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Darkvoice just released 332 - Page 114

post #1696 of 1888
Just to add, I also had some hum in my 332, and found out that the reason was it sitting too close to other electrical components, which seemed to interfere with it. You might want to try to move it around and see if that helps.
post #1697 of 1888
The amp is with the engineers, and they confirm the problem. Solving it seems to be another matter!

BT
post #1698 of 1888
Quote:
Originally Posted by BigTony View Post
The amp is with the engineers, and they confirm the problem. Solving it seems to be another matter!

BT
Did they know what cause this problem?
Dead capacitors, grounding or something?
post #1699 of 1888

Yes... I Do...

Quote:
Originally Posted by omegaman View Post
Gradofan its sounds like you are regretting you sale, You may be happier when your new amps arrive !!!!!!
Yes... I do regret selling it - it's a great amp...especially at its price. It compares quite favorably to the SP Extreme. And... like the Woo Audio amps - its "jewel-like" in its construction.

I'd buy a DV3322, but I'm skeptical that it can sound as good - too many changes in the components. The DV332 is proven - it has a certain synergy between its components, which produces a lot of clean power (current and voltage) to drive most phones well, at almost uniform POT settings of 10-11 O'clock - with little variance. And the tubes it uses are also great - not too many to choose from - but, you don't need any more - they're great.

As far as hum in the DV332 - the only hum I ever encountered was a ground loop - which I quickly eliminated by using 3-2 prong cheater plugs on my CDP, or DV332, or both. That eliminates any hum from that source.
post #1700 of 1888
To those still wanting one DV 332, heres an opportunity:

Quote:
Darkvoice will produce more 50 pcs DV 332 for AudiophileChina.They will be available soon.
http://www.audiophilechina.com/cp-sh..._id2=2&s_id=25
post #1701 of 1888
There you go Gradofan a chance to buy one back !!!!!!!!!!!!!
post #1702 of 1888
I do get some ground loop hum with the DV332, but it's barely noticeable with the volume pot at 10-11 o'clock, and disappears when I'm actually playing music. If I turn it up to 1-2 o'clock position, then the ground hum really becomes apparent (but I'd be going deaf shortly if I had my HD650's playing at that volume level anyway).

As for getting rid of the ground hum, it's not as easy or affordable here in Canada, with cheater plugs being illegal and unobtainable. Ground loop isolators are pretty expensive, as are plugs that filter out ground noise. I suppose I could always just manually break off the ground plug with pliers, but I fear what would happen if I did that.
post #1703 of 1888
As an electrician I would never recomend cheater plugs or disconnecting the earth cable. The earth is there for your saety. 9 times out of 10 the hum is from a nearby piece of equipment. I used to have trouble from a dimmer switch until I sorted it out.
post #1704 of 1888
We have to face it. Many report hum with this amp. I think a solution may be to fit attenuation before the output to phones. I expect this may be simple for an expert.
post #1705 of 1888
No hum whatsoever here, if the one tube, which could cause some hum, sits correctly. The sockets are a bit loose on this amp.
post #1706 of 1888
Quote:
Originally Posted by omegaman View Post
As an electrician I would never recomend cheater plugs or disconnecting the earth cable. The earth is there for your saety. 9 times out of 10 the hum is from a nearby piece of equipment. I used to have trouble from a dimmer switch until I sorted it out.
I'm a bit weary of using cheaters myself and thankfully after a little fussing with the configuration of gear sharing the same powerstrips I don't have any ground loop issues.

One point that I've seen brought up before about using cheaters and several pieces of audio gear together is that it's ok as long as one of the components is grounded, since they are linked together with grounded interconnects thus the ungrounded are in a sense "grounded" through the single grounded component. Seems to make a little sense to me.

As an electrician, can you offer any insight on this?
post #1707 of 1888
So I've been trying to take out this stock 6J1 tube for like half an hour now, and for the life of me, the tube will not come out. Rolled the other 6J1 tube out in a few minutes, but this one just will. not. come. out. Any suggestions?
post #1708 of 1888

You Might Try...

You might try some WD40. Just insert the little red tube in the spray nozel and direct it down to each pin and tap it lightly. It would likely lubricate the pins enough to ease the tube free.

Or... a silicon spray lubricant would be good also.

I'd avoid overspray on the socket nuts - the lubricant could eventually lead the nuts to loosen on their mounting bolts, allowing the sockets to loosen a bit.
post #1709 of 1888
Thanks alot!

For now, I've decided to put the stock tubes back in... but am having a bit of trouble with that as well. How much force are you supposed to put on the tube to make it securly stay in the socket? I push the tube firmly in to the socket, and still, a small tug up will cause the tube to become detached. If I push the tube harder in, I'm afraid it will break.
post #1710 of 1888

As long as they're...

As long as they're touching metal socket contacts securely - they should be OK.

Also... you can "gently, carefully" bend the tube pins to fit better in the sockets. You can tell if they're out of alignment by looking at them closely - and then just gently bend them into alignment. But, be careful not to press them so firmly you break the glass around their bass.

You can also bend the pins out a bit to tighten the fit. Sometimes that's helpful to eliminate hum / hiss in the tubes - which can result from poor contact.

By the way... WD40... is a pretty good cleaner to clean oxidation and dirt off tube pins. Just use it and an old tooth brush, and a paper towel.
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