 View Post

From a mid 1970s headphona crapola. Specs? LOL!

But so sexy!

The DT-9xx drivers pictured above will likely land in the earcups of some Stanton Dynaphase 40's. Big blue badass stantondynamic beyerphases. Or that might suck.
post #48 of 314

KSC35

post #49 of 314
Thread Starter 


The second image has different lighting to show the vents through the back of the plastic driver frame.



driver type - dynamic
from headphone brand and model - Grado SR60
driver diameter - 50 mm
impedance - 32 ohms
post #50 of 314

Look, Ma! No magnets! Or electrostatic fields!

Here is the driver from a Pioneer SE-700 "High Polymer Film" piezoelectric headphone.

This is just a sheet of metalized kynar film. Nothing more, nothing less. Also shown are the 3 layers of foam damping the driver is stretched over.



Sorry for the fuzzy image - if i use the flash it's in focus but the membrane looks black.

I'd show you the other side, but it looks exactly the same (except without mounting foam around the edge)

Impedance: My DMM has no idea whatsoever

Specs from Pioneer:

post #51 of 314
Talk about simplicity! This just cries out for a two-way.

Where's the lead-in attachment point on the film, and how did they do it? Spring-loaded clamps?

And how's the bass?

.
post #52 of 314

Pioneer SE-500

In the SE-700, the film appears to be just glued to the metal frame with a conductive paint.

The frame is a sandwich, positive on one side and negative on the other side. Those two small tabs at the bottom are where the leads connect with screw-down tabs.

The SE-500 driver pictured below is largely the same theory, but encapsulated into a module. Also, the film is a squared-off rectangle instead of a barrel shape, and seems to be glued only on one edge per side.

The light-colored donut around the opening on the front of the driver is my own, an attempt to replace a similar foam donut that was destroyed when i took the driver apart. It's not working out, and I'll probably put a thin ring of yellowtak in it's place.





Specs: similar to SE-700 (but not as good)
post #53 of 314
i have had my ultrasones pulled apart before for cleaning, but i never thought to take any pictures. the ultrasone drivers have a very intricut pattern. and are titanium. if i had a WRKING camera id take the pictures now, but since i dont have a working camera, ill subscribe to this and watch for someone else to post them.
post #54 of 314
I was repairing the voice coil for one of my 2003 era DT-990 drivers tonight when I came across this thread. Some interesting photos in here. Pictures at the end, but first some measurements I made:

Impedance: 248ohm and (repaired one) 239 ohm.
Diameter: 45.0 mm including the plastic shell

I also did some tests on the working driver before making any repairs to see how loud I could drive it until something bad happened. I found I could take it well beyond reasonable hearing levels (the driver was in the open but I suspect it would HURT if music were played that loud). I found that even with bass notes pushing the diaphragm and coil bobbin hard against the rear of the driver housing there was no damage done to the diaphragm, although lots of distortion. In fact, even after I removed the diaphragm from the driver with the broken voice coil, it held its shape after some pretty harsh peeling, sucking, blowing, and manhandling. Impressive. Maybe it has something to do with the strange chaotic surface of the diaphragm.

Another interesting thing I found was that there were some hairs literally fused to the diaphragm. I couldn't rub them off with my finger - I had to pull them out with a pair of tweezers.

Pics:














post #55 of 314
Quote:
Originally Posted by ericj
The SE-500 driver pictured below is largely the same theory, but encapsulated into a module. Also, the film is a squared-off rectangle instead of a barrel shape, and seems to be glued only on one edge per side.
Cool! Thanks for the photos. Boy, they sure went to a lot of trouble on that SE-500 for it to sound so meh. But then, it's fun just to hear it make any wideband sound at all, and to consider the operating principle.
post #56 of 314

backside proline 750 driver

Frontside proline 750 driver, i refuse to remove them to take pictures, they have a good glue seal to the bufferboard that i dont want to break.
post #57 of 314
driver type - dynamic
from headphone brand and model - Sennheiser HD201
driver diameter (or L x W if square shaped) - ~1.1" (~28mm)
driver depth - ?
diaphragm thickness - ?
impedance - 24 ohms
markings on back - 24Ω, 0512

Back:



Front:
post #58 of 314
Signet TK22...






post #59 of 314
K340 Dynamic (green-back) on the left
K340 Electret on the right

post #60 of 314
To celebrate my 500th post I decided to tear into my Edition 9s. Would have happened eventually anyway, curiosity always gets the better of me!

It was surprisingly easy and they are surprisingly simple. For the price I would have thought they might be more... I don't know, complicated, substantial? Nothing wrong with them though, they are well made, solid and everything. I guess most expensive cans are pretty simple when it comes down to it. I remember being shocked when I bought DT-880s and saw them for the first time. "Is that all there is to them!" said I. I thought they were cheap. I learned to appreciate they were actually high quality and now I realize thats just the way things are. The UE9 did impress me on first impressions and have only furthered that impression with time until I opened them and saw they are made the same way as any other headphone. I don't know what I was expecting to find in there, maybe German pixie dust. Anyway it turns out that I'm no less impressed having seen inside them now.

I wasn't concerned about opening the UE9, I'm very careful and know when to stop with these kinds of things. I pull everything apart. Thats how I learn about things. And I'm brave

So, to the pics:


Heres the ear pad about to get pulled off. So to speak







Heres the cloth about to get tweezered up:





Heres the cloth pulled mostly up, exposing the metal plate, it did stick down again just as securely and neatly, you can't see it was touched, just had to line it up carefully:






Heres the metal plate, it was stuck down with contact adhesive, easily tweezered up. I glued it back down afterwards with a touch more contact adhesive:







Heres after the metal plate is removed showing the 3 screw holes, and tape over half the holes in the plastic grill:







3 screws out, and this bit lifts off with the driver glued to it. I saw how easy it would be to recable and starting thinking. I'll keep thinking, see below:






This is the stuff in the ear cup to absorb the reflections off the back of the driver, or reduce resonance, or dampen the enclosure or whatever:






This as much of the face of the driver you can see without going too far and needing to cut the driver out of the housing then glue it back. too hard for me tonight, and more risky. The driver is evidently just a KSC-75 driver anyway :






Heres the back of the driver, showing the glue where it's held into the mounting plate:






And here it is safely back together. They are back on my head now, sounding happily unchanged of course. Taken apart and putting together took me the time between Rocky Raccoon and Birthday on the White album, which was playing through them the entire time, and is a surprisingly poor recording straight after listening to Love:




After seeing the cable inside them, I am considering an upgrade. The cable is fine, I guess it's as good as any stock hi end HP cable, but I hear that there are better cables available for headphones... I would do it myself but don't know what cable to use or if it's worth it. I would stay single ended as my RPX-33 is single ended. We'll see I guess.
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